Diesel Place banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
646 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Due to financial constraints, I will be forced to camp out of my truck again this hunting season. Last year, I slept in the back seat and cooked etc. outside.


This year, I will have an Astro 1600 (mid-rise) camper shell (carpeted) and a BedRug. I am considering making a platform for the air matress in the bed so I can sit up to get dressed. I also am looking at one of those little propane camp showers and a tent that hooks to the truck. My plan is to sleep in the truck and use the tent to eat in out of the weather. I'll still cook and clean up outside.


I see Problem Child has modified his truck for camping. I would appreciate pics or plans or ideas anyone has for making this type of setup the most useable.


BTW, the weather can run from lows in the 40s and highs in the 70s to lows in the teens and highs of 50 during the season. Wind is nearly constant and rain occurs occasionally. All input is appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,190 Posts
Look in Cabella's, they have a nice tent that attaches to the rear of a truck with a cap. It allows you to open the rear gate and window and have a area enclosed in by the tent. Keeps out bugs and what not. Other than that, I have use electrical tubing attached to the racks on my cap to set a tarp up over the rear of the truck to have a dry place to sit and hang out in when it rains and leave the rear of the truck open.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,005 Posts
I've a cab high Astro and use 3 2X6's that I layed 2 pieces of 5/8 plywood on. I store gear under and do an air mattress on top of the plywood. Cooking is done on the tailgate. Frankly, this arrangement is tight ~ can't sit up but the price is right & don't see it as a major inconvience ~ guess all those seasons in my youth camping out of the backseat of a '47 cad has conditioned me. I've installed a west marine mega fuse on the eng firewall and run 2ga (?) electrical cable (from a welding supply house) to the rear. Have a 1200W inverter but haven't teminated it permanently yet. Can't say I like Astros battery powered lighting (AA cells).


When I fitted the plywood ~ I noticed that the bed dimensions isn't linear ~ accordiningly its a tight fit in my case (I did want to to be close) and when I wanna remove the arrangement after the season, I find it tuff to remove/lift the cap to slide the plywood out ~ does anyone out there remove & replace their caps singlehandedly? If so, pls share methodology.Edited by: ShumDit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
646 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Joey D:


The Cabella's tent is the one I was looking at. Spendy, but nice.


Fireman:


One of those links has one similar to the Cabella's tent and it's a little cheaper. I need to go measure the opening, but it's raining right now and I am lazy.


Shumdit:


I was going to add a 12V florescent lamp from an RV in the back of mine. That battery operated light is barely OK. What are you running off that inverter! Twelve hundred watts is a lot of power. Are you isolating batteries or do you have extras. I am interested in what you've done here.


Your platform setup is about what I was planning. I was going to leave a notch in one corner of the platform by the tailgate for a foot well when the tail gate is up. I used to camp out of my old long bed truck and cook off the tail gate and had enough room for just me. Now with the short bed and my young son, it's pretty tight, hence the tent.


Keep the ideas coming. PC, chime in here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,360 Posts
ShumDit said:
does anyone out there remove & replace their caps singlehandedly? If so, pls share methodology.

Got a garage?


I run a 2x4 under the front and rear of the cap, then a length wise 2x4 down each side. I've got two pieces of chain which attach to the front and rear of the cap 2x4's where they bolt together. Then I've got two rope block and tackles, the ones with the friction locks attached to two rings mounted through the sheetrock and into the roof trusses.


I crank it right up next to the ceiling and I've built a frame which hangs from the trusses and on either side of the fireplace notch in the garage. Then I park the truck underneath it. This requires backing the truck into the garage, but after all these years of backing into the bays at the Fire Station, that seems like the only way to do it...



I can do it myself and it keeps the cap out of the weather, spiders and wind storms.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts
ShumDit said:
I've a cab high Astro and use 3 2X6's that I layed 2 pieces of 5/8 plywood on. I store gear under and do an air mattress on top of the plywood. Cooking is done on the tailgate. Frankly, this arrangement is tight ~ can't sit up but the price is right & don't see it as a major inconvience ~ guess all those seasons in my youth camping out of the backseat of a '47 cad has conditioned me. I've installed a west marine mega fuse on the eng firewall and run 2ga (?) electrical cable (from a welding supply house) to the rear. Have a 1200W inverter but haven't teminated it permanently yet. Can't say I like Astros battery powered lighting (AA cells).


When I fitted the plywood ~ I noticed that the bed dimensions isn't linear ~ accordiningly its a tight fit in my case (I did want to to be close) and when I wanna remove the arrangement after the season, I find it tuff to remove/lift the cap to slide the plywood out ~ does anyone out there remove & replace their caps singlehandedly? If so, pls share methodology.




Why not cut the plywood in half and join it in the center with a piano hinge? That way you can simply lift the center and remove it without removing the topper.








Happy Easter!!!!!



Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,005 Posts
Guess I was unclear


The 2 pieces I mention butt together on the middle rung ~ hinges would make an impossible situation more impossible. To be able to get the pieces out the back, they must be significantly narrower which I wanted to avoid. Thanks for the response tho ~
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
646 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Shumdit:


I think Fireman (and I) was thinking the plywood was split lengthwise along the bed centerline. That is how I intended to do mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts
Kartattack said:
Shumdit:


I think Fireman (and I) was thinking the plywood was split lengthwise along the bed centerline. That is how I intended to do mine.




That is exactly what I meant. If it is hinged in the center (front to back), simply raise the middle a foot or two, and it should slide in and out with no problem.








Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
What is wrong with a tent on the ground? Just my thoughts, but you can get a way nicer ground tent than any tent you can put in the back of your pickup.


Keep all your food and stuff in the back of the pickup. It will save you LOTS of room.


Personally I just sleep in a Bivy Sack. Works just fine for me. And it only takes about 10 seconds to set up and take down.


Your not scurred of bears are you? I have only had a problem once or twice and both times I was fishing a salmon stream. No biggy, the bear is the boss, I just go away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,005 Posts
Fireman said:
Kartattack said:
Shumdit:


I think Fireman (and I) was thinking the plywood was split lengthwise along the bed centerline. That is how I intended to do mine.

That is exactly what I meant. If it is hinged in the center (front to back), simply raise the middle a foot or two, and it should slide in and out with no problem.


Kevin

Initially, I ruled out the lengthwise cut/approach because of perceived structural integrity issue in the center ~ but your comments got me thinking outside the box (more like the edge)
~ could run a lengthwise cut w/hinges in, say about 12" from one or even both edges ~ should do the trickw/o compromising strength in the center ~


Now, that thats been resolved ~ any thot for moving the cap short of a case of beer for the neighbors to come to assist? It must weight at least 250lbs or more. So far, its just stays there but if there was an easy way to remove/install it, I would be doing just that.








Edited by: ShumDit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts
One final comment on my hinge idea...


My thought is to install the continuous hinge (a.k.a. piano hinge) on the underside of the plywood, not the topside.


Unless you plan on loading the deck with more than 500 or 600 lbs., there should not be any problem with the strength/integrity of the hinge. (Just how bigga boy are ya anyway?)



I built a bed cover for a friend of mine a few months back. He wanted a "Fold-A-Cover" knock-off that was made of plywood. I made it a 4 section cover with continuous hinges. The top is made from 3/4" birch plywood. He has stacked as many as 12-14 50# bags of horse feed on it with no ill effects. The only support the cover has is around the perimeter at the bed rails.


His cover is not water tight, but he knew it wouldn't be before I made it. It actually came out pretty good..


Anyway, just food for thought...








Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts
Zeeb said:
ShumDit said:
does anyone out there remove & replace their caps singlehandedly? If so, pls share methodology.

Got a garage?


I run a 2x4 under the front and rear of the cap, then a length wise 2x4 down each side. I've got two pieces of chain which attach to the front and rear of the cap 2x4's where they bolt together. Then I've got two rope block and tackles, the ones with the friction locks attached to two rings mounted through the sheetrock and into the roof trusses.


I crank it right up next to the ceiling and I've built a frame which hangs from the trusses and on either side of the fireplace notch in the garage. Then I park the truck underneath it. This requires backing the truck into the garage, but after all these years of backing into the bays at the Fire Station, that seems like the only way to do it...



I can do it myself and it keeps the cap out of the weather, spiders and wind storms.




I think Zeeb's idea is the best bet.


I've thought of a couple of variations of it over the years. Here's one...How about using a ratcheting/reversable boat trailer winch mounted to the garage wall that is connected to a set if 4 cables mounted to the garage ceiling via eye bolts. Each eye bolt needs a small pulley connected to it, through which a small steel cable is run. So long as the 4 cable ends are initially the same distance from the floor, the topper will be raised/lowered completely level.


Use two nylon straps placed under the sides of the camper shell, one front and one rear, long enough to extend past the top of the camper shell, that can be connected to the cables with a snap ring.


The straps would be easy to slide under the sides of the shell for installing/removing the top by yourself, and would keep the topper secure while it is being stored.





Just a thought...








Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,005 Posts
Fireman said:
.................


Unless you plan on loading the deck with more than 500 or 600 lbs., there should not be any problem with the strength/integrity of the hinge. (Just how bigga boy are ya anyway?)



Kevin

Not huge enuff to hairy chest it off by myself
I like the continuous hinge idea in particular.



Lots of great comebacks ~ good concepts/ideas. Gradifying to know I'm not the only one giving thot to removal/replacement of a camper shell.


My garage ceiling is 10' but think the missus may have an issue w/a campershell being suspended from the ceiling ~ gonna explore it anyway. I like the nylon strap idea as I've been jacking, using blocks etc and am concerned abou the impact of doing so will have on the chintzey bed rails.


Thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
646 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Alaska Duramax:


The tent I am talking about does sit on the ground, but attaches to the truck bed/topper cap. I'm going o sleep under the topper and dine in the tent.


Few bears in west Texas, but they are coming over from Mexico so it mighn't be long before they are something to worry about. Now mountain lions, badgers, skunks, and Javelina we have plenty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,300 Posts
I spent 13 days in Yellowstone,GC,Bryce, Zion in dec/jan at 2 degrees. I have a propane 10,000btu heater. I have an 750 watt inverter, bedrug, snugtop, coffee maker, microwave (12v) 600w, custom single bed, sat radio, 2 burner stove, 6 gallons water, 12v flourescent lights.


It pretty much does the trick. I did not need anything else and I was on my trip for almost 3 weeks.





PM me if you need more info....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
646 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Hell yeah I want more info!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,360 Posts
ShumDit said:
My garage ceiling is 10' but think the missus may have an issue w/a campershell being suspended from the ceiling ~ gonna explore it anyway. I like the nylon strap idea as I've been jacking, using blocks etc and am concerned abou the impact of doing so will have on the chintzey bed rails.


Thanks again

Well I don't have a missus and my only close neighbor is in his late sixties so...


Any way, the way I do it is to remove the cap mounting bolts, then I get inside with the cross 2x4's, bend over and lift with my back, first the front end and put in one board, then the back end. Then I bolt the cap to the cross pieces.


When you bolt the length wise 2x4's on the outside of the cap, it forms a frame for the cap which it's bolted to. I use ring bolts at the corners which the chains attach to, sad experience says make them at least 5/16", not 1/4"....



I also have the holes in the 2x4's countersunk and the bolts cut off on the bottom, so if the wood frame happens to slide on the bed rails a little bit, it won't scratch the paint. Another sad experience learned from.


It also is wide enough that the chains don't contact the side of the cap. The reason I used chains is that I can put in a quick link at the balance point so it will lift evenly and can't slip. Then just take each side up or down about a foot at a time with the friction locks.


When it's mounted next to the ceiling and the truck is out of the garage, you can walk right under it. Only downside is that it blocks a little light from the florescent lights on the ceiling of the garage.Edited by: Zeeb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Ahh ok. I was just cornfused.


As for the wild animals.....Nothing like waking up, crawling out of the tent and look at a 85 pound Gray Wolf who is giving you the "Ahhh shizzz I'm busted and might hafta fight my wayouta this one"





But in truth it is the Moose than cause me more trouble than anything else. So I got myself a West siberian Liaka....problem solved.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top