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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All-
Some of you may remember me from about 3 - 4 months ago. Purchased back my '84 CUCV with just over 26k miles on it.

Anywho, about a month after I got it back, the starter relay went while stuck in traffic. I ended up smoking the starter motor (along with a couple of cables and terminals) trying to find a safe place to pull off the road.

I am now faced with the question again of whether I should convert to 12v or keep her 24v. I've done the research and it seems a toss up. The biggest issue with the conversion is a lot of re-wiring and the time to do it, but that's not THAT big of an issue.

Also, I need to replace both alternator belts. They have been sitting for about 4 years and are not looking so happy. I tried to do some searching to figure out what the part number is for each of the belts, but I had no luck. Does anyone have any suggestions for me in this department?

I also noticed a little grease coming out of the front hubs. Wasn't sure if this indicated a seal leak or if it might just be from sitting stationary for 4 years. I drive this thing about 90% on the freeway, and the rest off-road, so I really don't want the front hubs failing on me at 70 MPH, haha. But I don't have much experience with the manual hubs.

And last, but not least, are there any other major items anyone can recommend for me to look at while I'm under there. I already planned to change the oil and coolant as well as have a transmission shop service the transmission and transfer case. The rear driveshaft has also been rebuilt and I am taking it in to have the front brakes done as they are squeaking like a banshee while stopping (they still stop great though).

Any help is, as always, greatly appreciated.
 

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cucv...

If you havn't found it yet...WWW.steelsoldiers.com

lots of cucv owners on SS.plenty of info,including tecnical manuals available as well. more details would help...what model do you have?the charging systems can vary a bit,but since you spend a lot of time at 70,i assume it's a 1009 (blazer).a lot of owners like to keep the system as is,and if all is well and the charging system is working fine,why change?

mine had problems,and i resorted to a battery equalizer to solve the charging issues.but the 1010's and some1028's had dual 24V alternators,and some purely 24V accesories.(i wanted to keep mine opperational).for you,it seems to be a need for a rebuilt starter or a new one,and some cables.

try here too WWW.roscommonequipmentcenter.com

for info on 12V conversion if it turns your crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry about leaving out the version. I am running the M1009 (Blazer) CUCV. I have also signed up at SteelSoldiers and spend some time over there as well.

Also, after talking with Magnus and some research, I may just hold out and keep it 24v. There doesn't seem to be much of a downside except availability of parts, but it sounds like any major components that do fail (Starter, Alternators, etc...) can be rebuilt for the same or cheaper than buying new.

Thanks for the info though, and definitely keep it coming. I can use as much info. as possible.
 

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Yeah, you might as well stick with 24V. Personally, if it were my truck, I would convert it to 12V just for the sake of convenience (jump-starting etc.), but it is probably simpler just to replace the starter and go with it.

The grease on the front hubs is probably from leaking seals. If I remember correctly you should run them in the "locked" position every now and then to keep the axle lubricated and the seals wet...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
High Sierra-
Thanks for that, I think I will stick with the 24v for now, for sanities sake. Similarly, I have several friends with CUCV's as well (all still 24v), maybe I can get the appropriate slave socket jumpers for future use *lol*.

As for the axles, now that you mention it, I remember seeing that somewhere. Similarly, it seemed like once I locked the front hubs in and drive it a little bit, the grease didn't flow anymore. I guess I'm just curious if I should plan on rebuilding those, or if they should be ok? I haven't had any noises or noticeable problems with the front hubs before.
 

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Dude. Change to 12 volt.

If you think it's alot of rewiring, you are smoking the good stuff. It took me 15 minutes and a starter change.

the only thing on a cucv that is 24 volt IS THE STARTER!!!

that's it. Everything else is operated by 24 dropped to 12 by one big resistor. Ditch the resistor, re-hook up the batteries, and swap starters. It will save you money in the long run...
 

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redwolf3;1575116; said:
High Sierra-
Thanks for that, I think I will stick with the 24v for now, for sanities sake. Similarly, I have several friends with CUCV's as well (all still 24v), maybe I can get the appropriate slave socket jumpers for future use *lol*.

As for the axles, now that you mention it, I remember seeing that somewhere. Similarly, it seemed like once I locked the front hubs in and drive it a little bit, the grease didn't flow anymore. I guess I'm just curious if I should plan on rebuilding those, or if they should be ok? I haven't had any noises or noticeable problems with the front hubs before.

Just leave the axle alone for now. Run it locked every now and then and, unless it starts making noise, don't worry about it.
 

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Could be that you will need to re-pack the bearings due to the grease you lost while the seals were leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, my decision on going to 12v was more or less made for me. The old starter was beyond repair. A new 24v one was $240, a new 12v one was $100. I didn't get the gear reduction one, but I never had any starting problems before, so I'm not too worried.

Now I just have to start modifying the wiring, but it sounds like its pretty straightforward: Rewire the batteries in parallel, remove drivers alternator and wire passenger one where the drivers side was plugged in, and bypass/remove the Resistor pack. I will follow the Roscomm instructions.

Now I'm just waiting on the Starter Support bracket ($3.56 from GM :eek:), and then I have to get some new power wires made up for the batteries and the starter as they all got smoked when the starter went (4 minutes of constant motor starting seems to have that effect).

Once that's all done and she's running again, I'll look at the front wheel bearings too. Greasing them shouldn't be too big of a pain.
 

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That's why I like to carry a pair of wire cutters in my truck... If something ever shorts I can just pop the hood and cut the wire. Not that I've ever had to do it, but if I did I'm ready...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ya, not sure I'd want to put wire cutters + my hands anywhere near 800 amps @ 24v being drawing from the batteries *LOL*. After about 40 seconds, I think the batteries were disconnected though, and the starter was just running off the alternators... weeee

Good news, found a reputable shop to do my power wires, so I'm going to pull the ones from the 1009 for sizing, and then have some new wires made. Yippee.
 

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Yeah, I once had that happen with an old lawn tractor. I let it go that time and I've never done it since (now I always cut the cables or push the terminal off the battery). If you are careful you can save yourself a lot of time, money, and energy with a pair of wire cutters and gloves. You can also prevent the truck from catching on fire which tends to be good... Just be careful what you touch... The biggest danger isn't really a shock, it's a burn from stuff that is hot from the short. If you touch both terminals of a car battery with your hands you won't get a shock (don't ask me why, I don't know the theory behind it, but you won't - if you could get a shock from it I'd be dead by now). Just don't touch anything carrying current with your bare hands or touch anything other than the wires with the cutters.

Something about this makes me wonder if maybe the problem wasn't caused by the starter... Has the ignition switch caused you any trouble in the past?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I agree with you on that, and in reality, if you cut the ground off, you're fairly safe.

As for the starter, it wasn't the initial problem. What actually happened was the start relay failed, and failed closed (IE: With the starter starting). I had a loose belt and I thought the squealing I heard was the alternator slipped. About 20 - 30 seconds later, I realized I was wrong, but I was stuck in a spot I couldn't safely pull over at. The starter was probably running for about 2 1/2 minutes solid, haha.

After all was said and done, I pulled the starter relay (under the dash) and it was failed in the closed position (Ok, who engnieered this bugger?!?!?). I've replaced the relay, but the starter was completely fused and smoked. Ohh well, such is life.

Overall, its not too bad. To get this thing running I put about $380 into it. That included 2 new batteries, a rebuilt rear driveshaft and the back registration. So, even with the new starter and the new cables, I'm only into it another $200 or so, so not terrible. Especially for the mileage this thing gets (much better than my Gas Guzzling Explorer).
 

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Your starter relay is under the dash? That's not stock... Although maybe the military trucks had something like that, I don't know...

So you've got less than $600 in it... Now that is what I call a good deal... :cool2:

I take it you finally got the title for it? ):h
 

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Ya, the starter relay is under the dash. In the Military blazers, they needed the extra relay to handle the power for the 24v solenoid. The stock ignition can't handle the power drawn by the 24v solenoid so they added the relay in the middle to bump up the power handling capabilities.

As for the money, you are completely right. Especially if you consider I sold this vehicle to the owner I more or less got it from for $3500 about (3) years ago.

And, you are correct, I finally got the title. It was a long process, but its mine (and I have the registration fees to prove it *grumble*).
 
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