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CUCV M1009 24v Starter

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11K views 36 replies 9 participants last post by  48cj2a  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Working on a friends CUCV M1009 that was dropped off because he couldn't get it started and a shop in town gave up. You can read up on the whole process here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?147040-IL-M1009-Will-Not-Start


Initially it was still the stock 24v starting system completely. The shop managed to do enough damage that I eliminated the GP Resistor, replaced the GP Relay, Starter Relay (DogHead Mod), and because the GP Card has issues, I performed a manual GP Push Button, so now its 12v except the starter itself. Also installed 8 new AC 60Gs and a spin on fuel filter mod.


They had installed a new 24v Starter after frying a new 12v Starter and because it was having issues engaging I had to replace the flywheel/flex plate because of worn and chipped teeth.


Listen to this video clip of 3 start cycles...does the whine/chirp at the end sound right?


 
#2 ·
Hard to tell. Kind of sounds like a chirp from the belt slipping for a second. Take the belts off and see if it still does it. Narrows it down to whether is belt/accessory related or engine/starter. I've found that the belts on my CUCV don't like to stay tight and require re-tightening.
 
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#3 ·
Doesn;t sound like belts to me, sounds more like an engagement problem, or more properly a disengagement problem.
 
#4 ·
a disengagement problem.
Agree, like the starter gear is hanging up on the flexplate, maybe it needs a shim.
I don't think the motor is turning enough rpms at that point to make a squeal
 
#5 ·
To me it sounds like a shim is needed. Wish mine started that quick, hope the new ip will help
 
#6 ·
It has one shim and person before cut the front mounting bracket so I had to fab a new one out of angle iron. I'm a little reluctant to add a second shim.


I also have a new spare 12v Starter for my own CUCV that I converted to 12v during a Civy Engine donor swap.


Since the starter is the only 24v piece left he has given me permission to finish converting to 12v so for no more trouble than it is to drop the starter I might as well give it a shot.
 
#7 ·
It has one shim and person before cut the front mounting bracket so I had to fab a new one out of angle iron. I'm a little reluctant to add a second shim.
.
Usually no shims are needed, have you tried with out any shims?
 
#8 ·
Sounds like 24v CUCV starters are being made in China now
 
#12 ·
The non GR starter bracket is almost impossible to find since about 2 years ago. Fabbing one might be your best bet, or check the for sale section here, you might get lucky
 
#17 ·
Swapped the 24v starter out with a new Autolite 12v. The solenoid wire pulled out of a improperly installed butt connector so had to replace that.

Fabbed up a new dual battery bracket out of angle iron, drilled and mounted it to the rear CUCV tray.




Reconfigured the battery cable to 12v.

it was about 29 degrees this morning. Did a 20 count on the manual Glow Plug Button and started and died. Did another and it fired right up and idled good.

No more starter engagement noise.

Shut it off to glue rear view mirror bracket on. Went inside to eat some lunch. Came out (did not climb in the cab) did a 15 count and it fired right up and again idled good.

Going to drive it in to work tomorrow so will see how it starts around 0600 when its colder that a Witches...

Still need to come up with a front starter bracket for a non GR starter.
 
#22 ·
it was about 29 degrees this morning. Did a 20 count on the manual Glow Plug Button and started and died. Did another and it fired right up and idled good.
This is how mine starts at 30 degrees except I only count to 12.
I have no idea what kind of glows I have in it right now but I know they work.
I have a set of Duraterms to go in when these crap out.
 
#18 ·
All the old starters didn;t need shims and had no alignment issues. It seems like these kinds of posts are popping up more and more
 
#20 ·
Sounds good, but even with 60gs you shouldn't need 20 secs. Doesn't really hurt I guess except for wearing them out quicker
 
#23 · (Edited)
Did a 10 count this afternoon, It fired but didnt start. Did a second 10 count and it started right up. So try a 12 count in the morning and see how it reacts.


Low Coolant lamp is on now so, need to wait for it to cool down.

Also need a gear selector piece - it was broke and now gone.

Any word on the starter bracket?
 
#24 · (Edited)
Low coolant sensor is on the passenger side rad tank about 8 inches below the fill cap. Check the black wire wasn't disrupted while you were in there if it is unplugged the light comes on. The Direct drive bracket is hard to come by at times. There was a bunch for sale on ebay a while back. If I have the time tomorrow ill take a picture of what is currently fashioned on my suburban. I received a kind gift from 68timber of a starter bracket that I havent installed yet. I will try for tomorrow.
 
#28 ·
:idea: What about mocking up a bracket with cardboard?

Some 1/2 inch angle steel, a little cutting, some welding drill a couple holes and you'd have a bracket fabricated.
 
#30 ·
Image



i have made them for several applications welding and cut/bend etc...

but for these 6.x engines...
i just trim up 2 in angle that is 1/8 to 3/16 to make brackets. for material removal drill holes to the corners you want and angle iron/cut off wheel the excess material....a roofing flash card to make a template and plot the holes works real good.

no right angle cuts...cut to the holes so it lasts longer and dont crack easily.
 
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#32 ·
That's a good cold start I'd say
 
#36 ·
jeez, gotta be one in the junk yard near you. Same for all trucks with the same trans. can;t say I've ever even looked at mine...down until it stops is D, 1 up is N and 1 up from there is R (or i down from P). All the way down is 1 and not sure I've ever used 2