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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for a good additive to "clean" the injectors. I pulled one of mine the other day only to find a BIG build up of carbon.
I've recently used FPPF, obviously didn't work or good enough. Have used stanadyne in the past like it better, harder to get locally. But these are "lubricants" not cleaners, correct? Is there anything to actually clean the carbon build up around the injector nozzles and such?
BG?
 

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Use brake cleaner or soak it in carb cleaner, bouth works great. Use after soaking a tooth brush to get al the carbon out of the gaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
MDE;1563096; said:
Use brake cleaner or soak it in carb cleaner, bouth works great. Use after soaking a tooth brush to get al the carbon out of the gaps.
That's exactly what I did after speaking with you and I have pictures taken, will post and pm them soon.
But I'm wondering what to pour in the tank that will prevent or cure this carbon buildup? Any suggestions?
 

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I thought you wanna clean the injectors outside of the vehicle, sure don't pure that stuff in the tank !!!!:D :D :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I guess there's no REAL FOR SURE way to do so. I MAY just take out all 7 injectors check and clean em , then I'll know for sure they aren't covered with carbon deposits huh?
I think the one under the dang FICM would be the hardest so if I can handle it, I'm sure I can handle 7 more. :D
 

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Stanadayne's lubricity formula is primarily a cleaner and a lubricant. It will also stabilize the fuel to reduce the formation of asphaltines in the fuel. Asphaltines are the black tar-like substance you see on your filters and maybe what's on your injectors.

I have read that additives that are pimarily cetane boosters will destablize the fuel. Given that the new ultra low sulfur diesel has a cetane of 50+, a cetane improver may not buy you much anyways...

jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
dmax lover;1563428; said:
Stanadayne's lubricity formula is primarily a cleaner and a lubricant. It will also stabilize the fuel to reduce the formation of asphaltines in the fuel. Asphaltines are the black tar-like substance you see on your filters and maybe what's on your injectors.

I have read that additives that are pimarily cetane boosters will destablize the fuel. Given that the new ultra low sulfur diesel has a cetane of 50+, a cetane improver may not buy you much anyways...

jeff
I've been convinced for a while Stanadyne is the way to go, always used the "Performance Formula" though, maybe I'll try the "lubricity formula"
Just curious on others as well.
My main concern is to "clean", I could care les about the mileage improvement for now.
Kerosene?
BG244?

If the one injector I pulled out was that covered, I'm just wondering how bad the other 7 are and would prefer to use something like an additive or cleaner, rather than pull all 7 injectors.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
MDE;1563805; said:
If you are alreay so so far, I would pull all other 7 injectors too to clean it. Trie the RBP aditive. (http://www.rollingbigpower.com/products/?sfID1=12&productID=180) If you need some I will organize it for you.

Volker
I'll look into the RBP and will let you know, if I decide to do all 7, I'll make sure and give you a call.

About an hour ago I put in some Diesel Kleene as I've heard good about it and have no stanadyne on hand and I think I may try some 2 cycle as well, been reading mostly good about it.
If I do change all 7, you have the washers and o-rings in stock for a LLY?
Thanks much for all your help!

Also, what is your PERSONAL opinion on using a quart of 2 cycle outboard motor oil in a tank of fuel????
 

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You will want to look for an additive that has proven performance for the Cummins L10 injector test. This is a common test for carbon prevention/minimizing on injectors. Are you actually working the truck or is it just a commuter? You may want to hook up a good size trailer and take a trip with injector cleaner in the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
JKitterman;1563935; said:
You will want to look for an additive that has proven performance for the Cummins L10 injector test. This is a common test for carbon prevention/minimizing on injectors. Are you actually working the truck or is it just a commuter? You may want to hook up a good size trailer and take a trip with injector cleaner in the tank.
I don't really pull, used to pull my 5'er around but sold it, now it's just a DD and race every chance I get. I work it pretty hard I would say.
 

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I've been using Howes Lubricator for 33 years in both on and off road iron--NEVER a problem. Talking to a United Van Lines trucker the other day--told me their entire fleet of 6700 tractors with both Cummins and Cat engines have used Howes exclusively--also no problems.Get it in any truck stop.
 

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JKitterman;1564726; said:
A daily driver and race isn't the kind of work it needs. It needs a constant load and not a lot of dumping in the fuel over a short period of time. Your use it contributing greatly to the problem.
So, pulling a 5'er helps to clean carbon off the injectors better than say a few WOT runs to 100 or so everyday? Hmmm.... Interesting.

I guess all those 60 mph rolls to whenever the guy next to you gives up doesn't help? Sometimes it can go on for a while, especially when you give him the feeling he's catching up and then put the pedal back to the floor.:D

Could of swore that was burning off all that carbon crap on my injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
turbeau;1564778; said:
so, pulling a 5'er helps to clean carbon off the injectors better than say a few wot runs to 100 or so everyday? hmmm.... Interesting. I guess all those 60 mph rolls to whenever the guy next to you gives up doesn't help? sometimes it can go on for a while, especially when you give him the feeling he's catching up and then put the pedal back to the floor.:d could of swore that was burning off all that carbon crap on my injectors.
:d
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
stacks04;1565373; said:
just pull all 7 injectors, and clean them, you already did the hardest one. also use the standyne, you can get it on the web. check our vendors!!!!!
I think that's what I'll wind up doing.
Did I tell ya I found that da** o-ring? It fell off, was split in half and looked like it had been burnt/corroded.
Thanks again for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
stacks04;1566898; said:
so the tick is gone? maybe the oring just was bad.
yep tick is gone, o-ring was destroyed. But now my head's playing tricks on my ears.....I have to turn the radio down real quick to see what that noise was....lol
 
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