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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I know this has been mentioned before over the years, but I don't want to resurrect an old thread and I haven't found specific mention of anyone doing exactly what I've done... So I'm working on one of my good customer's '96 K2500 Sub, lots of little things to take care of, replaced crank balancer, resealed the leaking block heater, got the starter, PS pump and front driveshaft rebuilt. Went through the IP again because he's been complaining of a hard start hot, so it's fresh with new low friction poppet valve kit and FSOL coil. I've already upgraded to the dual T-stat housing and HO water pump but they work this truck hard and I've been wanting to do a cooling mod like this for ever and finally have a good opportunity.

So most of you probably know about GM 6.2s and 6.5s coolant flow problems and their tendency to run much hotter toward the back 2 cylinders. GM's "fix" for this problem was to overbore 7&8 a little to allow for more thermal expansion, but obviously fixing the problem rather than covering it up would be better. There are a few kits on the market sure, but they seem a bit over priced but a big thanks to Paradox by Design for writing a detailed article on the subject. I like their idea, but I don't see why you need those types of fittings for coolant, I mean the rad and heater hoses work fine with just hose clamps, its only ~15psi pressure why all the expensive high pressure fittings for their kit?? Also, rather than plumbing the stagnant coolant to the TSTAT housing like they did, I decided to go from the rear plates right to the WP suction side for 2 reasons, first to increase circulation even while the stats are closed and 2 because, well, its convenient, there's a pipe plug right on the WP so makes that part really easy too. So here's what I did...

I pulled both rear coolant block off plates, drilled them through the center and tapped them to 1/4" NPT. Then I installed NPT to 1/2" hose barb brass fittings with teflon tape and belt sanded the back side where they were sticking through they are flat on the bottom side. I removed the 1/2 pipe plug from the pass side top of the water pump and installed a 1/2"NPT to 1/2" barb brass fitting. Then I just connected all 3 with 1/2" heater hose and a 1/2" brass hose tee and followed righ beside the heater core hoses. All it took was 4 fittings, 6 hose clamps and about 5ft of 1/2" hose. I haven't filled it up and tested it out yet, but it looks great, I'll get some pictures Monday when I get back to work. I will use a vacuum fill method to eliminate virtually any air bubbles when I fill it up and maybe even get some pictures with the infrared camera to judge how its working.

Here's the fittings purchased...
total cost for parts was under $40.
642331
642332
642333
 

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pretty neat! let us know how it works- i'm very interested to see where this goes.
 
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1995 Chevrolet Silverado Z71 6.5 TD
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Went to the paradox website, they had a tech article on how to remove a swollen glow plug, no broken yet. It was great advice in my opinion. I haven't seen or heard of that procedure to remove a swollen GP. Scroll down and read the procedure.
Paradox By Design tech articles & how-to write ups
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I'm hoping to test it soon, I've got a thermal imaging camera so hopefully I can "see" the difference it makes.

Have to take care of some other unrelated issues, the shifter cable keeps falling off and there's something up with the brakes, once I get that straightened out then I'll be able to test drive it more.
 
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