[DMAX2DAMAX]

I decided to try turning up the factory keys that came on the truck before spending any money on an alternative (green keys, lift kit, etc.). In less than 1 hour I was able to raise the front 1 3/4" and still have at least 5/8" of adjustment threads left. When I raised the front the rear went down 1/2". At the same time, within the one-hour, I put on 4 Chrome H2 17x8.5 wheels with 315/70R/17 BFG tires and my original center caps. I had to tie back the parking brake cable and trim the bottom of the air dam.

The final height with the torsion bars cranked and the new tires is 4 1/4" higher in front than stock and sits almost level. If anything the front appears slightly higher which is what I wanted. The ride is exactly the same IMHO which may not be worth much, but my wife has ridden in it 3 times since done and she says that it feels the same to her. I now have the look/stance/ride I want and no more $$$$.

Check the pictures in my link!! I'm very happy!!

2DAMAX

 

[Wickedsprint]

Is that bad for the torsion bars or spring life??

 

[DMAX2DAMAX]

It's too soon for me to say with certainty but I asked around and read quite a bit before I did it. The consensus answer to your question seems to be "no" as long as you don't exceed 2" of lift by cranking up the torsion bars. I stopped at 1 3/4" intentionally for that reason. Another concern I've seen/heard is that you don't use up all the adjustment threads. I don't remeber the exact reason for that concern, I think it has to do with the travel up and down of the front suspension but I'm not certain on that one. I still have at least 5/8" of thread left so I think I'm ok.

I've also seen/heard that a greater/another concern is that you don't exceed 2" because of the angle of the front axle half shafts. Again the consensus is you're fine if you don't exceed the 2". In any event, it's a good idea to keep an eye on them.


Hopefully others will chime in with more details but for me I'm very satisfied!!

2DAMAX

 

[bybycop]

Yeah,


I to did the same exact thing. It seriously looks and feels like a real 4x4 truck. When I put the 325/60R18 Grapplers the tire store didnt charge me anything extra to turn the torsion bars or to do the hacking to make them fit. The ride is a tad more stiff but it is more than worth it!!!!!!

Most tire stores I talked to werent going to charge me any extra to do that stuff.


If you have an questions feel free to ask or PM me. Check out my pics and you can see how much it lifts it.


Mike

 

[VFRRider]

Someone on another board had mentioned that you can move the front bumper forward by using I believe 3/4" spacers.. Has anyone tried it?? Is it a big deal?? I'm definately leaning toward H2 setup, not too keen on carving the airdam, since it has a finished edge. Inquiring minds want to know

.


Mike

 

[BassinRVer]

I have moved the front bumber forward by 2 inches. Edited by: BassinRVer

 

[hoot]

Cranking the bars raises the truck by turning the bars. This does not increase the twist in them because the truck going up is the opposite reaction.

For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.

Crank them too much and the A-arm gets closer to it's travel stop.

Fortunately GM redesigned the suspension in the 99-up trucks to accomidate adjustment on a grander scale. They changed some geometry and switched to a longer/softer bump stop. They even advertised tha ability to change the front height to accomidate upfitters and haulers.

 

[DMAX2DAMAX]

VFRRider wrote:


"I'm definately leaning toward H2 setup, not too keen on carving the airdam, since it has a finished edge."


Trimming the air dam was not a problem on mine. The finished cut edge looks just as good as the original. No one can tell except that the right angle is gone.


I had more concern with the tires hitting at the rear of the front fender at the bottom of the inner fender. I had to tap the sheet metal behind the inner fender back a bit to get adequate clearance. Then when I mounted my Husky Splash Guards I had to trim them off in the same place or they would have consumed the clearance I gained by tapping back the sheet metal behind inner fender.


2DAMAX

 

[Camstyn]

I found that once doing some very minor trimming to the airdam (looks great IMHO, no worse than stock) and cutting a bit on the front of the drivers side inner fender, there is lots of clearance up front. The back is the problem. I had to do a fair amount of trimming at the back (only took 5 minutes anyways), popped the plastic snaps out at the bottom of each one, and tucked the plastic fender liner in behind the sheet metal. No rubbing whatsoever now, it worked out great. I can take pics if my description doesn't portray it well.

 

[DMAX2DAMAX]

Camstyn,


I saw your pic's on another thread and the truck looks great. Do you plan on splash guards cause I didn't see any in the pics? I took advice from GMC-2002-Dmax and got some on mine before I chipped the dog out of my paint.

2DAMAX

 

[Lightning]

Do you have any close-ups of the trimming on the rear of the front fenders that you can post. Thanks...

 

[DMAX2DAMAX]

I'll take a couple close ups of both tomorrow when I have better light.


2DAMAX

 

[hdmax]

I had to go with the green keys because I could get only 3/4" or so and the bolts were topped out. Also for thoughs that are lifting/raising the front more then an inch should have the front end allignment checked. Thoughs 33-35" tires aren't cheap.

 

[DMAX2DAMAX]

hdmax,


Right on about the alignment! I raised mine 1 3/4" and alignment was needed for toe in & out plus camber! She rides real good now!


2DAMAX

 

[Camstyn]

Camstyn,


I saw your pic's on another thread and the truck looks great. Do you plan on splash guards cause I didn't see any in the pics? I took advice from GMC-2002-Dmax and got some on mine before I chipped the dog out of my paint.

2DAMAX

Thanks for the compliment.. I'm thinking about getting some Putco 12.5" wide mudflaps but I'm thinking that the front tires will rub on them like they did the inner fenders, at the bottom where I tucked them in behind the sheet metal. I'll probably give them a shot and if they don't work, I'll turn the torsion bars some more or else just live with the forecoming rock chips.

 

[DMAX2DAMAX]

Lightning,


Here's the close up of the trim of the Husky Splash Guard and the tap back spot of the inner fender. I also took a shot of the air dam trim.


2DAMAX

 

[1967gto]

Hey dmax2damax, Did you need to do anything to the rear? And as far as the front trimming goes,was it just a little off the bottom or was there some major cutting? I have the Husky Guards on and would like to know if it is possible to keep them. And is there any way of adjusting the ratio in the trans, Going from stock to the h2's the ratio is off 12% so 60 is really 67? As always Thanks Ed
Edited by: hog1340hd

 

[Camstyn]

I found that the ratio was off 14%, anyone have a definite answer on that? I'd like to know so I can figure out my fuel mileage properly..


Thanks for the pics of the splash guard!


Cam

 

[DMAX2DAMAX]

hog1340hd,


I didn't need to trim anything on the rear. I trimmed the front air dam on an angle from about 1" at the bottom up to almost nothing at the top. I tapped the lower fender sheet metal back to allow the plastic inner fender to move back about 3/8" but didn't have to trim any metal. I did trim the Husky splash guards a bit to avoid the screw in the pic above where the plastic inner fender is screwed to the lower fender.


I used the Quadzilla Stealth tuner to correct for the speedo and got a few extra horses in the deal.


2DAMAX

 

[Jeli]

I used a GPS to check mine and came up with 13% give or take. My GPS measurements came out almost exactly as the calculators available at 4lo.com. Until I come up with enough skins for a Quad I have a business label with the speedo vs reality numbers on my visor...poor man's conversion.