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Discussion Starter #21
Definitely on right track. I can actually get truck to stall as well as stumble as well as run smoothly just by manipulating the two wires feeding the male side of the ESO. Also, the only code is 13.

Can't really tell if is the actual wiring or the male connector so just going to do this once and make a new universal connection harness (eliminate the grey GM plastic) on both sides of ESO and replace as much of the wire I can to the firewall with 16 gauge.
I am beginning to see a light at the end of the tunnel.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Looks like my issue is solved. Was able to get into engine harness loom during lower intake gasket install and found the wires that led to my problems.

First problem was both an orange wire and green wire that leads to Engine Shutoff Solenoid. That orange wire branches off and connects into a 4-pin black male connector that connects to a white or gray female connector that leads to the injection pump PMD wiring. (the one actually wired to the IP and comes with new pump). Mine was a series of problems in that chain. I am guessing the heat and the number of times I have had to plug and unplug them during repairs took its toll.

I replaced the Engine Shutoff Solenoid connector with a Dorman 2 pin universal pigtail connector (even comes with the yellow weathertight bushing between the male and female sides), I then ended up having to replace the 4 pin black male connector as wiggling it would cause stalling. Snipped both male/female out and used butt connectors until I can grab the four pin Dorman on way home from work today. More wiggling and wire pulling and cannot get engine to stumble or stall.

Reassembled and then had problem with the female side of the pump mounted PMD connector. Truck would not start. . Pushed wires in from behind connector (the rubber seal where actual wire enters back of connector) and was able to get truck started at both orig and extension harness location. Wiggling would stall truck out so replaced that harness as well with some weathertight male/female connectors now connected directly to my extension.harness. I also put some males on the orig harness so I can plug back into location if I need to put PMD at orig location for testing. I have a couple of the orig harness connectors but never really liked fighting the pins to line up, so good riddance.

Everything all weathertight and heatshrinked. So now can wiggle and pull and shake wires like crazy and truck remains running. No probs on way to work, no stumbling, no misses. Only good thing is if I did not have this elec prob, I prob would not have known my new IP was leaking at the Optical Sensor.

Thanks again guys for all the help and I am sure not last time I will need to seek your advice. Thanks also to the member for offering the engine harness but I had already started repairing the wiring and really wanted to narrow down the culprit rather than replace the entire harness (which def would have been easier) but now I have fewer suspect connections and are at least located in easier spots to diagnose. Appreciate all the help on this one,
 
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Glad your issue is resolved. Thanks for giving us an update!

(y)
 

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Glad to hear it.

Just make sure the PMD is on a heatsink.
 
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