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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The Tahoe died at work last week. Quit just as I got on the road after being parked all day. Tried to restart and it worked for about 5 seconds then smoke and burning smell. No WTS light, no SES light. Was a little low on fuel so I pushed it towards a station and added a few nalgene's worth. No help. Opened the air bleed on the fuel filter and got fuel to come out. Checked fuses and it looks like glow plug (20A) fuse blew, changed it and cranked again but it just spins. WTS light doesnt come on again so I assume fuse blew again and had it towed to closest non-dealership shop.

After a week of putzing with it they say it needs a new IP. So here's my predicament. It's still under warranty ('99,107K) . I had the IP replaced at the dealer 14 months ago and they charged my $1700. I'm still smarting from that (that was the "warranty" price!) A few days after I got it back from the dealer it started spewing black smoke under acceleration - no way I was going back to the dealer so I bypass the problem with an L65 ECM. Works great until last week.

So here's how I see my options:
1. Yikes! dont take it to the dealer because it's frankenstiened with that ECM. (my current tactic)

2. have the current shop clean all the grounds and install the old ECM

3. if #2 doesnt work tow it to the dealer and see if they agree with the diagnoses and how much the warranty work costs.

4. buy a $200 used remote mount PMD and see what happens before
attempting #3.

5. buy a junker and work on the truck in my spare time.

6. Cut your losses. Your working on IP #3 under warranty and $2k/14 months in maintenance. Do #4 and see if you can limp it to a dealership to trade it in.

Assuming I have the work done, should I even consider having the injectors & glow plugs replaced while they do the work? It needs plugs because it really fogs up the block on cold mornings w/o the block heater plugged in, and maybe injectors because it's got 107k and it gets about 18mpg highway or city.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 

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First off I would get an attorney and sue the dealer that charged you for a warranty pump, then I would go through the FAQ's and do the diag checklist and then go through the surving a trip to the dealer for pump warranty.
 

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$1,700 for a warrantee job. That's rape. Ditto on the lawyer and don't go back there for more abuse. Find another dealer. JD Power and Associates should be informed about your case.

My truck's at the dealer right now with same symptoms. No WTS light. Lift pump doesn't cycle. I thought that I had this problem under control until the temps dropped to 5 degrees outside. Then it started, idled then died, no wts light.

Hopefully by next week some time, I'll have an answer. I don't know if IP should effect the wts light, but as I've been unable to fix the same problem on my truck, I don't assume that I know anything.

Take a closer look at your battery and ground connections. It fixed my truck temporarily when I cleaned mine and added extra grounds.
 

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I paid a $200 deductible for an IP replacement at 123,000 miles!! Ya, it was out of the warranty period but a call to GM's service 800 # worked within 5 minutes and it was one of the most pleasant experiences I've had (with stealers).
 

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I would forget the lawyer, you'll just spend more money for no reason.

If your pump was replaced under warrenty, unless the 1700.00 was for such nonsense as cleaning your fuel tank, then GM should reimburse you for the full amount.

Get ahold of GM customer service, and hopefully you can find your receipt.

I would track down the burning smell and find out what is causing your electrical problems. Sounds like you have a short somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
nonsense like cleaning the tank

Yep, the dealer found metal shavings in the tank so they charged me a lot of money for that and made it seem like they were doing me a favor by covering the pump. I've since found a TSB (on the very helpful alldatadiy.com service) that states GM covers IP's even with metal shavings in the tank because that can happen when they die. I guess they use that ploy to, as the military says, "soften the target"..
 

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I have a PMD that works but on occasion will stall, but restart with no problems, and work for another week or two till it acts up again.(always starts) You pay shipping and you can have it!! It might help you to eliminate at least the PMD, and all you have to do is unplug the stock PMD at the pump and plug in the spare, don't even bother to bolt it on just let it hang there. at least if it does start you will know what is wrong, also this reminds me of a post here with a bad ign switch, no power to all the lights/gauges on the left side of the dash
PM me with address & phone number if you want the PMD
 

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Tell them metal shavings came from the defective pump. Gm arbitrator will side with you. Should get your money back with a little persistence.
 

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When I had mine replaced under warranty they tried to charge me $200 to flush tank after warranty repair. Only I sent my wife down to the shop when they were requesting my approval to make the repairs and she watched the vehicle until I got there. THe only thing that was done was they installed the plastic cover. They either didn't do the flush as they said they did or they did it before calling for my approval, either way was illegal.

I simply made it known to them that if they insisted on charging me for the flush they would see me in court for fraud. (I'm an attorney) they quickly apologized and sent me on my way with no charges.

Most dealers either don't know about the warranty and if they do they will try to come up with another non-warranty repair that you will need to pay for. Don't let them steal from you, get a copy of the warranty and hold your ground. Contact Chevy and get your money refunded. You can also threathen going to a local news station they may find that a very attractive story, a dealership charging $1700 for a repair completely covered under warranty.
 

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I copied this from the **********.com (94-98 6.5L)

Unlike the 1993 6.5L there is no metering valve to stick, therefore a stalling problem is usually related to an electrical problem of some sort. A complete check of all ground wires and connections should be made before replacing the injection pump. Loose or improperly connected ground wires have been known to cause start and die situations, stalling on turns, as well as intermittent stalling.
Both wiring harnesses hooking to the computer bulkhead connector from both inside and outside the cab have been known to cause stalling. Also check for proper ground connections of all ground wires making sure you are not trying to ground to a painted surface.
Once the vehicle has been completely checked for poor electrical contacts the injection pump may be the next place to suspect a problem. Changing the injection pump should eliminate any problems created by a bad connection within the electronics of the pump.
NOTE: Some technicians are mounting the Pump Mounted Driver on a heat sink on the firewall well away from the injection pump. This supposedly keeps the extreme temperatures from affecting the PMD and prevents hot stalling. According to Stanadyne the PMD actually operates cooler while mounted on the injection pump.
 

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How would one go about checking the wiring harnesses for shorts? (without trial and error replacement)
 

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NOTE: Some technicians are mounting the Pump Mounted Driver on a heat sink on the firewall well away from the injection pump. This supposedly keeps the extreme temperatures from affecting the PMD and prevents hot stalling. According to Stanadyne the PMD actually operates cooler while mounted on the injection pump.
:lol: That's funny!!!!
 

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How would one go about checking the wiring harnesses for shorts? (without trial and error replacement)
After replacing PMD(twice), IP(twice), CPS, ECM (twice), and all engine grounds, I unhooked the ECM and IP and manually traced each wire between them and found a short coming from firewall bundle on passenger side. THe short was beneath coolant tank where the bundle runs next to the A/C line. Mine was shorting intermitantly on the A/C causing stalling, codes, etc... I had to cut away the loom to get to it and look at each wire individually.

Electrical problems are the worst good luck if that is the problem.

I would take it back to dealer get it replaced again under warranty and get money back for first warranty replacement.
 

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MarkPMD was shipped today, also sent you a PM
 

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NOTE: Some technicians are mounting the Pump Mounted Driver on a heat sink on the firewall well away from the injection pump. This supposedly keeps the extreme temperatures from affecting the PMD and prevents hot stalling. According to Stanadyne the PMD actually operates cooler while mounted on the injection pump.
it probably does operate cooler while on the pump as fuel is used to cool it while the engine is running but turn the engine off and it don't do diddly squat. so by way of heat transferance from the engine block up thru the pump and on to the pmd. well therein lies the problem. whatever happened to whomever it was that was using a peltier junction for pmd cooling. anyone ??
 

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whatever happened to whomever it was that was using a peltier junction for pmd cooling. anyone ??
He didn't K.I.S.S. the problem.:badidea:
 

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He didn't K.I.S.S. the problem.:badidea:
That was me.

The reason I am at a stand still is that I REFUSE to spend $90 on an extension harness. I am going to head out to a local wrecker in the spring and try to grab a used 'bad' PMD that I can cut up to make my own harness.

As far as keeping it simple - how much simpler can it get? Hook up the wires to a 12V source and add two cpu fans to the top of the fins - already done!
 

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A heat sink is easier, has no moving parts, and can't stop blowing air!!
 

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A heat sink is easier, has no moving parts, and can't stop blowing air!!
The peltier junction is one-half heat sink!!!!!
 

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