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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know of a company that provides an aftermarket kit for driveshaft E-brakes. GM installed these on 3500HD trucks(15,000GVW) If anyone has ever used them before they are top knotch. Nice tight grip....never need adjustment..wont cause heat cracks on rear drums etc. If I get a new truck the next few months Im going to spend a week setting it up, I know if you dont do something to your truck the second you get it..it never happens.


My roll off trucks are subject to alot of e brake use, at every residential garbage stop we pick up. Ive noticed that the E brakes on our new trucks lose their grip and need adjustment 2X/year... If thats the case with my trailer queen truck...my roll-off truck will need adjustment every month.
 

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Bill


Now that sounds like a great idea.I had to have mine adjusted in the first six months under warranty, the flat rate charge to GM was I think 1.7 hrs.That is well over a hundred dollars every 6 months if you have to pay.I use mine a lot due to the 6 speed and could be loaded 16,000 gvw plus, a lot of weight to hold.I also wonder if they are any good and how much.By the way Bill remember the belt for the Muncie pump that was only to be had from Muncie for triple what it should be worth.Well 20,000 kms first one went 37,000 second one gone.Checked with Dayco,Gates no can get
talked to 3 people at Muncie and finally found that a 8 rib Ford belt will work if you remove 2 ribs, that is what I am using now, see how long that lasts 1/4 the price of Muncie belt.Sorry to get off topic but your question made me think you were still going to use a clutch pump on your new Dmax.If you are you better call me first or anyone else for that matter thinking of a clutch pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Brian, I finally saw in person a setup in our trucks on Friday. Im at the point where my truck is in the perfect spot to be a reliable spare, but isnt too far gone


This setup ran a Commercial Intertech pump that put out over 4,000 psi at 4GPM I dont need that aggressive I only need 3,000 psi which may contribute to longer belt life. The setup looked really good. But Im waiting for you to provide me with bad info to totally ruin my high on another possibility of getting a new truck.


They were also in the process of putting an Alli mounted pump on another Dmax, But I have to be able to crawl like 1 foot every 3 seconds while lifting containers on...which kills the Alli mounted pto in my app. Let me know what other issues you are having


PS Isnt the belt of the pump a six rib already? What benefit besides price is running the Ford belt? Did you check with Goodyear on a GatorBack Belt they are IMHO the BEST. Just tell them how long/wide the belt is.


Hope to hear from ya... Bill
 

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Bill


The belt is 138 inches or 3505 mm made special order from Dayco,not available from Dayco, only Muncie.Dayco belts are suspect quality at the best of times IMO and this might be the problem on my Truck.What seems to happen is when cold you get a belt squeel(for lack of better word) that gets worst as time goes on until it is there all the time.After much research have found that what is maybe happening is the cord inside of the ribs is coming loose and when cold is making a noise.The reason it goes away when it warms up is the heat from the belt makes the cord a little tighter in the rubber and noise is gone until finally it is so loose it makes the noise all the time.Tried Gates belts they do not make a belt the right size in 6 or 8 rib so no answer there.Do to the construction of the belt it is possible to remove 2 ribs without damaging the belt so I am told and seems to work.The reason that I used the Ford belt is for two reasons 1) price is $40.00, Muncie $128.00 cdn, have to change every 6 months 2)maybe it is not a Dayco belt and will last longer, maybe forever ha ha.Also the bracket that is used to hold the pump on the motor has only two bolts that hold it in place and are at the very front of the pump and allow it to vibrate a little.I had a constant vibration at 800 to 850 rpm since Truck was new thought it was everything downpipe bracket,exhaust,etc.One day while looking at the pump moving, stuck a wedge between back of pump and rad hose connection on top of motor and vibration gone
Pissed me off poor design had that vibration for 6 months driving me crazy.By the way Muncie says that they have no problems with this setup but when you get the kit it comes with 2 belts, I wonder if it is because they are nice people or for $700.00 for the install kit which is a couple of small metal brackets and a belt they thought they were making too much money.If after all this and you want to install a Muncie pump call first and I can get you the measurements off my brackets and tell you the size of belt and save you about $650.00
Now all that being said the system works great,very fast up at low rpms, never use the high idle switch.If I was to do it again I would check with someone who has another (non Muncie ) setup and see how it works.At this time I would buy another if there was no other but I have I think most of the bugs out.You asked and you recieved Bill, this is the short version trust me.Want the long version call on 5 cents a minute
Have a good day buddy
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Figures, I did see one setup made by CW Mills Brian thats showed in the drawing at least, a plate mounted underneath the AC Compressor so 4 bolts their, and the two bolts that would hold the second alternator also. The setup I saw must have been identical to yours. Did you try checking with Goodyear at all


PS I used my brothers 3500HD for work tonight, the driveshaft e-brake man, I just got to find a setup, its the only way to do it. No hard pressure to stop the truck from rolling, no creeping on me.


Bill
 

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Are you only having to hold the brakes while the driver is in the cab? How about a "line-Lock" like the drag racers use? A hydraulic solenoid valve to hold pressure on the brakes. Step on the pedal and flip the switch to hold the pressure on the brakes. I’d put one on both front and rear feeds from the m/c. I’m not sure of the bleed off time. I wouldn’t want to risk holding it if the driver gets out of the truck without testing it thoroughly. Edited by: Professor
 

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In my case it would be driver in or out.I have to get out and look a lot of times before I dump and with the 6 speed it's use the e brake or shut it off every time.Maybe Bill is different setup as he will have the auto, I think.Still might be a answer though will have to do a little research, good thinking Edited by: nobull1
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nah what I do with my 98 Cab and Chassis Is leave it in gear and just slam on the e brake. Or if im pointed down hill, I leave it in reverse with the ebrake on
Just that the engagement of the dshaft ebrake is so easy on my knees, and works so well, I have to have one.


I think Professor, the setup that I will only be offered to run is kind of what you are talking about, but used on wreckers and such, But it needs to be mounted in a spot for easy engagement/dis. And has to be reliable(no creeping) I dont want a $50K truck going ghost rider on me.


Im kind of a messed up prankster, we all just use the ebrake to hold our trucks... sometimes when my dads not in his truck or looking, Ill jump in it and start crawling away from him ...Its pretty funny watching him run....


Bill
 
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