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Hi folks - I'm coming up to my first oil change. what have you folks found to be the best brand of oil that meet the specs? second question: What about this amsoil? is it better than standard oil and worth the extra cost?
Thanx much
 

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Oil:

I've been using Amsoil since 1976, best thing since sliced bread. Or put another way you can't go wrong using Amsoil.

Ken
 

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oil

Amsoil has the abuility to do the job but so does darn near every other quality diesel oil on the market.
 

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How many miles on your truck? Most all of us here recommend hitting at least 10K before going to any kind of synthetic. For standard dino oil I would use Mobil Delvac 1300 Super, Delvac MX or Shell Rotella T. Not recommed Citgo (for obvious reasons).

When you go synthetic, I would use Mobil Delvac 1, Hydrotex and Amsoil as a 3rd choice. When you ask about fluids on this forum you will get a ton of responses.
 

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Hey petlin,how dirty does your oil look?I have only a 1100 miles on my new LBZ and the oil looks a lot darker than my LB7 would at those miles.Any oil that meets the specs in your owners manual should be just fine.Try to get an oil that is readily available to you,you should not have to go out of your way to find oil.I work for a large company that has around 200 pieces of heavy equipment(caterpillar),every oil change gets a sample sent in.They have been using Mobil Delvac 1300S for many years.
 

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I have ran Rotella T in every truck I have had and have no issues. Now with that being said I am going to switch to Amsoil and a bypass filter and go extended drain intervals. I am just getting tired of doing oil changes almost every two weeks (I change per the dic or close to it when I am home) and then having to dispose of the waste oil.
 

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I have been a beleiver in synthetic oil for some time but now i am thinking a new routine. Tell me what you guys think. Synthethic runs $85-100 every oil change while penzoil runs around $65 so I can change the oil twice as much with regular oil for the same cost as one syn change. Since soot is what you really want to remove and these engines barely hit 3000 rpm does it not make sense to just use regular oil and change every 2k for the best engine porotection?
 

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Rotella T every 5K. Its all I have ever used, no problems. Previous truck 01 F350 7.3L PS, sold at 150K no motor problems.
 

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ROTELLA T is what i use and think its fine. i run heavy equipment for a living and our oil man uses it some equipment if that helps
 

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I use Convoy 15/40 oil made by Conklin. I have used it in my truck with a by-pass filter and have gone 65k before needing an oil change. I did oil analysis every 10k. Works great for me and I have used Conklin's Diesel Plus and never had a gelling issue with my truck!!
 

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YZ250B;1590101; said:
I have been a beleiver in synthetic oil for some time but now i am thinking a new routine. Tell me what you guys think. Synthethic runs $85-100 every oil change while penzoil runs around $65 so I can change the oil twice as much with regular oil for the same cost as one syn change. Since soot is what you really want to remove and these engines barely hit 3000 rpm does it not make sense to just use regular oil and change every 2k for the best engine porotection?
Mobil 1 full syn at $105 per case of 4/1gals. Truck takes 2 1/2 gals. Which syn are you buying?
 

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schaeffers 5w 40...i have seen tests and know it works...costs around 3.85 a quart..change it around 12,000 miles
 

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They all work fine, it's definitely a preference thing. I use Amsoil and Rotellea T synthetic.
 

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My oil drain/refill plus oil filter cost is around $65 (10 quarts & a filter).

Once a year I change the by-pass filters ($55 for both)

The Amsoil Preferred Customer program will save you quite a bit over retail.
 

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I am thinking about going with an Amsoil Bypass Filter. How often do you have to change your oil with the bypass filter? Do you use synthetic oil or regular?
This is my fisrt diesel and am new at it. Have almost 10,000 miles on it and changing the oil is costing me $55 apop. Just looking for a better and more efficient way. Thanks.
 

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You can save $$ if you change the oil yourself. Its very easy, get a Fumoto valve from Merchant Auto and that will make draining even easier. Send a sample of the oil to Blackstone labs if you want to see whats going on with the engine, but you'll be fine with a new dmax.

An oil topic search on this forum will keep you reading....
 

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Rotella T and a good filter like Wix or NAPA Gold would be economical choice.

Full synthetic is not needed IMHO.
 

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Synthetic pays off only if you plan to extend your drain intervals through filter changes and oil analysis or in very very very cold climates IMO.
If you change synthetic on the same schedule as you would normally, you're wasting lots of $$.
3 UOA's on Delo 400 15/40 at between 5k and 7.5k have shown good numbers for me, and that's what I plan to stick with. $29 with a NG filter.
My $.0002
 

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Dino Rotella here, until I hit the 10-15k mark then Syn Rotella. Rotella has been good to me and my blackstone reports come back good (other trucks) even with my Triple dog.

BUT YOU MUST GET A FUMOTO VALVE. The first time you change oil in a diesel you will not have to ask "Why do I need a Fumoto valve":D The drain plug holes are large and the amount of oil that wants out seems like gallons(oh wait it is:eek: ) and has the pressure of your garden hose.
When you forgot to open the vent on the drain pan, or the oil pan bolt falls into and plugs the hole in the drain pan and it starts to overflow....oops!<-------That my friend is "Why you need a Fumoto valve"?
Oh yeah I change my oil (warm/hot) so the 'ole thumb over the hole trick does work but it is painful:mad: .
 

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i use rotella 5w40 synthetic and change it every 10,000miles. i change the oil filter every 5,000miles.

and yes, fumoto valve is a MUST. just put one on my jeep a few weeks ago when it got its oilchanged
 
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