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I just rolled over 100k, put ole Silver on a diet and had a basic tune installed. Other than Oil Pan leaks (warranty repair) and DEF heater failure (warranty repair) I've never had any issues with this truck. I had the above modifications completed to eliminate the dead pedal and improve fuel economy. Since the day I bought this truck I've had folks warn me about the impending CP4 failures and the 10K plus bill that comes with it. Since it was under warranty I never worried because given the number of trucks on the road with the CP4 it seemed the failure rate was minor. Now that I'm out of warranty it seems more important for me to take steps to prevent the destruction of my injectors, maybe.

I found one single video online showing how to install the Exergy MPROP, it was a start but not near detailed enough for me, I watched the bosch CP 4 video to convince myself that this would be some basic insurance against contaminating the rest of the fuel system in the event of a failure.

<<<<< Fixed Vane Duramax install video

Anyway if your interested here's some images and step by step of how I completed the job.

Tools needed.
1/2” Drive Breaker Bar—Used to move serpentine belt tensioner.
3/8” drive ratchet, 6” & 3” 3/8” drive Extension, 15MM & 13 MM 3/8” drive sockets
1/4” drive ratchet, w/1/4” socket
Extra-long Torx 25 T-Handle wrench, 6” Torx 25 bit seen below, was just long enough with my 1/4” drive ratchet to remove the MPROP retainer screws
Step Stool unless your 7’ tall
Grabber Claw or telescoping magnet

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1. Insert 1/2” Drive breaker bar drive lug into serpentine belt tensioner on the left hand side of the engine and release tension and remove belt from AC Compressor.
On my 2016 I let the tension rest on my fan shroud until I put the belt back on.
2. Disconnect AC Compressor "Electrical" connections as well as the "Electrical" connector on the AC Compressor hard line seen below.
3. Use 3/8” drive ratchet, 6” extension and 15 MM socket and remove 4 AC Compressor bolts, set the bolts aside.
4. Lift the AC Compressor out of its bracket and lay it over on top of the engine. Do NOT disconnect the freon lines!

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5. Use 3/8” drive ratchet, 3” extension w/13 MM socket remove hose bracket bolt seen at the top of the photo above, set bolt aside.
6. Use 3/8” drive ratchet, 3” extension w/13 MM socket remove two 13 MM bolts and set aside.
7. You could also remove the electrical connection from the generator, it will allow you to move the AC/Generator Harness out of the way.

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Seen Below the CP4 Inlet Metering Valve (FCA/MPROP)
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8. If you haven’t done so already disconnect the electrical connection from the generator #1
9. Not sure what #2 is but it pulls up out of the clip and push it to the back out of your way.
10. Disconnect #3 and remove it from between the two hoses, this will give your better clearance to the screw.
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11. I also used a ratched and 13MM socket and removed the bracket that held item #2 to give me better access to the screws.
12. Once I removed that bracket I used an air compressor to blow away as much debris as I could in this area.
13. Using a flashlight, the 6” T25 Torx bit and my 1/4” drive ratchet with 1/4” socket I broke both screws loose.
14. I then used the T25 bit by hand to loosen the screws up until they where free
15. I used a 8” grab claw to retrieve both screws and set them aside, I couldn’t find my telescoping magnet...

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16. Grasp the metering valve and slowly rock it out of it’s seat.

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17. For Reference here’s a side by side of both metering valves.

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18. I positioned the new metering valve in the same direction and slowly rocked it back and fourth to seat it.
19. I used the grab claw and a whole lot of patience to put the retainer screws back where they belong.
20. I used the 6” T25 Torx bit and hand tightened the screws, I then snugged them up using the 1/4” ratchet with the 1/4” socket.

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21. I simply reversed the steps above to re assemble everything.
22. The hardest part from this was getting the Serpentine belt back on the AC Compressor.

I did not prime the system, I simply got in and started it up, it took several more cranks but it started, I let it idle for a few minutes and then took it out on a test drive. I came home and parked it and let it sit for an hour, I checked the area for leaks and didn't see any, got in the truck and it started right up.


2016 Silverado HD WT, CCSB, 4x4, Silver, 100HP EZ Lynk tune
2007 Silverado HD WT, CCLB, 2wd, White, Bone Stock
 

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Great write-up!
I added this in the LML FAQ page (y)
 
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