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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All

@heymccall
I realize you are busy, and sometimes on the road, if you would please share some advice sir.

Got the truck with 75,000 miles on it. Never in my opinion had good brakes. Seems like lots of pedal travel before brakes engage. Now with 93,000. Miles Just finished complete brake job , rotors, pads , hoses, slides, and hardware. (All old rotors looked good, pads still plenty of meat on them.) Flushed master cylinder, and lines.

Flushed power steering, and hydro boost, several times now. Air bled with vacuum system, gravity bled, and the old stand by buddy system. Bottom line is still excess brake pedal free travel in my opinion. My go to mechanic looked at it Tuesday
Says nothing wrong, says just like other GM trucks he has driven, ABS works fine. Plenty of stopping power. He said no reason to attach scan tool, no safety issues, just drive it.

No codes, no warning lights illuminated. Brake pedal moves about two inches before brakes are engaged . Basically the top half of pedal travel.

Looking forward to your reply, and suggestions.

Any one else with this situation, and if so ,how did you fix it.?

Thank you for all you do, and share. (y) :unsure:
 

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Hello All

@heymccall
I realize you are busy, and sometimes on the road, if you would please share some advice sir.

Got the truck with 75,000 miles on it. Never in my opinion had good brakes. Seems like lots of pedal travel before brakes engage. Now with 93,000. Miles Just finished complete brake job , rotors, pads , hoses, slides, and hardware. (All old rotors looked good, pads still plenty of meat on them.) Flushed master cylinder, and lines.

Flushed power steering, and hydro boost, several times now. Air bled with vacuum system, gravity bled, and the old stand by buddy system. Bottom line is still excess brake pedal free travel in my opinion. My go to mechanic looked at it Tuesday
Says nothing wrong, says just like other GM trucks he has driven, ABS works fine. Plenty of stopping power. He said no reason to attach scan tool, no safety issues, just drive it.

No codes, no warning lights illuminated. Brake pedal moves about two inches before brakes are engaged . Basically the top half of pedal travel.

Looking forward to your reply, and suggestions.

Any one else with this situation, and if so ,how did you fix it.?

Thank you for all you do, and share. (y) :unsure:
I wonder.....

Could it, would it have anything to do with a past driver driving with their foot resting on the pedal all the time and now you don't? Idk why, but that popped into my head.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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2019 Silverado HD 2500 LTZ ZR1 Metallic Black 6.6 Duramax
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My LTZ has an adjustable brake pedal, I’m sure that you have already checked something that easy though.
 

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Hello All

@heymccall. . . Seems like lots of pedal travel before brakes engage. Now with 93,000. Miles Just finished complete brake job , rotors, pads , hoses, slides, and hardware. (All old rotors looked good, pads still plenty of meat on them.) Flushed master cylinder, and lines.

Any one else with this situation, and if so ,how did you fix it.?
IIRC 15 years ago when it was new I had the same concern. But I soon chalked it up to hydro boost instead of a "normal" system I was used to. I have never thought about it since until you mentioned it. I vote with your mechanic . . . it seems normal to me now and I have never had any issues.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My LTZ has an adjustable brake pedal, I’m sure that you have already checked something that easy though.
Appreciate the reply, wish that it was that simple (y)
L8R
 

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Have you either a) activated the full ABS by slamming the brakes on at 15mph in a gravel or mud lot
Or
2) had the "automated brake bleed procedure" properly done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mr. Heymccall
Thank you for your reply (y)
I activated the ABS system multiple times on a gravel road , speeds varied from 30 to 50 mph. Brought it back to shop , let it cool down, and bleed brakes again. I have done that 3 times.

My mechanic checked everything I had done, then he drove it around on a gravel road, doing the same thing. His diagnosis, drive it. Brake pedal feels to him same as other GM trucks.

Brake pedal is firm, pumping brake pedal while driving does not bring the pedal up higher. Pedal free travel is about 2 inches down before activating brakes, pedal if firm not spongy, braking action is good, just lots of pedal travel.

Thank you Sir.
L8R
 

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If it's that much free travel, but works great otherwise, I'd think to check the linkage for slop and / or the geometry as in a non-oem pedal arm or push rod (or HB) that was changed.

FWIW, I drive a truck 99.9% of the time since I was 15. When I do drive a car, I almost always slam the breaks because they are far more sensitive than any truck I'ver ever driven, including my LBZ since new. So are the steering and acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mp0
Appreciate the reply, I have looked at the linkage briefly, checked for slop or loose bushings, did not see anything with a quick once over, will take another closer look as time permits. I know what you are saying about driving a car, I do the same, when driving the wife's car.

Doing research on H / B systems all the supplier's says pedal feel should be noticed at the top of pedal travel, give or take half in.

Thanks, have a great day (y) :)
L8R
 
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Remove master cylinder nuts.
Draw cylinder forward.
Measure booster protrusion vs master cylinder depth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Remove master cylinder nuts.
Draw cylinder forward.
Measure booster protrusion vs master cylinder depth.
Will check it tomorrow.
Thanks (y)
L8R
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Will check it tomorrow.
Thanks (y)
L8R
@heymccall

M/ C. Hub protrusion. .622
H / B. depth. .650. / .675.
Roughly. .050 Clearence. Between the two.

Both M/ C. & H / B original from factory.
Green loctite on bolt threads, and no that is not fluid , on wet appearing area bottom of H/ B .

Thank you. (y) :)
L8R
 

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Does this have drum or disc back brakes? If you have drums, raise the rear end and adjust both sides until they barely drag. This the way a brake mechanic taught me to adjust brakes. This always gets me very little pedal travel.
 

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the rod length you did is a good check
also check the rotor runout, shoot for .001 if possible, makes a big difference in peddle travel about the only way to get this is with the latest model of a on vehicle rotor lathe
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
@heymccall
And all that have replied

Hello All
All the replys are appreciated.
I may have found a source of some of the problem. While looking under the dash and towards the firewall I did find the rod end of the H/B that is attached to the brake pedal showing signs of leaking. .

So, now McCall, with all of the H / B. & M / C you have replaced is there a brand , or manufacturer you have used that is better than others, which ones to stay away from. New. , not remanufactured. I think the M /C will be replaced while changing H / B. Hopefully We will have good brakeing action starting at the top of pedal travel.

Thanks to everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
@heymccall
And all that have replied

Hello All
All the replys are appreciated.
I may have found a source of some of the problem. While looking under the dash and towards the firewall I did find the rod end of the H/B that is attached to the brake pedal showing signs of leaking. .

So, now McCall, with all of the H / B. & M / C you have replaced is there a brand , or manufacturer you have used that is better than others, which ones to stay away from. New. , not remanufactured. I think the M /C will be replaced while changing H / B. Hopefully We will have good brakeing action starting at the top of pedal travel.

Thanks to everyone.

Hello all
While researching H/B replacement I see where guys are installing H / B from 2011. LML into some of the older trucks. Supposed to be direct bolt in. Should fit my 2007. Classic. Resulting in much better pedal feel. And price is considerable less than H / B. for the classic. Any one here in the forum made this kind of change. ?:unsure:

Thanks for the info. (y)
L8R
 

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Hello all
While researching H/B replacement I see where guys are installing H / B from 2011. LML into some of the older trucks. Supposed to be direct bolt in. Should fit my 2007. Classic. Resulting in much better pedal feel. And price is considerable less than H / B. for the classic. Any one here in the forum made this kind of change. ?:unsure:

Thanks for the info. (y)
L8R
I did. A buddy did recently as well. Both LBZ. Ya need to increase the size of the hole in the push rod just slightly. Like a 1/16 of an inch. Something about the switches needing to rotate or something. A buddy didn't and then had to after having an issue - something about switches not functioning right. So do it before you install the 2011 HB. I also purchased a new seal for the firewall. But it wasn't needed. YMMV.

Btw, don't be surprised if your brakes act like a car brake (touchy) when you're done. But it won't last. Right back to being like a truck. I get the same experience when I bleed the PS. Touchy only for a few days after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks. Mp0
Sounds like it may not be worth it. Other than much less expense.
Thanks (y)
L8R
 
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