Diesel Place banner

141 - 154 of 154 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Thanks Flagstaff for a very informative thread. My son and I will be doing his this weekend. He got a Murray pump from O'Reillys, hope it doesn't whine. Will check on the proper tools and all gaskets and o-rings needed. I saved all info from this thread and plan to save TheBac's thread also. Makes me feel better about tackling this project.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
869 Posts
My thanks to TheBac and Flagstaff for the great info!

I'm starting in the morning. Going to also do the belt, tensioner, idlers and thermostats while I'm in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
869 Posts
Things were going good until...I took the lower intercooler tube off of the passenger side to get to the bolt holding the fan shroud. After loosening the bolt I pulled the socket wrench out and the socket popped off and fell into the intercooler...:cussing:Damn, should have stuffed a rag in there.

I'm off to the store to get a magnet on a flexible wand to try and fish it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
Things were going good until...I took the lower intercooler tube off of the passenger side to get to the bolt holding the fan shroud. After loosening the bolt I pulled the socket wrench out and the socket popped off and fell into the intercooler...:cussing:Damn, should have stuffed a rag in there.

I'm off to the store to get a magnet on a flexible wand to try and fish it out.

I don't think the shroud needs to be removed if you decide to bust the radial plastic pieces out. They're only there to keep some fool from sticking his hands in the fan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
869 Posts
Well, got the socket out of the intercooler and finished the job. Took a lot longer than I anticipated. The addition of the radial fan shroud on the O6's complicated things a bit. Having to remove the passenger side intercooler tube and the bracket for the radial shroud makes it difficult to get to the inside bolt for the oil cooler tube.

No leaks and getting up to temp know with the new t-stats.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
You can compare pricing mine is getting done today by a shop (I have no time) Total with replacement new pump is $660 bucks.
my replacement parts list for 2004.5 LLY
Lisle 22100 tool $31.25 (amazon 2 day free shipping)
Gates 22650 lower rad hose $65.81 (amazon 2 day free shipping)
gates 22698 upper rad hose $15 (amazon 2 day free shipping)
AC delco 252-838 water pump w/ all gaskets $67.90 (amazon 2 day free shipping)
AC delco 97228188 water pump cover $59.69 (amazon 2 day free shipping)
Coolant of choice $?

total $239.65 (+ coolant and new hose claps)


the first one I did took me about 4 -4.5 hours. Now that I have done several of them, less than 3 hours.

This is the first time I have used amazon to buy parts. Usually I buy from the common sponsors of this site. The reason I didnt this time should be clear when you price it out (more than double, plus shipping in some cases).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,395 Posts
Since my truck has 107k miles and is 11.5 years old, I thought I would replace the water pump, serpentine belt, both idlers, belt tensioner, and clean the stack. Hopefully I won't have to do this again for 10 years!!

First, many thanks to flagstaff for this thread (great pictures!!), and to TheBac for the step-by-step instructions. I studied them many times before starting, and used them while doing the job. Yes, I have some comments that might help the next adventurer. Some comments may duplicate comments made by others above.

1) For some reason, I assumed I had to take out the bypass pipe. I think if you are careful not to disturb it much, you can unbolt and slide the water pump out. I removed mine (since I got a new o-ring with the Merchant water pump kit). Well, I had trouble getting the pipe back in and it leaked like crazy. I took it out and the o-ring was nicked in several places. Here's what worked for me:
- Of course, make sure the hole under the thermostat housing is clear of crud; mine was actually quite clean.
- Put the o-ring on the bypass tube and slide it all the way down to the bulge. This was my big mistake the first time; not seating it lets it move/roll/twist when you shove it in. I greased the hole and the area above the o-ring on the tube (probably too much). But this time it slid in very easily/smoothly (unlike the first time). My original o-ring looked good so I re-used it after ruining the new one.
- NAPA sold me a foot of cheap 3/8" heater hose for the bypass tube to turbo line. This bothered me so much I went to a dealer the next day and bought a new hose (#94002821) that came from Japan (retail $23!! but I talked them into a $6 discount). It's obviously a much higher quality piece of hose and should easily last another 10 years.

2) Since I had the stack out, my 3/4" impact from Harbor Freight took the balancer bolt off with ease. I didn't even have to lock the crank. I did use the Lisle tool later to torque the bolt. As others noted, after torquing reverse and take the pressure off the Lisle tool so you can get it off easily.

3) For the pipe that goes out the back of the water pump, I was able to reach the 2 bolts from underneath without much trouble at all (instead of coming through the wheel well with a 20" extension.)

4) I almost failed (although failure was not an option) getting the fan clutch nut loose. I beat it. I tried a strap wrench. I tried the wedge. I was about to order a spanner wrench that uses the holes in the pulley. Instead, I built a tool (a 2 ft. framing square, a straight Simpson tie, 3 nuts/bolts to make a spanner...and it worked!). Tied that off and about 3 ft. worth of leverage and the nut came loose. Wow, that was a tough nut!
- I did not do this, but it seemed like maybe you could just take off the 3-bolts/2-nuts that hold the fan support. Then just take out the whole assembly. Does anybody know that this doesn't work? It might be worth a try if someone is taking off the fan clutch for the first time. Be sure to use something to hold up the assembly so it doesn't fall... especially into the radiator.

5) I used spare lumber out my junk pile and build a wood frame over the front of the truck (about 6" higher than the top of the cab), then set it over the front, above the radiator. I did this because I work alone and needed to carefully lift the radiator/intercooler assembly out with tie-down straps, and later re-install it. It came in handy for other things, too.

6) I have hated the spring hose clamps all of my life, but I decided to re-use as many as I could!! The cheap worm clamps won't maintain tension so you have to keep tightening them. You can't do that for the hose on that bypass tube. I did buy the only 2 constant torque hose clamps in stock at my local NAPA store (that use Belleville washers, also known as coned-disc springs). These are nice high-quality clamps but you should pre-order from Amazon before you need them. Or, you can just keep re-tightening the worm clamps. I still have some so I will still have to that sometimes.

7) I suggest buying or making a pressure testing kit. I bought a 60psi gauge for swimming pools at Lowes, and assorted 1/4" T's, ball valves, converters to 1/2" hose barps (intended for pex), and an air hose quick connect. Turning the compressor pressure down to 20psi, I use one of the ball valves to gently pressurize the system (viewing the pressure gauge), then closing the valve and seeing if it holds pressure. Of course, I learned the hard way by putting it all together and then finding I had a big leak, the first time. But now I can test it without having the fan or belt on, and not wait for it to heat up, and not burn myself, and control/test the pressure easily. I just tap into one of the hose line (like the 1/2" that goes from the reservoir to the radiator).

(Sorry, this got very long, and it's now very later, and I'm very tired! I'll re-read tomorrow and see if I was making any sense.)
-Jake.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Robsauto2

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,395 Posts
In addition to above, goal was to change coolant hoses. I changed the radiator hoses (cutting them in 2 places because of the aux radiator... always a serious moment when you cut brand new hoses!!), and all the coolant hoses I came into contact up front. I still have to do the heater hoses, but the old ones are still in good shape so maybe I'll do them after recovering from this effort (or in 3 years when I change out the coolant).

On the bypass tube and to make sliding the hoses on easier, I used plumber's silicone grease (from Lowes or HD). It comes in a small container like some lip balms come in.

I think I want to emphasize that if it's hard to insert the bypass tube, then something is wrong. When it was right, it slipped in (wife says "don't say this!!") like a pre-lubed condom.

Compared to others, my stack was surprisingly clean. We don't have big swarms of bugs and blowing farm debris or massive tumble weed storms in So. Calif, but I've driven through some over the years. Still, there was some crud, and I know it's clean.

For re-using old hose clamps, I should point out that we don't get much corrosion because we don't have snow here, so the clamps were in near-new condition.

It's warming up outside so I need to go continue my pressure testing. Oh yeah, when putting this all together, just fill it with water (I used distilled water at 88 cents/gal) and don't put in the Dexcool until you're sure you've got it right! I already burned through 9 gallons of water, and I may need to buy a little more for final testing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Robsauto2

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Jake....I am at a complete loss on this. O actually got some o ring maker and made quite a few. I read you directions, and I still ended up cutting one of the rings clear in half. I have destroyed the fel pro....and now 5 of the ones I have made. I am using Sil Glyde for lubrication. Lubed the hell out of the ring and the housing. I did a dry fit without a ring first, and it fits and turns without much of an issue. I have to start with the small little tube almost facing the block, then twisting it around.
When you say "push the O ring down to he bulge" are you talking about pushing it down in the natural groove between the too flanges? There is the upper and bottom lip....I just can't seem to get this thing beat. I got it in there and twisted around...then filled with coolant and it leaked. Took it out and the O ring was cut completely in 2.
The housing and pipe neither have any burs or rough spots at all. I am just completely stumped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,395 Posts
That sounds right about aligning the tube to go straight up into the hole (with the little tube facing towards block), then after it goes in twisting it back into position on the water pump.

On my first try it was difficult to push up the tube, and it destroyed the o-ring. On my second try, with lots of lube on the tube and up in the hole, the tube with o-ring slid in, and twisted to line up, without any resistance. I suspect if there is any resistance, you're probably destroying the o-ring at that point.

There is a lip/bulge at the top of the tube, and then another about 1/2" lower, right? I positioned the o-ring in that 1/2" section, but all the way down against the lower lip/bulge (with no twists on the o-ring, of course). I pretty much filled the rest of the 1/2" section with silicone grease. I have no idea how much is too much, or too little.

I suspect, but cannot prove, that the o-ring actually seals in the tube against that lower lip/bulge, and that it really doesn't completely seat until there's pressure in the cooling system. When I filled with water and pressurized, a few drips came out (I think, but there tends to be water in that area when working on it) . . . and then any drips completely stopped.

I haven't used Sil Glyde. The stuff I used is probably a little less stiff (viscous) than petroleum jelly. Sil Glyde says it works for brakes, does that mean it's thick? It says it has a tough film, maybe too tough? I don't know. Have others used it successfully?

The o-ring I got from Merchant with the water pump kit looks exactly like the oem. Since I destroyed the new o-ring I re-used the old one. If there are differences, I couldn't tell.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Robsauto2
141 - 154 of 154 Posts
Top