Diesel Place banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Super Moderator A Country Boy Can Survive...
Joined
·
14,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i know i know a mod posting in the wrong forum. :eek::p:


Anyways, not sure if this has been happening all along and it's just getting worse now, or it it started randomly.

two days ago i replaced my pad and rotors. pad's were the cheap NAPA's and they were cracked to hell and back after less than a year, and still had ~60% pad life left. Repacked the bearings as they were fine(gotta love timken's from the factory). New oil seals w/ new rotors as well.

Now whenever i make a sharp right turn(yank the wheel to the right) I get a clunk. I can feel the clunk in the floor area. I checked to make sure all the lug nuts were tight, and torqued them down to 135 ft lbs(charts call for 140).

also regreased the front end and inspected everything. truck's got a year old pitman arm on it. no other steering parts have been changed(at least not since i've owned it).

Any ideas?

Thanks

- Dave
 

·
Super Moderator A Country Boy Can Survive...
Joined
·
14,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
afaik they are original. everything looks original that's for sure. any test i can do other than a visual check?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
772 Posts
Control arms, tie rods, ball joints - I had an issue similar to this, could
not find the noise, until I hit a particularly bad rail crossing.
The metal bracket that holds the sway bar to the frame was cracked,
allowing the bar to bang just a little.
 

·
Super Moderator A Country Boy Can Survive...
Joined
·
14,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
interesting tookie.

With 178K on the truck i'll probably rebuild the front end. new ball joints, new bushings all over, new idler arm, etc etc. That may be my big summer project.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,964 Posts
Summer project Dave? This is a weekend fix. With a couple of beers of course :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,643 Posts
Did you check the column, could be the universal joint clunking, or a rub against something?!?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
905 Posts
interesting tookie.

With 178K on the truck i'll probably rebuild the front end. new ball joints, new bushings all over, new idler arm, etc etc. That may be my big summer project.

i just done the whole frontend on the burb 2 days ago(188k on mine)......bushings and ball joints sucked!!!....need to have it alined.....and boy it drives alot better....you couldn't look around without going into the other lane or off the road:eek:....it was bad!!!!

getting the bushings out....easiest way i found was to take a drill bit and drill the rubber out to loosen them up then a good swat with a hammer...

put on new EBC vented rotors and pads....
 

·
Super Moderator A Country Boy Can Survive...
Joined
·
14,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
i just done the whole frontend on the burb 2 days ago(188k on mine)......bushings and ball joints sucked!!!....need to have it alined.....and boy it drives alot better....you couldn't look around without going into the other lane or off the road:eek:....it was bad!!!!

getting the bushings out....easiest way i found was to take a drill bit and drill the rubber out to loosen them up then a good swat with a hammer...

put on new EBC vented rotors and pads....

alignment i can have done at work, or i can do it myself at school as we've got an alignment rack. For now i'll find exactly what's clunking and change it. but i do have to do the entire front end sooner rather than later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,319 Posts
Sway bar end links may be loose or broke. PST in new jersey sells front end rebuild kits with graphite impregnated polyurethane bushings and all the suspension/steering parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
I need to do some front end work on mine too. I can probably turn the wheel 5* off center in both directions before I get any actual steering response. Makes it kind of annoying pulling a trailer in wind. :p:

I don't have any other unusual problems up front other than that, hopefully its not the steering column and just the tie rods being worn out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,258 Posts
only when turning dave? did you do the bearings to spec? if not, the preload may be loose on the left bearing, and it's dropping into/out of place during the right turn?
 

·
Super Moderator A Country Boy Can Survive...
Joined
·
14,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
only when turning dave? did you do the bearings to spec? if not, the preload may be loose on the left bearing, and it's dropping into/out of place during the right turn?
my instructor which is ASE certified in practically everything did that side as i was putting the drivers side back together. I would hope he friggin did the procedure correctly.

can i tighten the castle nut 1 or 2 "notches" where the cotter pin goes or do i have to do the entire procedure again? I know he tightened it to preload it, but i'm wondering if he backed off the nut too far?

AFAIK that "clunk" wasn't there before. I'm just afraid i'm gonna bust something really bad if that's the case.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,258 Posts
get the torque spec and re torque it...the spec should say tighting to X and then back off X turns
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top