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Discussion Starter #1
hello all,

my 130000 mile suburban is currently suffering from "click/no crank" syndrome. altho occasionally it will start on 1st try, it mostly clicks several times before cranking/starting. i am in the process of cleaning the grounds and doing voltage checks per the shop manual. the batteries are fully charged with each measuring 12.5+ volts.

one of the answers from the shop manual troubleshooting guide is replacing the neg battery cables and/or the pos battery-to-starter cable ... but how bad does a cable have to be to cause this problem? seems unlikely to have so little margin of error but there it is. i'll try to finish troubleshooting per the shop manual and probably replace the battery cables ... and then the starter if necessary. any suggestions?

if it comes to replacing the starter, i have a new 28mt starter, type 171, model 1113296 that i purchased years ago against a future (then) problem. i'm hoping that it is correct for the suburban as i imagine the specs haven't changed for these in quite a while.

anybody else run into this problem? i found different versions of it on the internet but never an answer as to what the causes are. thanks,

peyton
 

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Relocated over to 6.5L for more appropriate answers

:thumb:
 

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Do you still have the side terminal batts?
 

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I would 1st rule out the batteries. 12.5 does not necessarily mean a healthy battery. Load testing is best but if that is not an option try jump starting it. If it starts better and does not give you troubles while starting while connected to a notyher running vehicle than I would look closer at the batteries.

Next place to look at would be the main connection at the starter. (disconnect the grounds to the main batts first and really give things some good wiggling and make sure all connectors down there are primo.)

After that one thing I ran into that was odd was a starter that required a little shimming. The gear would sometimes hit the ring gear when it was being pushed by the solenoid and stop dead in its tracks without engaging the main contacts to spin the starter. There should be ~3/32 from the shaft on the starter to the tips of the ring gear. Anything less and I would add a shim.

After all of those tests passed maybe look at the solenoid itself and signal from the starter (though the clicking would indicate that is likely good).

Start with those, good luck! Also the main ground you need to make sure of would be the batteries to the block in this case as the starter uses the block as it's ground.
 

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x2 on load testing the batteries one at a time.
 

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The stacked connection on the pass side batt + can sometimes cause your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
hi,

some progress i think. the solenoid voltage, using engine as ground, is same as battery voltage. this seems to say that the +batt cable to starter is good. agreed? that still doesn't say that the batteries are working good under load.

i connected a 10 ga jumper wire between starter mounting bolt and batt neg terminal. seemingly the problem has been *lessened* by the jumper. recently it has been "click multiple times, then start" but since the jumper was installed it has been "single click, then start".

is there some conductive corrosion-resistant compound that can be used to protect the grounds? or maybe just a bit of paint.

my conclusion is that all grounds still need to be cleaned, starter grounding needs to be fixed and the starter solenoid might be faulty. any suggestions? thanks,

peyton
 

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Bring the batteries to the part store even WM to be load tested.

I know I am a pest.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bring the batteries to the part store even WM to be load tested.

I know I am a pest.
batteries are new in march this year. took them (in vehicle) to both autozone and oreillys. both say batteries good.

cleaned grounds g101, g102, g103, g104, g105 ... contact areas shiny but cleaned them anyway. put a jumper between (-) battery terminal and starter mounting bolt. (-) battery cables show 0 resistance. voltage between solenoid (+) terminal and engine ground shows 12.5v. all reading were with digital multimeter.

1. replace starter. only 3 mounting bolts and 2 power connections but, oh, what a pain to get to them
2. changeout cables, maybe cables have internal breakdown. btw, in looking at cables, the (+) ones are 2 ga or 4 ga and the (-) ones are 4 ga. sound about right?
3. replace starter switch. suggested by battery testing technicion. possibility? thanks,

peyton
 

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batteries are new in march this year. took them (in vehicle) to both autozone and oreillys. both say batteries good.

cleaned grounds g101, g102, g103, g104, g105 ... contact areas shiny but cleaned them anyway. put a jumper between (-) battery terminal and starter mounting bolt. (-) battery cables show 0 resistance. voltage between solenoid (+) terminal and engine ground shows 12.5v. all reading were with digital multimeter.

1. replace starter. only 3 mounting bolts and 2 power connections but, oh, what a pain to get to them
2. changeout cables, maybe cables have internal breakdown. btw, in looking at cables, the (+) ones are 2 ga or 4 ga and the (-) ones are 4 ga. sound about right?
3. replace starter switch. suggested by battery testing technicion. possibility? thanks,

peyton
That is why you need to make sure that the batteries good before going to the starter.

Starter is not the easiest thing to do and it is heavy.

Make sure that nut on the stud to the bracket are tight.
You can take off the cables from the battery to starter and the cable bracket so the original starter can go down freely after.

If you can get at least 2 ga for the positive to positive cable.
You can also put 2 ga for the negative cable to engine studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That is why you need to make sure that the batteries good before going to the starter.

Starter is not the easiest thing to do and it is heavy.

Make sure that nut on the stud to the bracket are tight.
You can take off the cables from the battery to starter and the cable bracket so the original starter can go down freely after.

If you can get at least 2 ga for the positive to positive cable.
You can also put 2 ga for the negative cable to engine studs.
thanks for the suggestion on getting the starter down and i will definitely use 2 ga or heavier for the cables.

should have mentioned this before but didn't: the problem began shortly after having driven thru water maybe 8 or 10 inches deep. didn't think it could affect anything and forgot about it until now ... but the problem did start a few days to a week later. can't see any corrosion at the solenoid but i'm going to drop the starter today and we'll see. thanks,

peyton
 

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I have just realized you are in Houston.
Unfortunately, water will create electrical shorts.

Starter is under the engine which actually makes sense after being immersed in water.
There is a big connector from battery at the starter and a very small connector from ignition switch (?).
Both are not protected.
Hopefully, the flood just taken out the starter.

While down there, you may want to get a good flash light and inspect other parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have just realized you are in Houston.
Unfortunately, water will create electrical shorts.

Starter is under the engine which actually makes sense after being immersed in water.
There is a big connector from battery at the starter and a very small connector from ignition switch (?).
Both are not protected.
Hopefully, the flood just taken out the starter.

While down there, you may want to get a good flash light and inspect other parts.
i am very much against just throwing parts at a problem and altho it turned out to be the most likely problem from the very beginning, i am glad to have checked the grounds (nice and shiny and tight), responded to your suggestions and gone thru the diagnostic procedure from the shop manual.

it did turn out there was a small amout of white corrosion on the solenoid switch terminal (purple wire) but i doubt that was the problem. anyway it was a no-brainer, while the old starter was out, to replace the old with the new starter referenced in a previous post.

i'll check out the old starter and refurb it if necessary. after all, one never knows when one will need a new starter does one?

to sum it up, the suburban again starts like it always has ... on the first turnover. thanks guys, for all the help,

peyton
 
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