[Krazy Ken]

Looks like I am due for a new fan clutch. I have come up with two GM parts numbers. The first being 15102145 (AC Delco 15-4986) and 15130067 (AC Delco 15-4964). Can anyone tell me what the differences are between these two fan clutches? Thanks.

 

[Kennedy]

Never paid much attention to the GM part numbers, but I listed our fan clutches quite simply as 06-10 LBZ and LMM (pickup) to make things easy.

 

[Ramblinrodney]

Check out Kennedy's sale price.
GM Part No.: 15102145 (ACDelco #15-4986) CLUTCH, Engine Air Cooling Fan
This part fits the following vehicle options: Fitting Vehicle Options: CK2,3(LBZ)

 

[LBZjunkie]

I got a severe duty at O'Reillys, lifetime warranty, cheaper than the dealer, same manufacturer as the dealer, and being the severe duty it comes on slightly quicker than the one that came on the truck from the factory. So far I'm happy with it. Being from AZ you might like it.

 

[Krazy Ken]

I got a severe duty at O'Reillys, lifetime warranty, cheaper than the dealer, same manufacturer as the dealer, and being the severe duty it comes on slightly quicker than the one that came on the truck from the factory. So far I'm happy with it. Being from AZ you might like it.

Orielly's fan clutches used to be made by Hayden many years ago when they changed from Checker auto parts to Orielly Auto Parts. I don't know who makes them now, as they are boxed in a Murray package. I changed out an aftermarket fan clutch on a buddies LLY last year to an OEM one because it would lock up going down the freeway without a load or trailer hooked up. It killed his fuel mileage and he complained about the fan roar all the time. He said I could have it if I wanted but I think I'm going to stick with an OEM fan clutch for this go around. I am not against aftermarket fan clutches as I have used them on other vehicles with good luck in the past.

 

[Krazy Ken]

Check out Kennedy's sale price.
GM Part No.: 15102145 (ACDelco #15-4986) CLUTCH, Engine Air Cooling Fan
This part fits the following vehicle options: Fitting Vehicle Options: CK2,3(LBZ)

Thanks, I will go with the GM Part No.: 15102145 (ACDelco #15-4986) fan clutch. I will get one ordered today.

 

[aztrooper]

I am having the same problem with my 2006 Silverado 2500HD LBZ. It will heat up at anything over 10 pounds of boost. I live in the Phoenix valley area and driving up SR87 to Payson, the speed limit is 65mph. There are three 6% long grades. I can't maintain 65mph going up the hills with out slowing down to keep the boost under 10lbs and keep the coolant temp under 200. If the boost goes up to 12lbs or more for any length of time, the temps will go up over 212 degrees. I never hear the fan clutch cut in even when I first start it up after sitting overnight. It has been up to 235 when pulling my travel trailer once so I had to slow down to about 50 to keep the boost down so it would cool off. I read some posts about the Hayden 2850 fan clutch. I checked Ebay and they had one for $91 and change. I then checked my local OReilly's and they listed a Murray fan clutch with the same part number, 2850, so Murray must get them from Hayden. The specs on the Murray were exactly the same as the Hayden and it was only $74.99. I will pick it up on Monday and we will see if that changes things. Oh, I changed both thermostats last week and that didn't change it. I checked the old thermostats by putting them in a pot of boiling water and they both opened perfectly.

 

[dmax3500]

did anybody flush out the cooling stack yet,?

 

[LBZjunkie]

I am having the same problem with my 2006 Silverado 2500HD LBZ. It will heat up at anything over 10 pounds of boost. I live in the Phoenix valley area and driving up SR87 to Payson, the speed limit is 65mph. There are three 6% long grades. I can't maintain 65mph going up the hills with out slowing down to keep the boost under 10lbs and keep the coolant temp under 200. If the boost goes up to 12lbs or more for any length of time, the temps will go up over 212 degrees. I never hear the fan clutch cut in even when I first start it up after sitting overnight. It has been up to 235 when pulling my travel trailer once so I had to slow down to about 50 to keep the boost down so it would cool off. I read some posts about the Hayden 2850 fan clutch. I checked Ebay and they had one for $91 and change. I then checked my local OReilly's and they listed a Murray fan clutch with the same part number, 2850, so Murray must get them from Hayden. The specs on the Murray were exactly the same as the Hayden and it was only $74.99. I will pick it up on Monday and we will see if that changes things. Oh, I changed both thermostats last week and that didn't change it. I checked the old thermostats by putting them in a pot of boiling water and they both opened perfectly.

I put a Murray 2850 on mine and actually just finished a 2 week trip across the south, no coolant problems. Not sure how rt17 out of Camp Verde compares but that was a long steep climb, temp was never over 200 on the gauge. When the fan does come on my trans. would come down to 165 ish also. Been good for me

 

[Krazy Ken]

I installed the 15102145 fan clutch a couple weeks ago but I was going to wait until I towed with it to give an update. Those same hills on the 87 to Payson combined with the short grade from Payson to Heber are a doozy. I can tell though the fan clutch is pulling alot more air than my old worn out one. Trans Temps as well as Coolant temps dropped. Also A/C blows colder than before.

 

[Krazy Ken]

did anybody flush out the cooling stack yet,?

I changed the coolant and inspected for debris when I Installed the trans cooler lines in the radiator shortly after I got the truck. I can check that off the list knowing the coolant is fresh. I kicked around the idea of distilled water with the Redline Diesel Water Wetter but I wont resort to that unless it still gets warm towing.

 

[aztrooper]

did anybody flush out the cooling stack yet,?

It's supposed to be 120 degrees here in the Phoenix valley. Don't think I will be out doing that. When I get the fan clutch in, I will have access to the back of the radiator so will check it out then. If the fan clutch makes it run cooler, I'll wait until this fall to do the stack. I have used a pressure washer thru the front and the intercooler looked clean then but can't see the front of the radiator with out taking it all apart. I might blow some air thru the back side or the radiator when I'm changing the fan clutch.

 

[rmoore0852]

I am having the same problem with my 2006 Silverado 2500HD LBZ. It will heat up at anything over 10 pounds of boost. I live in the Phoenix valley area and driving up SR87 to Payson, the speed limit is 65mph. There are three 6% long grades. I can't maintain 65mph going up the hills with out slowing down to keep the boost under 10lbs and keep the coolant temp under 200. If the boost goes up to 12lbs or more for any length of time, the temps will go up over 212 degrees. I never hear the fan clutch cut in even when I first start it up after sitting overnight. It has been up to 235 when pulling my travel trailer once so I had to slow down to about 50 to keep the boost down so it would cool off. I read some posts about the Hayden 2850 fan clutch. I checked Ebay and they had one for $91 and change. I then checked my local OReilly's and they listed a Murray fan clutch with the same part number, 2850, so Murray must get them from Hayden. The specs on the Murray were exactly the same as the Hayden and it was only $74.99. I will pick it up on Monday and we will see if that changes things. Oh, I changed both thermostats last week and that didn't change it. I checked the old thermostats by putting them in a pot of boiling water and they both opened perfectly.

Those temps actually sound about right when pulling a good load. These engines really generate heat when they are working hard. I'm pulling a 14k lb fifth wheel. In the west TX summer, I run 210 just going down the flat highway at 65 mph. Pulling any kind of significant hill, I will hit 230-235. At this point, you can really hear the fan fully engage. The fan starts roaring, then temps start coming down to about 215-220 even if I am still going up the grade. I have read somewhere that one of the thermostats is not even fully opened until above 220.


Also keep in mind, when it is 110 outside, the air getting to the radiator is probably 150 or higher. It is being heated by the transmission cooler, AC condenser, and intercooler before it ever even gets to the radiator. The higher the boost, the hotter the compressed intake air is.


Clean your cooling stack by REMOVING it. You cannot clean it well while it is still sandwiched in there.


I am also considering the Hayden, but IMHO temps up to 235 are fine as long as they cool back down once the fan engages. Temps of 210 while towing are completely normal and nothing to worry about.

 

[aztrooper]

Those temps actually sound about right when pulling a good load.

I guess you missed the part about that is when I am empty going up the hills. I have several friends that live here and say they can pull the same hills with work trailers weighing 6K pounds and their temps only go up five degrees if that.

Clean your cooling stack by REMOVING it.
I am aware that to "do it right", I have to remove it but I'm not doing that in 120 degree weather. I believe that I can get it somewhat clear, if it is block by debris, when I take the fan off to change the clutch and then blowing air thru it from the backside. Will not hurt. Again, I don't hear the fan clutch working at all, from cold start up to when it gets hot. I have read that 235 degrees is getting to the edge of safety before blowing head gaskets. Not going there. Thanks for all the ideas.

 

[rmoore0852]

I am having the same problem with my 2006 Silverado 2500HD LBZ. It will heat up at anything over 10 pounds of boost. I live in the Phoenix valley area and driving up SR87 to Payson, the speed limit is 65mph. There are three 6% long grades. I can't maintain 65mph going up the hills with out slowing down to keep the boost under 10lbs and keep the coolant temp under 200. If the boost goes up to 12lbs or more for any length of time, the temps will go up over 212 degrees. I never hear the fan clutch cut in even when I first start it up after sitting overnight. It has been up to 235 when pulling my travel trailer once so I had to slow down to about 50 to keep the boost down so it would cool off. I read some posts about the Hayden 2850 fan clutch. I checked Ebay and they had one for $91 and change. I then checked my local OReilly's and they listed a Murray fan clutch with the same part number, 2850, so Murray must get them from Hayden. The specs on the Murray were exactly the same as the Hayden and it was only $74.99. I will pick it up on Monday and we will see if that changes things. Oh, I changed both thermostats last week and that didn't change it. I checked the old thermostats by putting them in a pot of boiling water and they both opened perfectly.

Yup, guess I missed where you hit 235 empty...... We can only offer advice based on the information we are given. It may be 120 there in AZ, we ONLY got to 110 this last weekend here in west TX. Figured you would appreciate some input from someone towing in almost exactly the conditions you described. You should definitely be hearing the fan roaring when you get that hot though.