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Discussion Starter #1
On my way back to Texas from Colorado, I ran into some problems.....

I noticed my theft deterrent light kept coming on randomly, and I kept getting a message in the DIM saying something like: Brake Signal Lost. Weird. Kept driving...eventually got theft deterrent, and battery light along with loss of fuel, oil, and temp gauges. Volts, speedo, tach, and tranny temp still worked fine.

Codes at this time were as follows:
p1626
u1064
u1152
u1041
u1024

Cleared them with my Edge monitor and kept on truckin'.

Every hundred miles or so, I would get a "Service Brake System" on the DIM. When that would happen, it was like I blipped the throttle HARD, and it would kill the cruise control. I would have to shut off the truck and re-start it to get cruise control back.

Kept on truckin'.

This was going on for the whole trip, with random electronic failures. No pattern to the madness at all.

So I'm cruising along, and all my gauges die again. I didn't realize it at the time, but the truck had died too. It wasn't until I slowed down enough for the torque converter to unlock that I realized it had died. Idle dropped to zero, and I lost power steering and brakes. Tried three times to start the truck...no dice. Had to pull the negatives. Truck fired right up. No codes.

Kept on truckin'.

Now I'm driving through San Antonio. Gauges die again, but this time with a CEL. This was the first CEL the whole trip. I pulled over and shut off the truck and re-started it. CEL remained.

Codes at this time were as follows:
p0201-p0208
p0500
p0802
p1125
p1626
u1301

Cleared codes, CEL turned off, kept on truckin'. Finally made it home with more random problems, but nothing major. Everytime I would lose gauges, I would check codes with my Edge while driving. If no codes, I would return to my gauges. But they wouldn't display. It only displayed part of the graphic. And it was a red and black blocky display with some lines. I would have to re-start the truck to get the OBDII to start communicating again.

I thought it was the EBCM, but the codes regarding the injectors didn't make sense. And it was such a random amount of EVERYTHING failing that it seemed like more of a glitch than a failed part. Volts on the Edge were a steady 13.6-14.0V at all times.

I replaced the batteries. Truck seems to be back to normal. If it isn't, I'll post again. I put this up for other people on the road with nothing but a smartphone and Google to help them.

Anyone else have problems like this, feel free to add your experiences.
 

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try taking the EDGE off first and drive like that. Bare bones stock is a good place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
try taking the EDGE off first and drive like that. Bare bones stock is a good place to start.
It is stock. The Edge CTS is just a monitor in my case, and it's been on the truck the last ten thousand miles. The batteries are the original OEM's, and bad batteries in these trucks can cause all kinds of weird crap to happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, the theft deterrent light came on today and shut the truck off while my wife was driving it. It wouldn't start until she opened and closed the door. Then it started fine. wtf.

Not how I wanted to spend days off. I have today and tomorrow to work still. Then week off. Can you guys load me up with suggestions?

FYI, it started doing this after new stereo install. Guy assured me it couldn't be that. But I don't know. Also, if you plug something beefy into the cigarette lighter (like the kids' TV's), it blows the fuse and kills the edge monitor in the process. It won't blow fuses with something small like a cellphone charger. It will blow 30amp fuses no problem. Doesn't happen in my Chevy, or either of my Dodges.

Other than the fuse blowing, and the stereo, the truck is pristine and bone stock.

I'd appreciate the help. I've been Googling this for hours, and there are many many many possibilities ...please narrow them down if you can.
 

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Maybe the stereo instal somehow tapped into a computer data line or power supply for a body module or something. Or maybe you've got a problem in the bale connectors under the hood. Last time I saw a vehicle that was throwing a bunch of random codes that didn't even relate to each other it was caused by a bad PCM. That was just a gasoline sedan, but you never know, I wouldn't rule out a bad computer or some stupid module failing.


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Discussion Starter #6
Maybe the stereo instal somehow tapped into a computer data line or power supply for a body module or something. Or maybe you've got a problem in the bale connectors under the hood. Last time I saw a vehicle that was throwing a bunch of random codes that didn't even relate to each other it was caused by a bad PCM. That was just a gasoline sedan, but you never know, I wouldn't rule out a bad computer or some stupid module failing.


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Thank you. I'd like to remove the stereo. But its so random, if it never happened again, I would still wonder if it was really the stereo. Is there a connector I could've wiggled upon installation? I used a harness so everything was plug and play.

Sent from phone. Please excuse spelling.
 

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This is an '03? Unless I'm mistaken, 03-06 trucks do not have switched power at the radio, they have a data wire that the BCM uses to communicate with the radio, including turning it on. If you're saying you used a harness, and that you didn't have to tap somewhere for switched power, it is likely that your radio is causing a problem with your BCM.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
This is an '03? Unless I'm mistaken, 03-06 trucks do not have switched power at the radio, they have a data wire that the BCM uses to communicate with the radio, including turning it on. If you're saying you used a harness, and that you didn't have to tap somewhere for switched power, it is likely that your radio is causing a problem with your BCM.
Yes. Harness. The guys at the stereo outfit butt-connectored it together so I could install it myself because they were booked, and I had to get back to Texas. I also had to hook up a "beeper" to retain factory tone. Everything was plug and play. And the stereo still stays on after you turn off the truck until you open a door. So it must be tied to the bcm, right? How else would it know if the door was open or not?

Tell me more! Which wire would it be?

Sent from phone. Please excuse spelling.
 

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What did the "beeper" hook up to?
 

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What did the "beeper" hook up to?
Part of the harness. Its all spliced together. Like four connectors. I had to plug two into the stereo, one into beeper, and one into the truck.

Sent from phone. Please excuse spelling.
 

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You need to get ahold of a wiring schematic for the under dash components. Find the stereo and see what kind of modules it connects to and on what wires. Then you can pull the stereo out and inspect those wires and make sure nothing is screwed up. Without a schematic it's all guessing.


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Part of the harness. Its all spliced together. Like four connectors. I had to plug two into the stereo, one into beeper, and one into the truck.

Sent from phone. Please excuse spelling.
The "beeper" should be connected to the ground (black), hot (red), and data, which is usually a green of some sort but I've never done an '03 truck so I wouldn't know. If your radio is sharing that third wire that is most likely your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The "beeper" should be connected to the ground (black), hot (red), and data, which is usually a green of some sort but I've never done an '03 truck so I wouldn't know. If your radio is sharing that third wire that is most likely your problem.
I'll look when I get home and report back. Thanks for the info!

Sent from phone. Please excuse spelling.
 

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Okay, I haven't looked yet, but I did just take it on a 50 mile round trip with the radio off. No weird errors except the "Service Brake System" coming on once and killing my cruise control. I think that may be an unrelated problem, because about a month ago I was braking at about 5mph, and my ABS activated for no apparent reason.

When I got home today, I removed my key from the ignition, got out, and closed the door. Right before I got it closed, my chime started dinging. It dinged about four times and shut off.

One more thing....I think the theft deterrent light may also be unrelated. On our way to Colorado, my wife put our Dodge key on the Duramax's keyring. One time I went to start up the truck and accidentally inserted the Dodge key. It went in effortlessly, so I didn't even notice it until I tried to turn it. Of course, it wouldn't turn. I looked down and realized my mistake. During researching all of this, I've read that I might've activated the Passlock function? Can that cause random craziness?

I'll pull that stereo out first thing tomorrow, and drive it the rest of this week. That should be plenty of time for it to bug out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The "beeper" should be connected to the ground (black), hot (red), and data, which is usually a green of some sort but I've never done an '03 truck so I wouldn't know. If your radio is sharing that third wire that is most likely your problem.

It has:

Constant
Switched power
Ground
Phone mute

plugged into it.

The switched power goes from the stereo to the beeper only. I don't understand where the stereo itself gets switched power. The connection to the truck has:

Two constant hots(one to stereo and one to beeper)
Two grounds(one to stereo and one to beeper)
Phone mute(goes to beeper)
Speakers

The way it's wired doesn't make sense. At first glance I would wonder if it generates it own keyed power.....
 

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The way it's wired doesn't make sense.
You are absolutely correct, lol. The mute line should be going to the radio, unless it's not actually a mute line, and there should be no switched power to the chime, it should chime on forever as long as it has a reason to.

Here's a hypothesis. That mute line may not actually be a mute line. It is the data line. It communicates with the BCM to know when the truck is on, when you are trying to use Onstar, etc. It then interprets that data itself and triggers the switched power line that goes to the stereo. Chiming, muting, and power switching all taken care of right there.

What is the model number of your "chime" device?
 

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Quick Google search of chime retention devices shows they function exactly as I just described, lol. It appears the radio is most likely NOT your problem, sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
GMRC-01
00-UP GM CL2 HARNESS INT CHIME
1219GMRC_3.6
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Quick Google search of chime retention devices shows they function exactly as I just described, lol. It appears the radio is most likely NOT your problem, sorry.
K. Either way, it's out. If the truck goes on the fritz again, I'll start with grounds.

I need to chase down the "Brake Signal Lost" problem, and the Theft Deterrent problem.

I think one is a sensor, and the other will require a re-flash.
 

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There is a service bulletin out for a bad ground on the brake module causing those messages. The brake system related ones, at least. I would look into in.
 
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