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I did my pump myself for under $100! I will never pay for what i can do!
 

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I am going to be doing mine next week may as well do the fan belt and idlers as well.This is great it already has been a big help. The best site ever.....
 

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Marking this thread for reference - chaning my pump in the next few days
 

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I did mine today after reading this thread. THANK YOU Flagstaff and TheBac. Your instructions helped out immensely and I was able to save about $800 by doing it myself.

It took me 3 hours. I used a Bosch from Pep Boys. It makes a whirring sound when you accelerate. I kinda like it. It sounds like I have a supercharger and a turbo. Supposedly the whirring goes away but if not I can live with it.

Besides breaking loose the harmonic balancer bolt, the hardest part was getting the pump out with that black pipe in the way (the one that goes from the top of the pump to the bottom of the thermostats.
 

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Well, just finished mine up today. 5 hours start to finish and that was with a couple trips to the hardware store. I think if I ever had to do it again (God forbid), I could get it done in around 2 hours with a helper (which I didn't have today).

A couple notes:
- Getting the fan loose was a pain. The wedge trick worked eventually, but it was still slipping a lot. This is where a helper would've been nice. Plus, I was using a big pipe wrench which was way too bulky.
- The next hurdle was the infamous balancer bolt. I ended up using a 5 foot long black steel pipe over a 2 ft. 3/4 inch breaker bar....and it was STILL a huge pain :)
- The last real pain was that little 4 inch 3/8 hose. I had to cut it off to get the black thermostat pipe to move enough to get everything out. Getting it back together was a humongous pain in the butt. The spring clamps that were on there were so tight I couldn't get it all back together so I switched to screw-style hose clamps.

After that everything went smoothly. Test everything out before you put the fan and shroud back on.

I saved $700 today, thank you to everyone for the tips.
 

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Does the Water pump cover need to be replaced when replacing the pump itself? My Truck has 176k miles on it but I don't want to replace something that doesn't wear out.
Generally, no. Mine had 150k and I could see no reason to replace the housing. In fact, O'Reilly didn't even offer and option to buy the cover, they would only sell me the pump itself.

Unless it is visibly damaged, save yourself a few bucks.
 

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Awesome pictorial. Guess I'll be doing mine this week.


WTF.........could GM made it any harder too replace a water pump, never heard of removing a harmonic balancer to get to water pump.....i guess they figure the average D.I.Y. guy is not going to do a water pump themselves, I can remember how easy it is to replace a water pump on a S/B or B/B chevy i guess thats the difference between a gasser and a diesel

Hahahaha, try doing an Optispark on an LT1. Or maybe an oil pump on an LS1...when that little bastard 10mm bolt drops in the oilpan.
 

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I really appreciate the good write-up and pictures from Flagstaff and TheBac. They have been very helpful so far in replacing mine :thankyou2

I'm halfway there. Today I took my time to disassemble everything and tomorrow I'll be putting it all back together with the new pump.

Got a few question though. Do I need to replace my pump housing due to pitting? I see others with slight pitting on the cover but I was wondering at what point is it too severe and need to be replaced?

Pics of the pump cover. 155k on mine


 

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I really appreciate the good write-up and pictures from Flagstaff and TheBac. They have been very helpful so far in replacing mine :thankyou2

I'm halfway there. Today I took my time to disassemble everything and tomorrow I'll be putting it all back together with the new pump.

Got a few question though. Do I need to replace my pump housing due to pitting? I see others with slight pitting on the cover but I was wondering at what point is it too severe and need to be replaced?

Pics of the pump cover. 155k on mine


Looks fine to me. I'd run it like that.

That is caused by cavitation.
 

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Looks fine to me. I'd run it like that.

That is caused by cavitation.
I figured it was okay but just wanted to make sure before I put it all back together in the morning.

Thanks
 

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i printed off the bac's write up as well and am using it this weekend to do mine. got most of it done tonight but ripped that o ring he talked about on the by pass tube. hopefully i can get one tomorrow for it. other than that i just need to put the clutch fan and pully on, and the starter and im done, i also decided to change both thermostats while i was working on it as well, and clean the resevoir bottle out. im also doing a lot of other work so the truck will be on the hoist most of tomorrow as well.
 

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o right, and to the bac: i saw you were apart of this thread, and wanted to let you know that the half inch ratchet in the flywheel worked perfect for me. also everything is going good for me so far, except the o ring part, (i knew i was risking it ripping but had no choice. i coudn't get the pump back in without removing it. thanks to both of you for the awsome write ups. they are a huge help.
 

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no one mentioned is the balancer bolt or the fan a reverse thread? starting this project tomorrow
 

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thanks shookme
 

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thanks for the awesome write up . I ordered the balancer socket and flywheel tool this afternoon . So I fiquired I would start working on ripping it apart to see what I was in for . that nut for the fan..... it is tight tried to used a rubber wedge the pully just spins , jeez can wait to get to the balancer ..... I tried for like 15mins , will have more time tomorrow
 

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The fan nut really is not very tight, you just need to hold the fan pully still. I used a strap wrench and an adjustable wrench.
If you have an impact hammer, they say hitting the nut near a corner will jar it loose.
 
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