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Discussion Starter #1
So, after reading this forum (and others ;) I am planning to put a duel
fuel filter set up in my truck ('03 GMC CC LB7). My initial plan was to
put the filter as a primary in the alternator spot, but decided not to
because I didn't want to hassle with taking it on/off if I ever had to
bring it in, so I decided to put in on the frame underneath. I bought
the NAPA filter head, but kept on reading the forums and researching
the different parts that can be used. Then I started thinking about
the priming of the filter and how I could easily do that with a frame
mounted set up. I saw the article about placing a tire valve stem on
the gas cap but didn't like that idea. I heard about priming it with
the factory primer in the engine compartment, but I read somewhere
about it taking a lot of pumps. I thought about putting a shutoff
valve on the Out port, adding a bleeder, closing the valve and using
cranking the engine to prime it, but I still looked to see if there was
an easier way. So, I saw the Racor filter heads with the primer pump
on it and thought that is the cleanest way to go. I know their stuff
is more expensive, but I thought I would go to the local boat store
to see just how much. Well, just my luck they had the 490R filter
base and a 2 micron R90s combo on sale...75% off. So, I did a little
more research to see if I could get filters for that base that is more
in line with the price of the CAT 1R-0750 and there was; BaldwinF7633.
I bought the set up (only $35) and plan to install it soon. Any thing
else I should be aware of when installing?
 

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Hey rey, when you cut the fuel line, fuel is gonna drain out pretty fast. So you'd better have a coupld of plugs ready to cap it off. I wouldn't worry too much about priming the aux. filter. Gravity will fill it up just fine.
 

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duel fuel filter install

reyb,
i installed a secondary caterpillar fuel filter on my neibhors 03 dmax, he does not have an additional pump and he said he has never had and problems with it!! but if you want to install an additional fuel pump i guess it wouldent hurt.. unless it quit.. and starved your fuel system:eek: . but i guess with a simple gauge installation, that can be prevented?:cool: but if you click on my name, then my home page, then the cat pictures, you can see how i mounted his by the fuel tank, i put one shut-off valve on the inlet side, but looking back i would put one on each side. this filter can be gravity bled by the small plug on top of the housing. i used copper line but some people said that they wouldent, thats up to you!! AGAIN-- my neibhor has NO problem with his, he uses it to pull his skid steer trailer. but to each his own. i am DEFFINATLEY (sp?) putting this same set up on my truck when i get it ( i may use stainless fuel lines though ). anyways its not a bad idea to install an additional filter ( especially with how fickle these trucks are about clean fuel).till then keep on truckin!! :ro) kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #5
txguppy:

Thanks for the tip about spillage. I'll be ready. Hmmm, gravity primed. I guess
that is an option too...

tenny:

Thanks for the input as well. I clicked on your name, but there wasn't a
home page to go to. I'm thinking I saw your installation(copper pipes) at
another website...similar story...installed for a neighbor...hand bent copper
pipes...you work at CAT, right? :)


Definitely a lot of info to digest and many ways to do things. I suppose I'll
keep the Racor only because it was cheap, has a primer pump and a filter
already. Although, it does take a decent size(diameter) filter, but I'm
assuming the 1R-0750 is the same diameter because it is cross referenced
to it.
 

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The way that I primed mine for the first time (Racor) was just start the truck and let it run till it stalls. Then I pumped the factory primer until I got fuel out. Started it and let it run. It took about 50 pumps, but that was from the install of the kit. The truck was on an incline, so I think the fuel lines were drained more than normal. It wasn't all that bad. Although, sounds like you found an excellent deal on the head with the primer on it. I have also hear of people just filling their secondary filter with fuel and just starting up the truck. You might have to prime it a little, but not very much compared to a dry filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, I heard about just letting the engine run until it dies, prime again, die again...etc etc, but I was shooting the cleanest way to do the install. An
installation that GM would call me up to get information about. :) I also
heard about filling up the filter prior to installation, but read somewhere that
the fuel is unfiltered. This was true and granted it's only a small amount of
fuel and the secondary filter would've filtered it anyways. Once I get done,
I'll take pics and share. :)
 

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QUOTE: My initial plan was to put the filter as a primary in the alternator spot, but decided not to because I didn't want to hassle with taking it on/off if I ever had to bring it in, so I decided to put in on the frame underneath. UNQUOTE...

I don't quite understand something here re your statement above. MY RACOR 445R R90S is mounted under the hood in the second alternator position and I've never had an issue when I've had to take my truck in for warranty work. In fact I was told by the Service Manager that it was a great idea to have secondary filtration and he said he wished more would do the same. He said it would stem alot of fuel system snags. Why would you want to remove it and why do you think they would notice it less if it was frame mounted?? Did I miss something here??
A few things to remember, the under the hood installation, at the second alternator, position does not require any fuel line splicing or fuel heater option as does the frame mounted installations. It's way handier when changing the element, servicing, water draining, priming etc. Good luck..................SWH...:confused:

 

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Yeah, I heard about just letting the engine run until it dies, prime again, die again...etc etc, but I was shooting the cleanest way to do the install. An
installation that GM would call me up to get information about. :) I also
heard about filling up the filter prior to installation, but read somewhere that
the fuel is unfiltered. This was true and granted it's only a small amount of
fuel and the secondary filter would've filtered it anyways. Once I get done,
I'll take pics and share. :)
Installed my Nicktane system today. Filled the filter before screwing it on to the mount. Started her up...... no priming needed. Runs great. BTW, the quart of fuel in the filter does get filtered......by the OEM filter up front.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, let me say this. I originally was going to do the alternator mount and
have the filter as the secondary filter because I felt it makes sense to have
the 2 Micron filter the last filter; assuming that the OEM filter is > 2 Microns.
However, I read about the recycling of fuel and it seemed to lessen the need
to have the 2 Micron filter last. The alternator mount is cool looking, but it
is more of an intrusive installation (IMO). You have an understanding service
manager, but that is not always the case. Having the filter on the frame, IMO,
leaves the factory set up just like that...factory. As I said, there are many
ways to do the install and your post (and your pic!)is having me rethink the
install...again!! :) I think it was your installation that I saw that prompted
me to find a filter head with a primer pump. Btw, have you thought about
trying the lesser priced filters like the BF7633? Also, I get the impression
that the CAT IR-0750 will fit too??
 

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I have the Kennedy Diesel auxillary filter plumbed as a secondary filter. It made zero sence to me to install it as a primary although I know guys out there do it. It just seems like common sence to install the coarser (factory) filter first and the finer filter downstream. The filter mounts directly under the airbox, and the bleed screw is easily accesable with a long screwdriver. The filter can be swapped out from underneath without any problem. It doesn't chage the factory look, except for the intercepted and re-routed fule line.

I also installed the Kennedy lift pump with the harness kit. There is a button on the controller to pump fuel when you want to bleed the system, and the circutry turns off the pump when the engine is not running, even if the key is on. To do this the kit includes a oil pressure sending switch whick is easily mounted in the oil filter housing.

I have noticed that my '01 EC has been idling much more smoothly since the lift pump is in. Bleeding the system was a snap.

JK's system is really well engineered and straight foward to install. I am extremely pleased with it so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've heard good things about the various products out there. I believe the
comment of "You can't go wrong with either one" is true. I agree that if
the 2 Micron filter is before the OEM (>2 Micron?), then it makes sense that
the first filter will plug up early. But, the benefit that I see from this is that
the OEM filter can be changed at a later period. For me, I would rather
change the OEM filter the least because it's a little pain to change. It seems
that regardless of the filter positions, in the end, the fuel gets filtered
around the 2 Micron level. I wonder though how many times the fuel gets
recycled to the tank. That would be an interesting data point I think. Man,
I'm leaning towards SWH's install. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
SWH,

What was your reasoning to install your Racor filter as the primary filter(i.e. pre-OEM)?
 

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i would want the the more expensive of the two filters last so the cheaper one gets clogged and not the expensive one but that is IMO
 

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Well, let me say this. I originally was going to do the alternator mount and
have the filter as the secondary filter because I felt it makes sense to have
the 2 Micron filter the last filter; assuming that the OEM filter is > 2 Microns.
However, I read about the recycling of fuel and it seemed to lessen the need
to have the 2 Micron filter last. The alternator mount is cool looking, but it
is more of an intrusive installation (IMO). You have an understanding service
manager, but that is not always the case. Having the filter on the frame, IMO,
leaves the factory set up just like that...factory. As I said, there are many
ways to do the install and your post (and your pic!)is having me rethink the
install...again!! :) I think it was your installation that I saw that prompted
me to find a filter head with a primer pump. Btw, have you thought about
trying the lesser priced filters like the BF7633? Also, I get the impression
that the CAT IR-0750 will fit too??
At the time of my installation the agreement I had with GM was that I was to install my RACOR pre-OEM due to warranty issues. This filter is installed between the outlet port of the FICM(fuel injection control module) and the inlet port of the OEM filter so no splicing is required, unlike the frame mounted models. My RACOR elements cost me $32.00 CAD each at a medium truck sales and service center near my residence. My OEM element at the same place is $35.00 CAD. Not bad prices at all and I feel RACOR makes the best fuel filters going, IMHO. The biggest advabtage I have with my installation is I don't have crawl under the truck to change the element or to service the seperator. This really works well for me as I hate crawling under the truck when there is no need................SWH...
 

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I went pre CAT using two ball valves to isolate duing changes. I too prefill my filters and don't need to bleed. The nice thing is if I get bad fuel and the cat plugs it's a quick roadside change even if you have to prime it. I'd hate to change an oem roadside. I ran my oem 35K once prefiltered and it looked better than with out at 10K.

Two hints:
NAPA has a shorty ratchet tubing cutter. It looks real slick. I used a std one and took a diesel bath by the time I got the line cut.

I keep a spare cat filter and strap wrench behind the seat. The last time I put it on too tight and the strap would slip. Carry a piece of fine sandpaper. Just enough gription under the strap to break it loose.
 

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I have the Kennedy Diesel auxillary filter plumbed as a secondary filter. It made zero sence to me to install it as a primary although I know guys out there do it. It just seems like common sence to install the coarser (factory) filter first and the finer filter downstream. The filter mounts directly under the airbox, and the bleed screw is easily accesable with a long screwdriver. The filter can be swapped out from underneath without any problem. It doesn't chage the factory look, except for the intercepted and re-routed fule line.

I also installed the Kennedy lift pump with the harness kit. There is a button on the controller to pump fuel when you want to bleed the system, and the circutry turns off the pump when the engine is not running, even if the key is on. To do this the kit includes a oil pressure sending switch whick is easily mounted in the oil filter housing.

I have noticed that my '01 EC has been idling much more smoothly since the lift pump is in. Bleeding the system was a snap.

JK's system is really well engineered and straight foward to install. I am extremely pleased with it so far.
Good points. I use the Nicktane. To me, it makes perfect sense to have the 2 micron CAT filter installed in the PRE OEM position. After all, the CAT filter is $17 and easy to change. The OEM is more expensive and harder to change, therefore having the CAT filter in the #1 position seems more logical to me.
 

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I have the Racor pre-OEM on the framerail and waited until I was below a 1/4 tank of fuel. Only fuel spill was what was in the line. Then, just filled the filter with diesel and no problems.
JP
 

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We have quite a few Cat powered generators at work. Most have a single 1R0750 on them. Some have a water seperator ahead of the 750.

My installation is ahead of the wheel well on the tank side. Only a little bit of fuel leaks out during changes. I fill the 1R0750 or 749 up before screwing it on. Truck never even burps when it starts up for the first time.
 

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I can understand the warrenty issue, and also the pricing reason to go pre-OEM on the secondary filter. Neither one will change my mind, but I can certainly understand the reasoning. I do believe that is exactly why heinz makes 57 varieties!

That being said, it is standard engineering practice to reduce the particulate rating of each subsequent filter mounted in series. In theory, a >10 Micron filter installed after a >2 micron filter does absolutly nothing unless the >2 filter fails. The theory is, after exiting the >2 micron filter, minimal particles over 2 microns will remain to be filtered by the second filter. The >2 filter will clog before it should, and in theory, the >10 filter will never clog. What happens in reality seldom follows theory exactly, but I guarantee installing them contrary to accepted engineering practice will result in accelerated failure of the >2 fillter, and unneccessary changing of the >10 filter. The situation will be exasperated tremendously should you get fuel that is unaccepedly dirty to begin with.

For these reasons, I will always place and recommend that the the finer filter be installed after the OEM.
 
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