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Discussion Starter #1
Here yall go, the new arsenal in CR's truck. These will be shipped out this week to the Canadian counterpoint of me, good ol Canadian Rigger.

HX35W Holset Turbo

Custom 3 inch DP

Any other people wanna take the jump into the Big Boost Club???
 

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what kind of work is involved in getting this to fit?
 

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So, you are selling a complete kit, including a reconditioned turbo, that bolts in place of the GM unit? What are we looking at performance-wise (typical boost levels, hp/stock,hp/chipped, egt levels, etc...). Options?
 

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YEP, kit for anyone, just need two weeks to get turbo, clean and refab, build pipe and paint.

The turbo's will make 35+ psi of boost with eough fuel, I have seen 29 psi on a cold day up a hill and I have a stock ECM:eek: .

This efficient turbo spools fast, no lag and it whistles LOUD and sounds very tough.
Hey Chicago....dont forget to include the "disclaimer" when you ship these out. ):h


Someday when I am rich and get my 18;1 together..i'll be giving you a holla.

:cool2:
 

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:ro) Looks good, is that a small dent on the first bend out the exhaust? Isn't the compressor side suppose to be grabber green?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:ro) Looks good, is that a small dent on the first bend out the exhaust? Isn't the compressor side suppose to be grabber green?
Ur color is what u want to put on, it is just the same stuff I put on mine and a few others that I did.

Yea, there was a "ding". It got pounded out though, its all good dude, looks sweet though.
 

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Does this mean you have to become a "limited vendor"?.. Looks schweet! I bet my stock compression engine would love one of those for about... 30 seconds
 

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YEP, kit for anyone, just need two weeks to get turbo, clean and refab, build pipe and paint.

The turbo's will make 35+ psi of boost with eough fuel, I have seen 29 psi on a cold day up a hill and I have a stock ECM:eek: .

This efficient turbo spools fast, no lag and it whistles LOUD and sounds very tough.
Did you look into getting new units directly from Holset? Probably work with you on pricing if you show them a market...
 

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I see you got him two.:) Little tip "rigger". It would be best to run your "new" engine with the old turbo till you break it in. New motors tend to have a lot of debris in the oil especially the first coupla hundred miles. This debris or dirt really eats on the turbo bearings. After your first oil change bolt'r up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did you look into getting new units directly from Holset? Probably work with you on pricing if you show them a market...
You cannot touch an HX35 for less than 900.00 new. Even when they are worn down to having the inducer wheel touch the housing, they still go for 250+.

They are pricey units no bought, but that is because they are good turbos and can run for 200k + miles without needing attention. In their bearing system, it is very well build wet bushing that gets three directed streams of oil that bath it very well.

When i turn off my truck, you hear the turbo humming through the exhaust pipe as it slowly comes to a stop, usually take 20 seconds, I can turn off the truck walk around to the back and listen to the pipe and hear that wheel spin slower and slower till it stops.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The turbo being sent out to CR is like brand new inside. The whole turbo was dissasembled, bead blasted, sonic tanked and then assembled and oiled with synthetic 15-40 and little grease on the bushings for extra insurance on start-up.
 

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With all that fuel CR will be throwing at it he should make sure to let off it easy to avoid that dreaded killer "bark"... If your really going to try and make a buck off this thing Chicago, you might want to contact someone like High Tech Turbo for good rebuilt units instead of selling "inspected" units. As a side note, they will make 35 PSI, but they are getting out of their efficiency maps at that PSI. Also remember that 35 PSI on a 6.5 isn't equal to 35 PSI on a Cummins in terms of shaft speed. CR's new engine doesn't need to be injesting it's new toy too soon...
 

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With all that fuel CR will be throwing at it he should make sure to let off it easy to avoid that dreaded killer "bark"... If your really going to try and make a buck off this thing Chicago, you might want to contact someone like High Tech Turbo for good rebuilt units instead of selling "inspected" units. As a side note, they will make 35 PSI, but they are getting out of their efficiency maps at that PSI. Also remember that 35 PSI on a 6.5 isn't equal to 35 PSI on a Cummins in terms of shaft speed. CR's new engine doesn't need to be injesting it's new toy too soon...
The WH1C was more prone to the barking and snapping thing.

I am not saying that CR is going to run 35 psi down the interstate all the time, maybe doing a dyno run but that is it. Cruising, like me, he will be at 24-26 psi max.

These units are not just "inspected", they are measured with precision, I have $12,000.00 in measuring instruments at work and a state-of-the art $16,000 optical comparitor (my work owns) that is accurate to measure within .0001" of an inch.
 

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I don't think i'll be running any more than 15 PSI for the first 3000 miles, maybe less.
 

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With all that fuel CR will be throwing at it he should make sure to let off it easy to avoid that dreaded killer "bark"...
Please explain, -Just what IS this "killer bark" that everyone keeps talking about anyway??

Also remember that 35 PSI on a 6.5 isn't equal to 35 PSI on a Cummins in terms of shaft speed. CR's new engine doesn't need to be injesting it's new toy too soon...
You mean spinning the turbo up to get 35 psi on a larger displacement engine (6.5 vs 5.9) -may overspeed the turbo and frag it on the larger of the two engines?? -I'm confused and want to learn, -am I even close??

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Please explain, -Just what IS this "killer bark" that everyone keeps talking about anyway??


You mean spinning the turbo up to get 35 psi on a larger displacement engine (6.5 vs 5.9) -may overspeed the turbo and frag it on the larger of the two engines?? -I'm confused and want to learn, -am I even close??

Thanks in advance.
The bark is when the turbo is at high boost and then the fuel is quickly removed which stops the exhaust gases. Since the exhaust gas is removed, the turbo is not propelled anymore and it slows down rapidly. This quick deceleration causes tremendous tortional twist on the turbine shaft. This quick deceleration even makes a “barking” noise that is VERY distinct.


About the difference in the engine sizes, I have no idea where that is headed. The amount of gases to power the tubine is the same to make 35 psi of boost on a 5.9 or a 6.5. There should be no difference EXCEPT the 6.5 should make it spool faster, that is it.
 

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Bark is what happens when the turbo is spinning very quickly, making big boost, and you abruptly release the throttle. Engine rpms drop, and the airflow demand diminishes very quickly. The air coming out of the turbo basically stacks back against the impeller blades, trying to spin it in the opposite direction. You hear a "bark" or a "fart" or "fluttering" noise as the air pressure escapes. It has the potential to do some serious damage to your turbo. (ie: break blades or bend or even snap the turbine shaft."

Believe it or not, I'd swear I heard my basically stock 6.5 barking at me when I was plowing snow the other night. I was kinda surprised to hear it, and thought at first I was imagining it. But I heard it a few times when I was pushing back a snow bank and would let off abruptly.
 

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Please explain, -Just what IS this "killer bark" that everyone keeps talking about anyway??


You mean spinning the turbo up to get 35 psi on a larger displacement engine (6.5 vs 5.9) -may overspeed the turbo and frag it on the larger of the two engines?? -I'm confused and want to learn, -am I even close??

Thanks in advance.
You'll hear the "bark" at a tractor pull when the driver shuts down the throttle from WOT to idle, instantly. (Although, sometimes that is up to four turbos doing that at once).
 
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