[schulte]

Anyone install taillights directly in the rear of the OEM rear bumber? I'm thinkg of adding 3 round LED tail/turn/brake lights or 2 oval LED tail/turn/brake lights to each side. I'm looking to cut into the chrome of the bumper and mount them flush.

 

[Ogre]

What are you going to do with the original lights? keep em functional or remove and fill int he area and make it flush with the curve of the bed?

 

[schulte]

I was planning on keeping the originals in place and operating; I've got hideaway strobes in them, so I want to leave them in. I'm just looking to add to the rear of the truck.

 

[5Cent]

Anyone install taillights directly in the rear of the OEM rear bumber? I'm thinkg of adding 3 round LED tail/turn/brake lights or 2 oval LED tail/turn/brake lights to each side. I'm looking to cut into the chrome of the bumper and mount them flush.

Would be pretty cool. I added backup lights on my 92 Cherokee, stock ones just weren't bright enough for me.

I'd love to see some LED's in a rear stock bumper.

 

[heymccall]

I think it would be doable and look cool, but:

1. you would need a steady hand and a plasma cutter after fully disassembling the bumper.

2. wouldn't the lamps be turned down slighty, making led lamps less effective.

3. wouldn't it suck if the missing material allowed the ends of the bumper to vibrate or shake.

4. wouldn't it really suck if a light rear offset impact pushed the bumper into the shiny quarter panel, when an uncut bumper wouldn't.

5. how would you seal the edges to prevent corrosion.

 

[schulte]

I think it would be doable and look cool, but:

1. you would need a steady hand and a plasma cutter after fully disassembling the bumper.

2. wouldn't the lamps be turned down slighty, making led lamps less effective.

3. wouldn't it suck if the missing material allowed the ends of the bumper to vibrate or shake.

4. wouldn't it really suck if a light rear offset impact pushed the bumper into the shiny quarter panel, when an uncut bumper wouldn't.

5. how would you seal the edges to prevent corrosion.

You've thought through a lot of the same issues I have; of which I've only come up with solutions for some.

1. I would probably pay a welding shop to do this, especially because I have no access to a plasma. It would take forever and be a PITA to do it with a dremel or recip. saw.

2. It depends on where in the bumper I mounted them, and how large they were. I haven't taken a close enough look to be able to tell. You could be right, and that could defeat the entire purpose.

3. Yes. I'd have to make sure I'm not removing enough to drastically change the structual component of the bumper.

4. This's comletely possible. This wouldn't be a problem unless I hit something myself, or I can't catch whoever hit me. My rear lower quarterpanels (below the trim line) are Line-X'd anywas, so the shiny wouldn't be much of an issue, but denting would.

5. Sealing would depend on how close to perfect the holes could be. You can get ruber gaskets designed to mount lights in sheet metal surfaces. In addition, I would probably force some silicone in there during installation, and then apply a bead around on the inside.

I appreciate the ideas; definately things to consider.

 

[runnwo]

Use a good hole saw, slow rpms, lots of oil on it and it should cut right through. I have used hole saws to cut steel over 1" think

 

[heymccall]

Use a good hole saw, slow rpms, lots of oil on it and it should cut right through. I have used hole saws to cut steel over 1" think

The chrome plating makes it very difficult for a hole saw to start and it becomes troublesome to apply force to counteract the kickback when it does.

 

[heymccall]

5. Sealing would depend on how close to perfect the holes could be. You can get ruber gaskets designed to mount lights in sheet metal surfaces. In addition, I would probably force some silicone in there during installation, and then apply a bead around on the inside.

I was refering to corrosion creeping under the chrome at the cut edge due to the bumper being made of a less rust resistant variety than big rig western bumpers.

 

[tysmith]

If this is going to be a project...

Why not instead of just cutting holes, cut and make recessed boxes for the lights to fit in? Then, they could be structurally sound, sealed from the back where lots of road rime collects, etc..

When this is all done, send the bumper out to be re-chromed, and your good to go. It would make a cool project, and probably not too spendy in comparison to a full rear replacement.

Just a thought...

 

[Polarbear]

I was refering to corrosion creeping under the chrome at the cut edge due to the bumper being made of a less rust resistant variety than big rig western bumpers.

That would be my main concern... IMO once youve pierced the chrome youve started the countdown to the bumper rusting on ya. I just dont think you would be able to seal it up perfectly...again JMO

 

[Tom S.]

The chrome plating makes it very difficult for a hole saw to start and it becomes troublesome to apply force to counteract the kickback when it does.

I used a hole saw to install the plug for my engine heater. Started with a center punch, then a 1/4" pilot hole and then the 2" hole saw. Had no problems, just went slow and easy.

 

[m.gil]

to make the holes you could use a hole saw ,or if you know an electrician ,he may have a knock out punch that you could use. it makes a cleaner hole than the hole saw, i used one on a utility box and it came out pretty good , just make sure you use the right size.

 

[Tom S.]

to make the holes you could use a hole saw ,or if you know an electrician ,he may have a knock out punch that you could use. it makes a cleaner hole than the hole saw, i used one on a utility box and it came out pretty good , just make sure you use the right size.

Only problem with a knock out punch is they can distort the metal around the opening. If memory serves me, the bigger the hole, the more likely you will have some distortion (but I'm getting old and I may have this reversed).

 

[tmg115]

well you could go the easy way like i did and buy a ranch hand rear and just put the oval stop tail and turns in the holes already there.

 

[m.gil]

Only problem with a knock out punch is they can distort the metal around the opening. If memory serves me, the bigger the hole, the more likely you will have some distortion (but I'm getting old and I may have this reversed).

thats true especially if the punch is dull it will distort the metal , also depends on the thickness of the metal.when i did my utility body i had a brand new punch and it worked great. the advatage to using the punch is it is a little safer and no heat build up, unlike the hole saw.

 

[cumminstrokthis]

I used a hole saw to relocate my trailers light and brake thing. It went through fine, nice and slow and I didnt use any cutting oil.

 

[schulte]

well you could go the easy way like i did and buy a ranch hand rear and just put the oval stop tail and turns in the holes already there.

I know this's the right way, but it kinda beats the purpose I'm goin at . I'm in school right now, I don't $400 for a replacement rear bumper, but I might have $90 for a few round LED lights.