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Thanks for posting these instructions! I did this replacement last weekend. I will not know until our next trip in August whether or not this fixed my issue.

I did want to add a note that may help other people. On my 2008 the line by the transmission was about 11" long and the line in the engine area was about 4.5" long. I mention this because I did not see it in the thread and did not know how much hose to order and ended up ordering way more than I needed. Hope this helps someone!

Also, cutting the factory clamps was easy on 3 out of 4 of them. The most difficult clamp was in the engine area that was the closest to the ground. My dremel did not really fit without moving/removing the hose that goes to the intercooler/turbo (at least I think that is what that hose is for, my Duramax knowledge is very much lacking).
 
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Any Updates Just Threw a Code Low Rail Pressure did this fix your issues
It looks like it might have fixed the issue. We went camping last weekend and towed in the mountains with no issue. I was accelerating up the hills with the A/C going and had no codes thrown. The real test will be in August when we go on a 2 week camping trip.

I should mention that I also changed the fuel filter just in case it was the issue, so maybe that helped too.
 

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Just got back from our trip and we had no error codes! We towed over Wolf Creek Pass and a few other smaller passes, which is a pretty good test.

Now I need to figure out my cooling issue. First thing I am going to look at is the cooling stack to see if there is a bunch of junk built up.
 

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if diesel fuel isn't leaking in the area, and you aren't spraying a metal fuel line with sparks so it starts glowing, there isn't much to go wrong. a rubber line, put a sheet metal shield in front of it.
 

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I used my used oil pan and dumped the fuel in with my used oil.

Yes, I was worried about cutting the line too but if you are very careful and cut in the correct location the fuel does not come out until you pull the line off. You will be cutting metal so there will be some sparks flying. I used a dremel with a small cut off wheel.

Also, be careful to not go too deep or you will cut into the flare on the metal line. You need that flare in good condition so your new hose can seal around it.
 

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Having a lot of trouble with my '08. Just replaced the rubber lines that come off of the filter, next will be the short kinked line on the drivers side of engine. It is the one I suspect is giving me the most trouble. I'm getting the code unloaded not towing but under heavy acceleration. Cts2 shows rail pressure maxing out around 10k when it's asking for like 25k. Hopefully I'll get to do it tomorrow night.
 

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I'm sure this is a thread from the dead BUT.... I had a c4500 duramax with the 6.6L LLY that was giving me some grief when pulling a load up a grade. Engine would slow to a 10MPH crawl and wouldn't get better until we pulled over, let the truck cool down and disconnect the battery to reset the truck.
Welp i found this thread and got some 601-8 and some clamps and got to cutting. Which SUCKED! lol i only cut one side then scared the other side and took a screw driver in and pryed them off. I had 3 MAJOR kinks on 3 different lines. The replacement hoses fixed the problem. We were pulling a monster grade from a stand still with a 12K# trailer and it did great. Until it did it again.... When i got the truck back in the shop i found the last hose that i had to replace which was above the fuel tank.... I had to drop the tank the replace it. BUT i am fairly certain the truck should be 100% now after changing the kinked fuel hoses.
 

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Going through this on an '08 right now. Appreciate the tech write-up.

I find I'm not thrilled with the supply line to the filter housing, but one factory clamp (these are just spring clamps) is buried under.....a manifold for which I don't have the proper nomenclature -- something for the IC.

Suggestions on how to disassemble said manifold? It appears I could try to split it vertically at a 4-bolt plate or remove from engine --- the latter actually appears easier but I'm wondering what gaskets I'll need on hand for proper reassembly?
Doubtful you'll get any responses from a 4 year old thread.
You might try posting a new thread over in the LMM section of the forum for some fresh advice from members there (y)
 
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