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Has anybody done a writeup on changing LB7 injectors? I did a search, but didn't come up with much. I just want to educate myself in case I ever have to change them.
Thanks
Thanks
Odds are on the passenger side........even's on the driver's side starting from the front of the truck.afp1;1620765; said:I need to replace my #4 Injector. Which bank is that on and how are the cylinders numbered on the DMax?
All of the performance injectors are stock Bosch with custom nozzles. The stock injectors are good to about 600 hp, so unless you are going wild, you only need stock remans. All of the injectors being sold and installed by GM are remans. Dealer price was $350 each, I bought mine locally for $200. The local shop had new Bosch injectors for $350 each. (All plus core charges.) I haven't heard of any warranty on any of the injectors. The guy at the local shop did say that 90+ percent of the LB7 injectors they got were rebuildable. He also said that less than 20 percent of the Dodge injectors were rebuildable.01LTLB7;1623711; said:What kind of Injectors are you guys using as replacements? GM, offbrand, or high performance? What kind of waranty to they come with?
Im on the third set of injectors in my LB7, hopefully I wont have to change anytime soon.
Thanks much for the info. Hopefully I won't need to do this anytime soon, but i saved your file just in case.boondokr;1620754; said:The LB7's are very different from the LLY's in the link above. The injectors in the LB7 are under the valve covers. To remove them on the driver's side you will have to drain the cooling system (which sucks because you pull a plug instead of opening a valve and it goes EVERYWHERE.) You will also need the fuel line disconnect tools. Disconnect all the wiring in the way. Pull the serpentine belt and unbolt the A/C compressor and set aside. Use a 19 mm flare nut wrench to pull the injector lines. Now you can use a 5mm allen wrench to pull the bolts for the upper valve cover. I recommend a quality ball-driver Tee handle for removal and hand tightening. You will need a socket for your torque wrench for assembly. Once the upper valve cover is off, remove the injector harnesses and use that 5mm Tee handle to pull the lower valve cover. Remove the return line and the hold-down bolts for the injectors you plan to replace. Use a 3/8 pin punch or if you have an air chisel, the .401 shank from any bit works perfectly to pry the injectors out. Do not waste $75 on the injector puller pictured in my garage.
The passenger side is easier. I don't drain the radiator and just work around the heater hoses. The FICM and fuel filter assembly are all that has to be removed to get to the injector lines and remove the valve covers. I don't have the torque specs here or any way to post a picture of the torque sequence. The upper gasket is RTV sillicone, the lower is an o-ring style.