[rod97301]

I ordered my truck (TPW: 2/2/04) with the trailering equipment and camper wiring provisions option. From what I understand, the wiring harness at the front of the bed makes it easy for the installation of the camper bed plug-in. However, I'm concerned about the hot lead wire running down the battery - apparently, I've been told that the "rundown protection" feature GM has only applies to things like the interrior cab stuff (radio) and lights, not the hot lead wire for trailers and campers... Now if I have been given bad information, I appreciate it if someone here could straighten me out. But if indeed this is the case, then I'll have to install an isolator for the hot lead wire going to my camper & trailer connections. So my question is how easy of a job is this? With GM's integrated wiring system, I'm not sure where the isolator would go... or do I need to default to running a wire directly to the batteries avoiding GM's hot lead altogether? I would like to avoid this as it's more of a work-around than a solution.


Any help would be appreciated!


Rod

 

[Max Power]

Personally I unhook my camper when I am at the destination so it is never an issue.


If you want to leave it hooked up you could either unplug the camper when your parked or you could install a relay so that there is only power on that wire when the ignition is on. This would only charge that battery when the key was on. Of course an isolator would accomplish the same thing.

 

[problemchild]

Put a relay to the drl's and have it switch the camper power on.

 

[Max Power]

Put a relay to the drl's and have it switch the camper power on.

Then the battery would only charge during the day and not at night

Edited by: Max Power

 

[gwmayes]

You've heard right. It's hot all the time IF YOU PUT A FUSE IN IT. One of the first things you will learn is that GM doesn't even install the @#$%& fuse to power that lead. You'll need to purchase a 30 or 40 amp "J" case fuse to put into the underhood fuse box. NAPA has them now.


I'm with Max Power, I just unplug my FW when I'm not going to be running down the road for a bit.


I don't care for the diode isolators. There is from .7 to 1.5 volt drop across the diode(s) and you don't do much charging. In fact in a system with perfect connections I find it difficult to force more than about 10-15 amps down that accessory/batt lead just due to line lengths/resistance.


I like the relay idea. A handy place to grab a "trigger" (only hot with ignition on) is the yellow wire going to the windshield wiper motor just above the brake master cylinder.Edited by: gwmayes

 

[mfendley]

The fuse is included with the wiring harness for the electronic brake controller. The harness is in the dash when you get your truck, unless the dealer pulls them out for some reason.

 

[neverenuf]

mfendley


Mine also was taped to the pig-tail for the electronic brake controller.

 

[gwmayes]

In '03 they stopped providing the harness. Have to buy it separately. Also, they changed the pinout which created a very dangerous situation when using '01-'02 harnesses on the '03.


BRAKES WOULD ACTIVATE WHEN THE HEADLIGHTS CAME ON!


Brilliant GM!


Are they including the harness with the '04s??

 

[Majuba Max]

my o4 still had the harness never used it pluged mine into the back reciever if you have a long enough cord from the camper