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Discussion Starter #21
I recommend you read ALL the foregoing comments to this thread. You might save yourself some money and time. In my opinion, the ice pick thing causes more damage than it cures. The biggest problem with the Delphi/Bosch injectors is contamination intrusion, i.e., water and dirt. The second biggest problem is an ice pick.
 

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I recommend you read ALL the foregoing comments to this thread. You might save yourself some money and time. In my opinion, the ice pick thing causes more damage than it cures. The biggest problem with the Delphi/Bosch injectors is contamination intrusion, i.e., water and dirt. The second biggest problem is an ice pick.
I'm going to have to disagree with what you said. I've had my #7 pick'd now for about three years. I drive my truck year round and look at the balance rates with each oil change. I have higher readings on the injectors that aren't picked than on #2 and #7.

When you pick the connector, you're going through two pieces of plastic to get the pin itself. On the bottom is the rubber gasket, and when the connector is mated to its injector the holes that are made as a result of the pick are seperated by the injector body connector and by the rubber gasket itself. I'm not saying pulling the connector and replacing it is a bad idea, that's why GM came out with a retro fit kit after all. "Pick"ing a problem injector isn't as you seem to be making it out to be. Can it be done wrong by someone without the right skills, absolutely no arguments. Done properly and carefully, I don't think its in the same toolbox as WD40 and duct tape as you put it. WD40 is crap anyways and it is never in my toolbox. LPS 1 or nothing:D
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I recommend you remove the terminal from the connector and look at it's design before advocating any action that virtually destroys it, especially when replacements are very expensive. The kit Chevy provided for #2 and #7 injector connectors was primarily to provide longer wiring and take the strain off the harness (cost of apx. $150). There was no improvement made to the terminal configuration. In doing so, they created a potential for new problems by adding four splices to the wiring. Splices are time bombs. If jamming a piece of rod through the terminal was an appropriate way to correct the problem, Chevy and/or Bosch could have saved thousands of dollars in warranty service by providing a special tool with a TSB to customers on a DIY basis. Hammers, WD-40, duct tape and ice picks all have their specific uses. When they are used for purposes outside of these, problems arise. The point is moot, but if the pick worked for your situation, fine.
 

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If jamming a piece of rod through the terminal was an appropriate way to correct the problem, Chevy and/or Bosch could have saved thousands of dollars in warranty service by providing a special tool with a TSB to customers on a DIY basis.
WRT the splices, no arugument there. I solder, shrink and seal with liquid electrical tape on top of that when I have to splice to make sure its as good or better than original. But as far as what I quoted above, not everyone is as DIY and alot of us on the forum are. Plus if its warranty work, its not your problem to fix it. Its GMs, thats why you pay for the warranty so when there's a problem you hand the keys to someone else and they fix it. Add in their liability on GM's part by telling a customer to do it themselves...how many people's loyalty and faith would instantly disappear? What if the customer did it wrong from lack of know how, then who pays to fix it? They have to make the fix for the lowest common denominator...the guy that puts diesel in the truck and drives it and thats it. Knows next to nothing about the truck because GM services it all the time. Thats the guy that they have to make the fix for.
 

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there is a difference between a fix and a work around. and unfortunately if the work around is really cheap and effective, it can be viewed by some as a fix. but the truth is, the fix is a replacement, not an ice pick. having the icepick in the truck is a great idea, but when my 2 & 7 harnesses went bad, i picked them as a workaround to get to the shop and then fixed them. i most likely could've gotten away with the icepick trick but pulling 18k in some very remote places with the family, i would have to kick my own arse if the work around failed down the road...fool me once... thanks dirty for the detailed analysis...very cool stuff and greatly appreciated!
 

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I tried ice-picking my terminals with limited success. After I disassembled all of them and swabbed them with dielectric grease, all my rattles and misses went away. No codes, runs as smooth as the day I picked it up from the dealer. Combine that with the new Geolanders on it that balanced out much better than the BFGs that I foolishly put on it a few years ago, it's the cat's ass. Love that truck.

Mark
 

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The ice pick trick never made much sense to me. I get the idea, I just don't think it fixes the problem. My truck limped and threw the p0202 TWO Years ago. I pulled the #2 connector, sprayed it with eletric parts cleaner from radio shack, and snapped it back together. Two years, only one spray of cleaner and snapped it back togehter. I think the connection was tight enough, it just gets dirty.

Fast forward until last week and it limped again. I was in my driveway and late for a meeting, and stupid me got in a hurry and broke the plastic tab. I cleaned it and zip tied the connection toghether.

I ordered a new connector, but the more I think about it, I think zip tie is probably better than splicing the wires. What do ya'll think? I think I'm going to pack it full of dialectric grease and zip tie it together. I think I could solder and double heat shrink the splice in place, but I really don't have a problem with the zip tie.
 

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I would do it in a pinch but that connector will be out of there the first chance I get. I don't quite understand why it's the goto solution for just about every problem. I understand it will work under specific conditions but it's become the fix-all for everything.

I push and pull on the connectors periodically. If I get a stumble, it's getting changed. I keep two in the toolbox to boot.
 

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So there is zero concern for a soldered connection failing/corroding before a tie wrap? Keep in mind the tie wrap replaces a platic tab. The solder joint replaces insulated wire.

I had initially intended to solder a new harness on and double heat shrink it, but the more I looked at the positioning and the lack of room and the 100 degree heat that would have sweat dripping everywhere, I decided the tie wrap holding the harness together (instead of the little plastic tab) would have a pretty low failure rate.
 

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The ice pick trick never made much sense to me. I get the idea, I just don't think it fixes the problem. My truck limped and threw the p0202 TWO Years ago. I pulled the #2 connector, sprayed it with eletric parts cleaner from radio shack, and snapped it back together. Two years, only one spray of cleaner and snapped it back togehter. I think the connection was tight enough, it just gets dirty.

Fast forward until last week and it limped again. I was in my driveway and late for a meeting, and stupid me got in a hurry and broke the plastic tab. I cleaned it and zip tied the connection toghether.

I ordered a new connector, but the more I think about it, I think zip tie is probably better than splicing the wires. What do ya'll think? I think I'm going to pack it full of dialectric grease and zip tie it together. I think I could solder and double heat shrink the splice in place, but I really don't have a problem with the zip tie.
There’s about a 1000 people that would beg to differ.ice pick trick has saved lots of people money.
 

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Ice pick saved my hide out on the road! I carry one with me all the time now. Thank goodness I've only had to use it the one time...
 
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