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Discussion Starter #1
I am trying to remove a 2001 DMF, this is the factory flywheel, my problem is the 8 bolts holding on the flywheel on are so tight that I am unable to break them loose, does anyone have any suggestions.
 

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Well, put a bolta chain between a bellhousing bolt hole and a pressure plate mounting hole to keep the engie from turning, the usea 24" braker bar an a long pipe. Worked good for me.
 

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Last night I had a bar and cheater on it like you suggested, but I just did not have enough in me to turn it, do you know it any type of thread locker was used on them. I had a bar stuck in to hold the wheel, but your idea of a chain sounds good.
 

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So is the issue you are unable to break them loose? They are torqued at 160ftlbs from the factory so they are very tight! I have always been able to break them with a breaker bar and a cheater pipe. Another issue is if the outer DMF is misaligned with the inner which will cause the outter edge of the bolts to drag against the outer DMF. If this is the case you will need to insert bolts into the pp holes and use a bar to rotate the outer DMF which will align the holes. GM has a tool which bolts into the starter location which contacts the flywheel and eliminates movement.
 

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Last night I had a bar and cheater on it like you suggested, but I just did not have enough in me to turn it, do you know it any type of thread locker was used on them. I had a bar stuck in to hold the wheel, but your idea of a chain sounds good.
I know:eek:

Time to start doin' some weight liftin' :muahaha:

If you can get someone to hold the gearring steady and get a breaker and cheater aligned correctly you can put you foot on inside of the driver's tire and pull it towards you. May depend on how you got it jacked up.

alternative, go find a big buddy :frankenst
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry for the late reply,
I did get the bolts out, the problem was that I just did not have enough strength in me to turn them, I was concerned about using a cheater too long and causing other problems,

Would anyone know is GM has solved the flywheel problems they have been having, I am considering trading, but I do not want this problem again from a new pickup.
 

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It took three guys to get the bolt out of mine:eek: one to hold the gearringwith a Snap on flywheel wrench, one to turn the front plate of the flywheel with a 3' prybar on two long bolts in the pp bolt holes and one to break loose and run the bolt out after we got the holes lined up!

Later,
Caleb
 

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Sorry for the late reply,
I did get the bolts out, the problem was that I just did not have enough strength in me to turn them, I was concerned about using a cheater too long and causing other problems,

Would anyone know is GM has solved the flywheel problems they have been having, I am considering trading, but I do not want this problem again from a new pickup.

Go with the kit from SBC, or the kit crankitupdiesel.com has.(CP MACS) Either way, you can't go wrong as long as you get a SMF!!!:ro)
 

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The bolts are torqued much tighter than 160 ft lbs from the factory. The spec is 59 ft lbs the 60degrees then another 60 degrees.
 

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Why in the world do they torque them so tight when we're told to just torque them to 150 ft lbs when we reinstall them?
 

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My install instructions include the 59 ft lbs, 60*, 60* (service manual directions) but most tq ratchets most guys have only go up to about 160* and it is pretty difficult to push it up higher. Once on and heated the next times I have removed them they were a lot higher tq that 160*. More important to ensure each bolt is tight and turned in the exact same amount.
 
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