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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. Ive been wanting to make one of these truck disabling switches for a long time...but I just got around to it today. It works in theory, but I still have to wire it up.:)

This circuit is handy because it serves TWO functions. It allows you to secure the truck while running and while shut off via a SPDT toggle switch. So when you leave the truck running in the winter while you run into the store, you can flip the switch (arming the system), and lock the doors by taking the key fob with you. The key fob will still lock the doors even tho the ignition is on. If someone were to break into the truck while it was running, as soon as they step on the brake pedal, the BCM main power wire is cut, and the engine shuts off. The other positoin on the switch is for securing the turkc when you park and shut it off. Flip the switch in the other direction, and the same BCM power wire is also cut constantly, until you flip the switch back on. No BCM power, no PASSlock power, no start. I need to find out what color wire the BCM power wire is first, and what color wire to tap into at the brake pedal. Once I find these wires, ill report back. Here is my initial schematic. The two relays on the right are for the "momentary to constant" circuit that "constantly" cuts the BCM power wire even tho the brake pedal may only be pressed momentarrilly. If anyone sees a problem (Max Power?) with this circuit, my theories, or the way it works, please let me know!!

As far as switch location, ill leave that up to you. Thats what makes the system secure; your own unique switch location. So dont tell me where you put the switch.:)

--Ben
 

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I don't think cutting the BCM wire will kill the engine. The PCM wire will.

You genarally don't use a relay in a fashion that the relay will be energised when the vehicle is not running. The relay will add more load and kill the battery that much faster.

Also your brake light circuit is a lot more complicated then it needs to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ahhh true, it would draw power when the system is armed...but should I really be worried about that?

How would I make the brake switch cut off circuit simpler?


Im just too cheap to buy a remote start :D
 

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I would be worried about that.

I can draw this circuit up with 1 relay I am pretty sure. Just give me some time I don't have time to do it right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
alright awesome thanks Tony!
 

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Ben I need to test a circuit on my truck. If it works as I think it will this can be done with 1 switch and 1 relay. I'll try to do it asap. I walked to work today so my truck is not here.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks a lot Tony...much appreciated.
 

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I Would Love Any Knowlege You Have On This Topic
And Any Other Antitheft Devices My 2003 Was Stolen Right Out In Front Of My House The Thing Is I Think They Towed It So This Mod Wouldnt Help Me Here But I Want To Make My 2005 Crimeproof
 

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I am kind of against this type of mod because they are fairly easy to get around.

A true immobilizer, immobilizes at least 3 circuits and requires a transponder tag on the key chain to allow you to drive it.

This is the only type of security system that my insurance company recognizes and they claim there has never been a vehicle stolen with this type of immobilizer. I install quite a few of them and they are very difficult to get around.
 

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The way I look at it, all you are going to do is stop the joyriders.
Once your truck is a mark, a pro WILL get it. He's being paid to get a specific model, year, and often color.

Make it as difficult as you can without causing more than reasonable inconvenience to legitimate drivers. Beyond that, a tracking system will help you to get it back if it is stolen. My insurance company does NOT recognize OnStar as a valid tracking service... only Lojack.

As far as the "reasonable inconvenience", for example, occasionally my friend or his wife need to move my vehicle when we're visiting or camping together. They have an extra set of keys. If they also needed a keyfob, that would be a problem.

When I'm riding my dirtbike, I carry ONE key with me in a trail wallet around my neck. It's the door/ignition. The key to the shell is hidden in the cab. The fob and my regular key ring is back at camp or at home... somewhere nowhere near the truck.
Okay, maybe I could carry an electronic fob while riding my bike... but does anyone make one that'll survive being under 150ft of seawater for an hour? Even if I put it in a sealed bag or carry it inside my drysuit, the pressure (67psi) would probably crush it, and if not, it would at least hold the buttons down :D

I am very careful when I purchase a vehicle to make sure that it does not have a transponder in the key.
 

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No one will steal a vehicle with 3 circuits immobilized installed by me without a tow truck or quite a few hours spare time.
 
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