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Does Dexcool do this?

961 Views 30 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  biotec
Step one in putting in my new all aluminium radiator is obviously removing the current rad, hence removing all lines. Upon removing the heater core return line I saw the following. You can see the radiator line has had to be cut due to the seized nut. Ignore that. My question is about the dex-cool residue. I've seen this also in my expansion tank. It looks as though everything has been internally coated in brown paint. I'm thinking that the guts of the radiator, all my hoses and even the water passages of the block look similar(?). It may not look like it but I've been running with green coolant for about 20k miles with plenty of overheating cycles (i.e. lot's of opportunities for this stuff to get cleaned off and mixed with the green). Questions:

1) Is this normal for dex-cool or does this mean it was left sitting for an extended period?
2) Would a coating of this inside my radiator inhibit heat transfer?
3) How can I get all of this residue out of my coolant passages?

:
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You can do a complete flush using some Cascade dish detergent powder: Engine coolant flush
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Looks like what happens when you run with a blown head gasket for a long time. Combustion gasses cause a chemical reaction with Dexcool causing it to gel and discolor.
Also mixing dex cool with old green coolant will cause gelling and discolor. OAT coolants like Dex and old Glycol base coolants are incompatible.
Most artists know Green and Red=Brown.
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The muddying of the dex cool is because of the stop leak tablets GM used at the factory. It could also be because of a blown HG but I had the same thing happen to a ‘96 LT1 and it is impossible to have oil leak into the Head Gasket.
Thanks. I also think it's the clay tablets. If it's through the block I don't think that stuff is ever coming out. If it stays where it is and doesn't inhibit heat transfer I'll just carry on.

I back flushed the heater core and saw this (bear in mind I've been running green coolant for a considerable amount of time). I don't quite know what to make of it:
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Why not run the proper dex?
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Because I mistook the brown residue that is probably from the clay tablets with the widely reported tendency for dex cool to turn to sludge under some circumstances.
By way of an update ...

I installed my new radiator after flushing everything the best I could. I have then filled and flushed after driving a couple of times. The fluid draining from the radiator looks as I expected - clearish with green tinge. After the last drain I removed the surge tank that heavily coated in brown stuff (probably clay residue) in order to put a new one in its place. I was quite surprised when the removed surge tank puked a load of very brown gunk all over my jeans. I managed to capture some and take a photo to contrast it to the fluid that came from the radiator drain. Important to note in the attached photo that the radiator fluid in the drain pan is discoloured due to other various auto slime that was already in there. It was actually clear with a green tinge.

I'm puzzled as to how the gross gunk in both the heater core lines and the surge tank has not managed to mix with the bulk of the radiator fluid with all of the draining, filling and driving that I've been doing? Is it possible that my water pump is not working effectively?
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I'm puzzled as to how the gross gunk in both the heater core lines and the surge tank has not managed to mix with the bulk of the radiator fluid with all of the draining, filling and driving that I've been doing? Is it possible that my water pump is not working effectively?
That's probably the first time the cooling system has had that kind of attention in who knows how many years. I would just chalk it up to a build-up that you were able to find and get rid of (Casting sand, manufacturer leftover metal bits from assembly at the factory left to stew with time, etc)

I would just monitor it from here on out and see what you get 6 months to a year from now
I agree. I had similar results and would not pay it too much mind
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I am anal about the cooling system…

citric flush needed, radiator clean, heater core clean, high flow water pump, clean stack…
Found this today helping my employee with his 92...
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Woah. I'm not in that realm. I've got a brand new radiator, new condenser, all cleaned out, flushed coolant (many times), flushed heater core, new fan clutch, low km military takeout block (supposedly), reman injector pump. Persistent very high temps triggered by towing an empty trailer up a steady gradient for 3 minutes.

Yes, I need to improve the airflow through the bumper but it just feels like the problem is bigger than that.

To add some woe: I installed the fan today without the shroud (I needed the car and couldn't get it back on in time) and the fan nicked a hole in my lower radiator hose. Admittedly, in my case the lower rad hose has to negotiate the steering box en route to the water pump. I'll have to check with the one person I know who has this vehicle on what theirs looks like. I'm guessing the person who did the engine did this hose with no regard to how close to the fan it was.
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3
By way of an update ...

I installed my new radiator after flushing everything the best I could. I have then filled and flushed after driving a couple of times. The fluid draining from the radiator looks as I expected - clearish with green tinge. After the last drain I removed the surge tank that heavily coated in brown stuff (probably clay residue) in order to put a new one in its place. I was quite surprised when the removed surge tank puked a load of very brown gunk all over my jeans. I managed to capture some and take a photo to contrast it to the fluid that came from the radiator drain. Important to note in the attached photo that the radiator fluid in the drain pan is discoloured due to other various auto slime that was already in there. It was actually clear with a green tinge.

I'm puzzled as to how the gross gunk in both the heater core lines and the surge tank has not managed to mix with the bulk of the radiator fluid with all of the draining, filling and driving that I've been doing? Is it possible that my water pump is not working effectively? View attachment 659078
That brown does look like what dexcool can do when there's air getting into the cooling system.

I read extensively on the issues years ago. What I walked away with was that Dexcool is just fine so long as the system is sound and you don't mix in other coolants. If not and if left long enough it will go brown and then brown sludge, mostly from air mixing in.




Could be indicating there was an issue with your system and the dexcool that never completely came out is "letting you know".

My dexcooled LBZ is red and very liquidy and I always check it to make sure it stays that way. I've never mixed in anything else. When I flush I only ever get bits of paint and sand.
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Thanks. I also think it's the clay tablets. If it's through the block I don't think that stuff is ever coming out. If it stays where it is and doesn't inhibit heat transfer I'll just carry on.

I back flushed the heater core and saw this (bear in mind I've been running green coolant for a considerable amount of time). I don't quite know what to make of it: View attachment 659064
Cascade-powered automatic dishwasher cleaner works great. It is a base and will clean your internal cooling system. I've used it on friends' trucks and vans. You may have to flush several times. I'd use 1 cup of cascade to your radiator with water, not coolant. If the engine not running then buy an "OTC 6043 Blast-Vac Multipurpose Cleaning Gun" which works great.
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Since I have a ton of Mercedes diesels, I use zerex G05 in all my cooling systems...
I've never seen any sludge from it.
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DexCool does sludge if not replaced regularly. Supposedly DexCool delays or stops water boiling. That’s what I read years back. Many flush their cooling systems of DexCool and install green coolant and change it every two years or as often you want.
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I've seen proper formulated dexcool/de-ionized water mix run for 20 yrs and look fine. There was a bad formulation of dexcool years ago but it didn't seem to affect the GMT400 truck plants like other models.
Have also seen green coolant do what yours is doing 30+ yrs ago.
Biggest no-no is adding well water.
You are going to have a hard time cleaning that system now. The block/heads are loaded with sludge now. Wouldn't be surprised if you start getting freeze plugs rusting through now too.

Flush as best as you can, then follow up with a professional flush/cleaners and add a inline filter going to the heater cored and send it. Time will tell what components have been affected.
JMO.
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Thanks for the input everyone. The block is a (supposedly) low km military takeout and so I don't think it was subject to the sludging that occurred in this cooling system. With the new rad, expansion tank and flushed heater core I think I've come to the end of seeing any brown coming out.
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