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Discussion Starter #1
Well I picked up a new Dodge Friday night. Only have a little over a hundered miles on it so far. This is a 3500, 2WD, Dually, with the CTD 600, and the 48RE trans.



I would like to get feedback on breaking in the engine and trans. I have heard arguments to change the Oil & filters at 500 miles to remove residue from castings and such, and then again at 1-2K. I have also heard that the oil should not be changed for the first 3k miles to let the fine particles help seat all the parts. I have not heard any recommendations for the trans yet, but would expect that similar considerations would be in order. Also, a friend of mine on the list posted ths seperately, but I seem to be getting a lot of valve clatter, particularly noticable at low throttle input. Seems to clear at idle, and not too noticable with heavier throttle. Is this normal?


Any thoughts on improvements for drivability, and longevity would be appreciated. Thanks, Eric
 

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I know in the owners manual they WANT you to load the motor after the first 500 miles to help break it in.

I never heard such a thing as leaving particles in the motor to help break in the motor. I would hope and expect the oil filter to remove these particles.

The rear is another story. I have 1000 miles on mine and will be installing a Mag Hytek cover and Red Line synthetic shortly. The rear can and does get quite hot and I've seen lots of metal in the lube over the years with different vehicles. The rear has no filter so it's a good idea to change it soon.

Do not use synthetic oil in the motor unless it's fully broken in. The manual states 6000 miles if you work the truck and as high as 10,000 if you do not.

You cannot go wrong changing most fluids sooner than later.
 

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All filters will pass some amount of particulate, some trap finer material than others. I think that it is this very fine particulate that acts more like a polish than an abrasive, to help seat all the parts.


I know with the race motors I have rebuilt, that the quickest way to break it in, is to use dino oil, and to leave it in there, till things seat. The two shops that are well known in this field have shown that following this procedure can significantly reduce the break in, and have noted several instances where the engines have taken significantly longer than normal to break in when the fluids were replaced prematurely (I also think they were babied a little more as well). Typically this is checked with leak down, where 4-5% is a good running engine, and they will typically start out at 10-12% when assembled.


This is why I asked about changing the oil at 500 miles. I was also curious if anyone had done this and had an oil analysis, or filter analysis done. I will likely wait at least 1000 miles before the first oil change. Not sure if the Cummins has a port to do leak down, will have to look. If so, I can track this to see how things progress.


I do like the look of the Mag Hytek cover. Please let me know what you think of it once you have it installed. Sounds like it makes a lot of sense.


Thanks for the response.
 

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Sounds like you know a bit about this. My truck at 1000 miles, the oil still looks like it was just put in. Gold like honey.

The Mag Hytek is a really nice product. It adds a few more quart capacity ( I believe 8 total) and between the extra capacity and the cooling fins, magnet, dipsick, thermocouple port, drain plug, stainless hardware, o-ring seal... you can't go wrong.
 

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If your oil is still clear, tow a "small" 20' tandem axel trailer with a 4 ton load on a 18 hour round trip. I did this with my 2004 600 Cummins, quad cab 4x4 at 600 miles on the clock with 4 buddys en route to our deer lease to set up feeders one weekend.


To me, pulling this load, you could obviously tell something was behind you when you were taking off, but after you got about 30mph it started getting hard to notice anything was behind you. And the more miles I racked up on the truck on the trip, it seemed to be making a little more power. I have a little over 1,800 miles on it now and the oil defiently looks on the used side, but as per my diesel mechanic friend who works for a diesel shop who specializes(Spelling?) in cummins told me for the initial oil change, change it at 3,000 and every oil change after at 7,000 miles.
 

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Yeah good point.. I understand that Load is required for a proper break in procedure right?Also its important that the engine spends time in all RPM ranges right?


AFTER break-in, I'm wondering if any of you guys use AMSOIL products?


Ram
 

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I changed both the Front and Rear Differential oil yesterday. Truck 5,000 km on the nose. Used a friend's shop. I did the work but has he was a mechanic in his previous life he had all the tools and the knowledge. He tried to get in the way a few times but I kept him on the straight and narrow.


There is a nice gasket on the front and rear diff. A rigid rubber type. I took my time loosening the bolts and allow both diff to drain and took everything slowly. I took the covers off. The two gaskets were impeccable. I cleaned the interior and covers with var-sol and blew it with an air gun when it appeared dry to get anything else out.


Took me a while to fill the front diff as the torsion bar is in the way. I used a gear oil bottle with a tip on it and a rubber flex hose. more room at the back.


I put full synthetic 75W90 GL5 syntec oil (Nemco brand, Canadian). I have no experience in this matter but the old oil was flowing nice but king or a bluish gray look to it. Didn't find any filings. I ran my fingers in the old oil and rubbed them together and felt nothing granules.


Well If nothing else I feel better having it done.


Thanks for the advice on the Motor oil. I never knew why they recommend to keep the Dino oil in at first but now I know.


Some one recommended I change the oil filter at 6,000 km, top it off and change everything at 12,000 km. What do you think?
 

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Canadian_Frank said:
I changed both the Front and Rear Differential oil yesterday. Truck 5,000 km on the nose. Used a friend's shop. I did the work but has he was a mechanic in his previous life he had all the tools and the knowledge. He tried to get in the way a few times but I kept him on the straight and narrow.


There is a nice gasket on the front and rear diff. A rigid rubber type. I took my time loosening the bolts and allow both diff to drain and took everything slowly. I took the covers off. The two gaskets were impeccable. I cleaned the interior and covers with var-sol and blew it with an air gun when it appeared dry to get anything else out.

Frank, did you re-use the same gasket?
 

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YES


My Friend/adviser told me to make sure they went back the same way so I took them off, hung them and replaced them facing the same direction. I also used some kind of Copper spray stuff he had for gasket. I can find out what it was and post same.


I had bought some expensive silicone high heat resistant and he told me the original seals were much better. Edited by: Canadian_Frank
 

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I used Amsoil in the 2000 and plan to do so with this truck.
 

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I have 150 miles on my "600" and will get the other required 350 break-in miles this week. My question is this, I plan on towing my 5500lb Travel trailer as soon as I get my 500 mile break-in and the owner's manual states to only drive 50 mph for the first 500 towing miles, would it hurt to drive 60mph?
 

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Well, I now have about 4K miles. I towed about 5K lbs at around 350 miles, and ran between 60 and 70 mph by the time I got to 400 miles. I opened the rear end at 3000 miles, and changed the engine oil, and can see no adverse affects. I will say that for the first 1000 miles I made sure that I accelerated easily, and tried to make sure that the shifts went as smoothly as possible (especiallly as you approach 50 mph, where the torque convert locks - I think).


I would say go ahead and tow, but just take it easy with regards to acceleration. I do not see too much issue with running steady state at 50mph versus 60, or even 70 mph. Just my $0.02.
 

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Don't stay at a rpm range for hours at a time, vary your engine speed and road speed to get a variety. The piston rings need to seat in the first couple of thousand miles, so try and get the engine warmed to normal every time you drive. Try not to drive a couple of miles and shut it off.
 

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THANKS FOR THE INFO., I PLAN TO BREAK IT IN AS NOTED AND LOOK FORWARD TO LETTING YOU ALL KNOW HOW SHE PERFORMS.



IDABOWEdited by: IDABOW
 

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I have 300 miles on mine now.. Drove it easy for about 40 miles and then "floored it" to 3000 rpms..Then I let off and back down to 50... Then strongly to 60..65 to 70,,,,. Put it cruise and set it at 55 then climbed along steep grade... MPG now at 16 mpg....
 
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