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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
DIY EGR Blocker Plate Install & FAQ's (LLY)

DIY Blocker Plate Install & FAQ’s
(LLY Engine only 2004.5 + Model Year)​

Everyone must be reminded that this information is being provided as a condensed version of previous thread postings. It is provided as a quick reference to obtain information on this subject due to the length of the current threads. Any installation you make is done at your own risk. Any manufacturer can not and will not be responsible for any damages, real or perceived, to you, your truck, or your marital life in whole or in part. Same goes for these installation directions. I did this as a favor to the forum members to save them some reading time on an interesting subject.Read all these directions before installing. Ask questions first, install second.​


Additional EGR related information can be found on this thread HERE.

As of 4-6-05 Blocker Plates are available from Diesel Performance Shop (DPS) a supporting vendor (made in cooperation with member KROUTMAN). Contact them at the following link to purchase or to answer any related questions. Forum member "[email protected]" is one in the same. www.DPSDirect.com


What is it?

The “Blocker Plate” is just as the name implies. It is an aftermarket-machined plate made to slide into the EGR exhaust connection flange to block off the flow of emission gases to the EGR. Some believe that this results in an internally cleaner engine due to no longer recirculating sooted exhaust gases through the engine intake to be reused during the combustion process. Some forum members report the following additional benefits when the plate is installed: A slight increase in MPG’s, a slight decrease in EGT temperatures, more engine power, quicker turbo spool-up and a slightly quieter running engine. A few members have also noted just the opposite.

Will installing the blocker plate cause DTC codes and a Service Engine Soon light?

Installing a Blocker Plate will cause the PCM to display EGR related DTC error codes due to the lack of airflow to the EGR. Forum members report that on vehicles with Federal Emission standards the SES light usually will not illuminate. On vehicles having CA and Northeast emission standards chances are the SES light will illuminate. The Finger Stick can be installed to prevent DTC’s and SES illumination. It is still unknown as to exactly how / if the ECM compensates when the plate is installed without the Stick.

More information about the Finger Stick is available HERE.

Additional Comments

The plate should be removed prior to returning to the dealer for service work.

If the plate alone is installed you can keep the EGR plugged in or you can unplug it to keep the EGR stepper motor from cycling unnecessarily. The EGR must remain plugged in though if the Fingers Stick is installed.

If making your own plate, use steel and not aluminum due to high temperatures. The eighth photo below is a DIY diagram for the plate as original posted by member Fingers.

The first time you do the install it may take 15-20 minutes, as the bolts might be tight. If additional leverage is needed, you can always remove the air intake tube (or disconnect one end of it and slide it up out of the way) and/or remove the big black cover on the top of the engine that says” 6.6 Turbo Diesel” on it. After the intitial install, removing the plate and installing it again only takes about 5 minutes.

Where to Install the Plate? (thanks to Fingers for the install pics)

The first photo below is that of a blocker plate (as originally posted by members Reliver & Robby who made the first plates for members here. Current plates may look different dependant on who made them). The plate is designed to slide into place. The hole on top is a finger hole so that you can grab on to it.

The second photo is of the general area of the engine where the blocker plate is installed.

The third photo is a more specific location of where the plate is installed. It installs in the flange that connects the exhaust to the EGR (silver horizontal tube). The flange is located near the firewall to the driver’s side of the transmission dipstick / beneath the two rubber hoses that come out of the firewall.

How to install the plate:

Loosen the two (2) 12mm nuts on the firewall side of the flange. You do not need to remove the nuts. Only loosen them enough to allow the flange to be pried apart to allow the blocker plate to be slid in place. Wrench room is tight but you can get a 3/8” ratchet in the space using a 12mm deep socket or a short socket with a short extension. Be careful not to drop your socket down the back of the engine because it will disappear in the shield back there forever! You may want to stuff a rag in the opening below the flange to prevent this. See the forth photo below.

Once the nuts are loose, pry the flange apart. You can use the handle of the ratchet to keep it apart if needed. See the fifth photo below.

Slide the blocker plate in place. It will slide down over the flange bolts. Make sure it is down all the way. See the sixth photo below. There is already a metal type gasket in the flange. Some people choose to install a second gasket on the other side of the plate (you can buy one from the dealer or cut your own out of high temperature gasket material using the plate as a template). Some choose to not install any secondary gasket and this seems to work fine also. If possible, before sliding the plate in place, slide the existing OEM gasket back so that it is on the firewall side of the plate. This is the pressure side and should seal things up nicely without a second gasket.

Once the plate is in place, retighten the nuts. Start the engine and feel with your fingers to make sure you don’t have an exhaust leak (do this before the engine gets too hot). The seventh photo below is how the plate looks after being installed.

Job complete!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Can this be moved to the DIY??
 

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Great write up:ro) Thanks for taking the time.
 

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Wow

Wow !
Thoses Bolts were tight ! :rant:


But I got them !:grd:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Is that a template you should use if you wanted to make your own. What are the measurements, One of my friends can make it for me at work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Z71 Grizzly said:
Is that a template you should use if you wanted to make your own. What are the measurements, One of my friends can make it for me at work.
IIRC the lines on the image are 1" scale
 

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Is that the correct template size for it?
 

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Hey that looks like Lake Powel !!!
Do you have the raw fuel smell before you added the plate? And did it help to block it off?
I have the LLY with AFE STAGE II, NO CAT 4" EXHAUST, EDGE W/ATTITUDE AND STACKED THE SUPER CHIP 150 HP ON THAT. RUN'S TOTALLY WICKED. BUT WITH THE SUPERCHIP ON PERFORMANCE TOW AND EDGE ON ECONOMY, I HAVE NASTY RAW FUEL SMELL. I HAVE UNPLUGED MY EGR AND HAVE NOT PULLED CODES BUT STILL HAVE THE RAW FUEL SMELL.
HOW ABOUT YOU?
TROYE FROM SALT LAKE.
 
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