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Discussion Starter #1
I had a problem with my truck and it went and broke down at the side of the road and wouldnt start again.


After checking numerous things it was found that the injector pump had given up the ghost and i have since then replaced it and bought a PMD cooler. After installing the new pump it took some time to get it running but when i did get it running it was terrible and had no power in it. I thought that it may be that the timing was out of the vehicle and so did a slight adjustment on the timing but it did not improve. I then had the injectors done and still no improvement. It then got more and more difficult to start with me having to crank the engine for longer periods. It then got to a stage where i would get it started and then take the idling to just about 1500 and it would give a tremendous knock and belch out black smoke.


After thinking that i had done some serious damage to the engine it occured to me that the vehicle was overfueling. I am now in the spot where i cant even get it started anymore due to the amount of fuel it seems to be delivering. Is there anyone out there that can give me some advise as to what to do next?


I am in South Africa so there is no one here that can actually help in this regard.
 

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You might want to post this in the 6.5 section.
 

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It seems you should get a fresh pump and try again. The surging is indicitive of a failing fuel solenoid as well as over fueling.
 

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If your replacement Inj Pump is 5288 or 5521, then -


First, pull the DTC's - can be done with Ign switch on, engine not running - post them here.


Then, remove the Inj Pump nuts, where you can pull the pump back from the timing cover.


If you can see the slight impression from the original pump, re-istall the new pump to that position.


Make sure your INTAKE Air Filter is new, and no one left a shop rag in the inlet ducting, or any small furry nesting creatures have not taken up abode therein.


Unplug the Optic Sensor, start and run the engine for 15minutes to clear the injector pipes.


Reconnect the OS, make sure the engine starts and runs .


If all is well, PCM will relearn TDC Offset required for new pump over period of 50 starts.


Some have suggested that a key on\off procedure also works for the OBD-I series, so you might give that a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The replacement pump was indeed a 5288 and i have tried to pull DTC's but im afraid there arent any. The only information i can get related to timing is that it requests a Desired timing of 14.0 actual timing 14.0. I have also replaced the crankshaft position sensor as i was told that that may be a problem. I have disconnected the Optic Sensor and tried to get the van started but it still just swings and does not start. If anything it actually sounds worse when i disconnect the OS. My problem is that i just cant get the truck running and there doesnt seem to be any logical reason for it other than that perhaps the timing is out. Now my only problem is that i cant reset the timing or do a timing learn proceedure as there is no one here that has the correct diagnostics tools. I have a Tech1 but dont have the cartridge for this van and i have the Snap-On Scanner MT2500 but all that that does is allow me the info on the vehicle but does not allow me to perform any tests or proceedures. You are however right that i do have the OBD-I and if there is some way that a key on/off proceedure may help with the starting can you suggest the proceedure?
 

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The timing figure helps - rotate the pump to the passenger-side by ~5mm.


This will retard the timing by ~10deg - engine should start at +4deg, even with TDC Offset out of spec.


Factory-adjusted timing is +3.5deg.


Dis-connecting the OS allows the engine to run in 'limp-home', or backup mode, where PCM will not be attempting to correct for any other errors.


This will allow Inj Pump to force-clear the injector pipes of any residual air bubbles - you can slightly loosen each pipe fitting at the injector till no bubbles appear.


The DTC procedure and codes are in the FAQ area, and TDG or QM may re-post the TDC Learn procedure, here.
 

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I think I've had this problem before. The CTS (coolant temp. sensor) on the water crossover has become disconnected and the PCM thnks it's -40 *F and is advancing time and dumping fuel. Repair or replace the sensor. The 14* timing gave it away.


 

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Discussion Starter #9
The only problem with that idea is that my scanner is indicating that i have a coolant reading of 28*C. I pressume that gmctd you mean that i just have to loosen the 3 retaining bolts and move the pump by 5mm towards the passenger side?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanx for the picture qm, i have checked just now to make sure but my wiring is definately attached to the sensor
 

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Another possibility is the optical has failed. What is the fuel pump angle on the scanner? 25*-35*? or much higher like 60*?


The CTS is just a veriable resistor that should have an OHM reading that can be compared to know values for corrsponding engine temps. Idependent confirmation is due 'cause the reading you're getting could be from the other sensor on the driver'sdie head#1 cylinder.
 

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Correct - loosen the nuts and retard the pump.


DO NOT use the vertical Fuel Shut-off solenoid as a handle for this task - only the pump flange or body


Scanner cannot read the Temperature Gage sensor - it has no connection to the PCM.


28*C is about 85*F - ECT sensor should read ~2300ohms
 

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You have to crank it for 20 sec or longer to start it with the optical unplugged. Are you jumping it to start it?
 
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