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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
got my cross-over fixed, had codes i thought were assoctiated wth the leaking pipe. didn't get them cleared yet, but is there a limp mode for for the waste gate?

im not getting any vacum to my actuator. so is there a limp mode that will keep boost pressure low or is there something elese wrong? i never had any boost problems till the leaking cross-over.
 

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Check your vacuum before the solenoid. If you have it there, and not after the solenoid, then look for solenoid related issue. No vacuum before solenoid indicates leak or bad vacuum pump.
 

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Limp mode defuels not de boosts, if PCM can't control boost properly either over or under boost, PCM's tier 2 engine protection is to defuel, as KNK says troubleshoot the entire vac system (see FAQ for more info)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
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i had the codes cleared today(the code is p0236, something about turbo efficancy?), the vacum ame back on to my actuator but still blowing smoke :mad:. (i never had black smoke before with the stock cross-over no mater how hard i tried!!) i now have a whistle coming from my truck(its not the turbo) it seem to be comming from the same place it came from before where the crossover was broken. when i came home i was taking a look and noticed that the people that put my cross-over on used about 6 washers per stud to get the new one bolted on?

and it almost looks like the cut some of my manifold flange off!!! does anyone have a pic of a good manifold flange?

im putting the truck in the garage tomorrow and taking a closer look!!

how does the slightly bigger cross-over fit to the old manifold, it looks like they crushed my new gaskets too much
 

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the people that put my cross-over on used about 6 washers per stud to get the new one bolted on?
What looks like a stack of washers is probably springs.

The exhaust crossover is fastened to the manifolds with spring bolts.
 

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6 washers per stud doesn't sound rite, mine has no washers, springs or otherwise, did they forget to put in the exhaust donut and have too much stud and used washers to make up difference, black smoke is too much fuel no air, wire the WG shut to see if it clears, but last maint action was cross over replacement, I suspect a exhaust leak still and turbo isn't spooling up properly
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thats what im thinking still leaking
 

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6 washers per stud doesn't sound rite, mine has no washers, springs or otherwise, did they forget to put in the exhaust donut and have too much stud and used washers to make up difference, black smoke is too much fuel no air, wire the WG shut to see if it clears, but last maint action was cross over replacement, I suspect a exhaust leak still and turbo isn't spooling up properly
Lots have forgot the springs your mech did too, by the look of things...

I still wager his has the right parts (springs) iffen he really looks at it hard.

At any rate, if you think things ain't right, on a cold start feel around the connections for exhaust escaping.
 

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CHB, neither of my 98s have/had springs I did the remove & install of both of my crossovers myself, I would have remembered springs my truck only had 37K on it when I bought it in 2000, factory pipe was still on it when I pulled it, Burb also had factory pipe on it though it was 130K when I bought it

IPER has a 98 I'll wager his had no springs from factory either,

Iper you could wire the wastegate shut for test but I suspect it is leaking & it still won't make boost. last maint item and big performance difference it is always a good idea to look closer at what was worked on to make sure the job was completed properly,
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i played with it a little tonite, yeah there was a unch of washers on the studs... i pulled the crossover off and the studs were loose i took them out with my fingers, they didnt put them in all the way.. they came close to ruining my new gaskets(still might need more) they didnt even clean up the mating surface on the manifold... i screwed the studs in as far as i could(whats the est way to tighten them into the manafold, i messed up 2 studs putting them into the manifold not completly. i put the nuts on them and screwed them in but i didnt notice on 2 of them the restane i felt was the stud being in all the way so i tightened the nut to the cenet part and cant get them back off. any ideas?

not good to work angry....lol
 

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CHB, neither of my 98s have/had springs I did the remove & install of both of my crossovers myself, I would have remembered springs my truck only had 37K on it when I bought it in 2000, factory pipe was still on it when I pulled it, Burb also had factory pipe on it though it was 130K when I bought it

Could be an earlier model accouterment, I suppose, but the service manual for 94 shows the springs used in both diesel and gas engines for the manifold to pipe union. I got a kit from NAPA when I replaced my crossover that included the studs and springs.

The manual describes the connection between manifold and crossover as a "ball joint type connection". I suspect the springs allow for a slightly less than perfect alignment, or perhaps to maintain proper torque on the donuts as they crush or waste away slightly, or whatever it is, that donuts do...

Can't honestly say that I know if they were ever part of the makeup of a newer model though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
today i fixed it completly the person never completly put the studs into the manifolds so he used the washers to make up the differenc.:mad:

i took are of all of that, but iam having low boost now, bad solonoid i beleive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
im leaning towards my solinoid going bad, im getting all r notihng for boost at the actuator. 25 before solonoid, 0 at actuator sometimes 20.
 

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im leaning towards my solinoid going bad, im getting all r notihng for boost at the actuator. 25 before solonoid, 0 at actuator sometimes 20.
I believe there is a little ball bearing in the solenoid and it gets rusty and sticks, try spraying the crap out of it and it might loosen it up. If this doesn't work just replace it.
 
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