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Some of you might remember my post awhile back about overheating while towing a camper with my 95 Tahoe and wondering who's kit was better Heaths or SS. Well I went with Heath mainly because of better customer service but anyway I did the job this weekend and thanks to some helpful people on this sight I checked the Rad also. I have to admit from the outside it didn't look that dirty and I was skeptical but look at thses pics. You could not see this stuff without removing the rad. I did not trying towing yet. Probably tommorow. The Heath kit went it pretty good except the one of two nuts on the back of the PS pump sucked and the nut on the lower Vacuum pump bracket. All in all not bad . MAybe 3-4 hrs total with cleaning included. Check out the pics though.
 

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Tis True,,,, even if they look good,,,, you should yank and clean them!
Good Job mate,,,, now get to towing!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Tommorow...............

The testdrive. Will report results.
 

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So ace....how did you flush the inside of it out? I want to clean mine at some point and really want to know the best way to do it.
 

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you can get some prestone stuff to add to system,,,,, drive a few days ,,, then flush,,,, when its out, put the hose to it,for a good flush,, or swing by your local radiator shop to have them hot tank it if its really gross in there,,,,
 

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Pruittx2;1921044; said:
you can get some prestone stuff to add to system,,,,, drive a few days ,,, then flush,,,, when its out, put the hose to it,for a good flush,, or swing by your local radiator shop to have them hot tank it if its really gross in there,,,,
Is this the foam stuff I've heard about? Any idea what it's called?
 

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IIRC it was "oven cleaner foam" applied to the exterior rad fins to get the bug juice off and other such stuff.
 

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acesneights1;1920754; said:
MAybe 3-4 hrs total with cleaning included.
WOW. I'm impressed. I have a '95 Tahoe as well, and I have held off on the install because some have reported it was an 8-10 hour install and was a bear. Did you take photos?

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 

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Pruittx2;1920769; said:
Tis True,,,, even if they look good,,,, you should yank and clean them!

We keep repeating this thread over and over ... and there's always somebody new who says "I didn't have to pull mine - I got it all clean without doing that."

Usually, the same guy ends up posting back that he's still overheating, which greatly lessens my sympathy factor.

Good job on pulling yours right out, on taking pictures, and on posting them for us all to see!! Good job also for posting about the install on the new Heath cooling package; I think you're the first guy to post actual experience with installing it (there has been lots of speculation, but few hard facts).

Regarding the 'foam cleaner', there are several brands of commercial AC coil cleaners, most are self-foaming. You can also use DOW Scrubbing-bubbles Basin-Tub-Tile cleaner, in a pinch. These work good on the outside of the rad; make sure you soak it up good, let is soak to soften stuff up, then wash off with a hose. Leaf blowers or diffused air sprayershelp to get the sand out of the fins.

Use extreme caution with pressure washers or compressed air - you can mangle fins pretty easy.

As Pruittx2 says, "Good Job mate,,,, now get to towing!!!"
 

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Are guys talking about that "flush" stuff in the coolant system? I did that once to a previous car, and then did a water pump a few weeks later after the seal let go. Don't know if the two were related or not... but makes me wonder.

I've heard years ago that you can use automatic dishwasher detergent for a few days to help clean stuff out....... but I don't know truth or tale on that one. Anybody have any reports good or bad on that?
 

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knkreb;1921310; said:
I've heard years ago that you can use automatic dishwasher detergent for a few days to help clean stuff out....... but I don't know truth or tale on that one. Anybody have any reports good or bad on that?
Thats funny,,, My mom used to run a dishwasher empty with some TANG in it to clean it out,,,, Yeah Try some Tang on the Rad! LOL:p:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well the facts are in on cooling.........

It's about 80-85 and low humidity today here in North East Connecticut. Took the camper up on the highway to a coulple big hills with the Tahoe. It was definitalty better but not 100%. I think it is probably as good as I can expect. On level pulling fine stayed religoiusly at 185. On the Hills it climbed at max to 220 where as before it hit 235 and it definatly returned to normal quicker. Did the Heath Kit make the difference ? I don't know. I know they support this forum and they are good guys to deal with but in my honest opinion I did not see a difference in the waterpumps. The impellar was the same size as my old one, The veins were the same size and although to be fair I could'nt actually measure the pitch on the impellar, it looked the same also. However the new waterpump has the large threaded stud to accomodate the new cooling fan vs the 4 5/16 studs on the old one. Does the fan pull more air ? Hard to say. I actually thought it was quieter than my old fan but it is compsite as the old one was steel. I suspect someone may have tried changing the fan before I owned it as it was a 6 blade and when it kicked in.You heard it. I hear the new one but not exceptionally loud. I did not clean the radiator, I replaced it with a brand new one. However the old one looked spotless inside so I am not tossing it. I powerwashed and air blew the ac condensor and oil coolers. I didn't pull the grille because I have the "Cheap" grille and the openings are large enough to get in there. As far as the install no I didn't do pics because I was under the gun a little to get it done but took the ones of the old rad and the condensor. I may try changing the thermostat housing to the dual thermostats. I have a 2000 gmc with that setup factory so it is a good guide to see what's involved. To those considering this job, definitely not bad at all. Like I said 3-4 hrs tops of course I have air tools which help and I didn't clean the old Rad. I dropped a new one in. I think the 220 that it hits will be bearable for short stints on steep hills.It was hot today and I purposley laid into the truck hard and had the A/C full blast. It used to hit 235 and over before.. Heath included everything you need in the kit. Gaskets were fel pro. Fan looks to be of good quality. Also Heath warns of possible clearence problems with the new fan , I think just to cover themselves in case the truck being worked on was hit or has bad mounts but It fit in my shroud with no problems and almost a 1/2 clearence. I did the t shirt test upon initial running. I held in front of the grill and it got sucked to the front of the truck at idle so that's good. Anyway hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Oh I forgot to mention

I flushed the motor by using rags to cover the timing gears and while the water pump was off I put the hose in each hole(the rubber end onn my hose nozzle was perfect fit) and flushed water till it was clear.

I did the same through the heater hoses to get the old stuff out of the heatr core although by looking at the old coolant, I stand by my suspicion that it was done before.

The water pump had definitely been changed becuase of newer paint and the prevoius mechanic actually left off the nut for the lower vacuum pump bracket(the pain in the a one) Left off the bolt to the block on rear of PS pump bracket and left off the harder to get to nut on the the back of ps pump.

Needless to say i put all this stuff back that was missing. My experience owning 6.2 is that everything needs to be bolted down properly or brackets will crack from vibration.

I'm sure you 6.2 ers know about the rear ac pump bracket on the old harrisions and the PS pump bracket at the waterpump.

TD edit for readability
 

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if someone else changed out the pump then maybe they put a HO one from the 97-98 6.5's, so you might not have seen a difference. If your new one has the screw on type fann lutch then that's the 99 and newer water pump I believe. The 6 blade fan is for sure the older 94-95 style fan.
 

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Thanks...

for the info. I wasn't sure what year went to the stud type wp and also what year they started with the high output . The price was fair for the Heath Kit for the parts I got just didn't see d difference in the waterpump but I did consider that it might already be the HO on there but wasnt sure if they made a high output with the old style fan blade. What do you think about the dual thermostat ? Heath says you don't need it but I am still running alittle hotter than I d like or is 220 under load normal ?
~K
 

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acesneights1;1921731; said:
It's about 80-85 and low humidity today here in North East Connecticut. Took the camper up on the highway to a coulple big hills with the Tahoe. It was definitalty better but not 100%. I think it is probably as good as I can expect.

On level pulling fine stayed religoiusly at 185. On the Hills it climbed at max to 220 where as before it hit 235 and it definatly returned to normal quicker. Did the Heath Kit make the difference ? I don't know. I know they support this forum and they are good guys to deal with but in my honest opinion I did not see a difference in the waterpumps.

The impellar was the same size as my old one, The veins were the same size and although to be fair I could'nt actually measure the pitch on the impellar, it looked the same also. However the new waterpump has the large threaded stud to accomodate the new cooling fan vs the 4 5/16 studs on the old one.

Does the fan pull more air ? Hard to say. I actually thought it was quieter than my old fan but it is compsite as the old one was steel. I suspect someone may have tried changing the fan before I owned it as it was a 6 blade and when it kicked in.You heard it. I hear the new one but not exceptionally loud.

I did not clean the radiator, I replaced it with a brand new one. However the old one looked spotless inside so I am not tossing it. I powerwashed and air blew the ac condensor and oil coolers. I didn't pull the grille because I have the "Cheap" grille and the openings are large enough to get in there. As far as the install no I didn't do pics because I was under the gun a little to get it done but took the ones of the old rad and the condensor.

I may try changing the thermostat housing to the dual thermostats. I have a 2000 gmc with that setup factory so it is a good guide to see what's involved. To those considering this job, definitely not bad at all. Like I said 3-4 hrs tops of course I have air tools which help and I didn't clean the old Rad. I dropped a new one in. I think the 220 that it hits will be bearable for short stints on steep hills.

It was hot today and I purposley laid into the truck hard and had the A/C full blast. It used to hit 235 and over before.. Heath included everything you need in the kit. Gaskets were fel pro.

Fan looks to be of good quality. Also Heath warns of possible clearence problems with the new fan , I think just to cover themselves in case the truck being worked on was hit or has bad mounts but It fit in my shroud with no problems and almost a 1/2 clearence.

I did the t shirt test upon initial running. I held in front of the grill and it got sucked to the front of the truck at idle so that's good. Anyway hope this helps.
Ouch you guys with these end to end posts are killin these old eyes, and my limited mental capacity to follow what it is ya'll are trying to say in one long run on thought, help a feller out will Ya. see how much better this reads & easier to follow when broken up.
 

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acesneights1;1921731; said:
I may try changing the thermostat housing to the dual thermostats.
Hi There,

I'm thinking that changing to the dual housing is the key. The reason I think so is that you are currently being restricted in flow by the amount that can be flowed through ONE thermostat, and TWO will give you a lot more flow, which would allow more coolant to reach the radiator and cool down during hard pulling.

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 

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I've heard years ago that you can use automatic dishwasher detergent for a few days to help clean stuff out....... but I don't know truth or tale on that one. Anybody have any reports good or bad on that?[/quote]

I have done this for ten years in my cummins and cat powered log trucks with no issues at all.
Just have to flush with water 3-5 times i found to get all the soap out.
Then I use de-ionized water to mix with antifreeze to help keep the ph in check.
 

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You really need to address those gushing engine-oil cooler lines B4 you venture much past the end of your driveway....................


And do a thorough harmonic balancer inspection - same with that accessory drive pulley

Good post, btw - show'n'tell rules, as you can see
 

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Hey Aces... 2 questions, since your sig doesn't have much detail on your 95 Tahoe...

1- what other mods do you have on it? 3" downpipe, exhaust, turbomaster, chip, etc

2- on these uphill excursions, is your tranny either unlocked or 'hunting'? Have you done the manual TCC lockup mod?

These are pretty relevant questions - if your boost isn't managed under load, you'll overheat, regardless of the cooling system. Same with restricted exhaust. Definitely same with TCC unlocked.

Good cooling isn't one of those things you can point to a single part with. It's a 'sum of the parts' thing. A guy I know did the 2-thermostat mod, HO pump, Dmax fan/clutch, and still overheated when pulling hard uphill. Then he did the TCC mod.

Good to go after that.
 
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