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All I have to say is I'm glad I installed this. My results were quite similar with Bill Plock. I feel a lot better now because I know it's doing something.
 

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I have been thinking of a coolant filtration kit for my duramax. where did you find one? Any info would be great thanks Mike
 

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Very easy install. I mounted mine in the 2nd alt. position. You can buy them from http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/product_info.php?cPath=17&products_id=111

Really an easy install. The only thing you would have to think of is where to put it.

It's got to be helpful because when I took this off there was all kinds of gunk...

OR -- you can build the kit yourself. Do a search on the forum for coolant filter, coolant filtration etc... and you should find info on the kit...
 

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:nopics:
 

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Do you have pics of the final install? Not just where the filter mounts.... I am liking the idea. Especially with Dex-cool.
 

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What do you mean pics of the progress? -- No I don't have those.

Here is what you do:
  • Get the kit from Landuyt or ask him and he'll tell you what to get I'm sure.
  • Find a place to mount the filter head
  • Cut the heater in/out hose
  • Put in the T's
  • Run them to the filter head
  • The end...
Here is a great thread to reference this:
http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4027&highlight=coolant+filt*
 

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All I have to say is I'm glad I installed this. My results were quite similar with Bill Plock. I feel a lot better now because I know it's doing something.
It seems as if this was installed in the heater lines, then NO filtration happens all summer long? Am I correct in my thinking?
 

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It seems as if this was installed in the heater lines, then NO filtration happens all summer long? Am I correct in my thinking?
No, water/coolant flows through the heater core year round. But having said that, I think this is a solution in search of a problem. Cooling systems should be flushed and refilled as part of normal maintenance.
 

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No, water/coolant flows through the heater core year round. But having said that, I think this is a solution in search of a problem. Cooling systems should be flushed and refilled as part of normal maintenance.
Weel then that explains why my A/C is so poor in the cooling dept. What percentage do you think is flowing thru the heater core when the thermostat knod is on full cool?
 

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Weel then that explains why my A/C is so poor in the cooling dept. What percentage do you think is flowing thru the heater core when the thermostat knod is on full cool?
When the knob is in the "full cool" position the door that directs air flow should be directing all the air away from the heater core. If you are having problems with heat in the summer, it could be several things. The door mentioned above is activated by vacuum or an electric servo, so it may be the door is jammed, there isn't enough vacuum, or the servo is bad. (BTW: I don't know if the vacuum scenario applies to diesels, since the vacuum comes from the manifold on gas engines.)
 

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Myself, Bill Plock and a few others installed coolant filters on our earlier DMax engines and shared our results via cut open filters which was impressive. We concluded then that there IS casting sand left over from the manufacturing process and that flushing alone will not remove this residual sand from the system. I think the reason is that flushing velocity is slow and when you shut down the engine to drain flush water much of the sand and solids will quickly settle only to be left in the engine. With a filter however the sand and other particles will be suspended and caught over time during normal flow. Also being that we have a closed system any sand and other solids circulating around will have a cumulative effect in regards to pump and seal wear and will slow or inhibit the formation of protective films. Having run industrial and auto coolant filters for some time now I have yet to change a water pump and you can definitely see the improvement in fluid clarity in the recovery tank. Basically it will become so clear you can read through it and it will be sediment free. For a cost of about $50 you can't go wrong even if it only saves you one pump.
In industrial applications we spec and run 10 micron bypass sock filters and never change coolant. We simply reinhibit the cooling and heat media systems based on analysis alone. Fluids continue to look as good as new.
 
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