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Discussion Starter #1
since my block heater dumped on me, i want to put in a katz 1500 watt circulating heater, the question i have is what hose would i splice it into to get it to warm the engine and not just heater core.

i have noticed my core does not blow out all that hot when the engine is at operating temp so i may have a partially plugged core and would be fighting that as well, or does the dual t-stat effect that, like if one of the t-stats should fail open?
 

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I have on a generator and its on the bottom Rad Hose
 

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i was just looking at a katz circulator at tractor supply. I wanted it so bad, but really couldnt figure out how to install, the bottom of the pump needed to be below the motor.it said to hook ithe top to a heater hose and the bottom to the bottom radiator hose. But didnt include the lower rad. hose tee. for 44.50
 

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Look on the right side of the water pump, there should be a 1/2" pipe plug. If your brackets are not in the way, you can route the heater return hose to that plug enstead of the radiator with your block heater installed inline.
 

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i was just looking at a katz circulator at tractor supply. I wanted it so bad, but really couldnt figure out how to install, the bottom of the pump needed to be below the motor.it said to hook ithe top to a heater hose and the bottom to the bottom radiator hose. But didnt include the lower rad. hose tee. for 44.50
The lower T can be made out of brass fittings from your hardware store, you would need a 1/2 inch T, 2 -3/4 inch hose barbs, and one 5/8 hose barb.
I mounted mine on the lower part of the pass side battery box. The in side is cut into surge line and hot out goes into the heater hose returning to radiator. I put a ball valve ( threaded ) between the upper T and radiator so that all heated water must go through heater core, and then into heads via crossover.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
my 98 has a t built into the lower rad hose for the line going to the reservoir , i just spliced into that for the feed line down low and then spliced into the return line from the heater core into the radiator, i had to get a extra T like the one in the kit to do it($9 at bumper to bumper) but it seems to work good so far, i'll know better tomorrow after the timer kicks it in at 4am
 

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This is the type of heater I had on my truck in Alaska. It worked great! I did not install it thou, it came on the truck when I purchased it. It did not matter how cold it got. If I had the truck plugged in, After I unplugged it, I started it up the heater blew warm air. But, I also had one for the battery, and oil pan. The main reason for this was in the winter I would leave my truck sitting sometimes for over a week at a time. As long as it was plugged in it would start. Never had a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)

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Tractor supply had a 2000 watt to that seems to be overkill huh??
 

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Amazon has them from 850 watts all the way to 2000 watt. 2000 watt is alot of power tho, it would need a circuit of its own. I'm tempted to get a 1,000 watt one, but im not sure if its enough for that diesel and its big cooling system.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
the problem with the 2000 watt one is you need a huge extension cord rated for that(20 amp)

there is no timer rated for 2000 watts(largest is 1800)

i had thought about it but after some research found that 1500 watts is about as big as you should go on a 110 outlet safely to begin with and then the lack of a suitable timer also killed that idea
 

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the problem with the 2000 watt one is you need a huge extension cord rated for that(20 amp)

there is no timer rated for 2000 watts(largest is 1800)

i had thought about it but after some research found that 1500 watts is about as big as you should go on a 110 outlet safely to begin with and then the lack of a suitable timer also killed that idea

Yep!
 

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2000 watts @ 120 volts is 16.66 amps, within the rating of that timer, or any extention cord made from 12 Ga wire. I have the 1500 watt unit, and that works fine, though
 

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Actually the timer I have says 1800 watt max..... just like outalne stated. Doesnt matter tho really. 1500 i think is plenty.
 

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think stock block heaters run from 650-1000 watt. too much can cook engine and coolant. cat used to tell us 100-120 and no more than 140. by-pass holes in thermostats will let enough flow, try to plumb into waterpump or t-stat hsg. want top of engine heated and pull out of heater return hose will heat cab.
 

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think stock block heaters run from 650-1000 watt. too much can cook engine and coolant. cat used to tell us 100-120 and no more than 140. by-pass holes in thermostats will let enough flow, try to plumb into waterpump or t-stat hsg. want top of engine heated and pull out of heater return hose will heat cab.
I'm confused with my block heater. When its plugged in. It makes a vibrating sound and feel. I can feel it in the bumper, why would that be?
 

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Its proabbly the type they are talking about here that attaches inline in one of the smaller hoses and actually has a tiny pump in it to slowly circulate the coolant through at least part of the system. You should be able to see it if you look. Try and follow the power cord to get an idea where it is.
 
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