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I eclipsed the 70K mile mark sometime back and this past weekend I decided to rotate the tires and conduct a brake inspection. Under the assumption that the brakes would be pretty far worn with 70K+miles, I bought new ones in advance. So I got the truck all off the ground and got to removing the wheels. Upon my inspection I looked at the brake pads and they look brand new
. So I mic'd the new pads then mic'd the pads still in the truck. They are still at about 80%....The rears mic'd the same. Actually all 4 corners mic'd very uniformily. I am the original owner of the truck and have not replaced the pads, they are the pads delivered with the truck. I tow a 11Klb trailer routinely as some of you may know, I also tow a boat and this is my daily driver and I drive in bumper to bumper traffic.


What is everybody else finding with their brake pad life?


I am used to 30K miles and they are toast. My previously owned 93 and 96 Dually would last about that long, then be spent. Now I understand that with 4 wheel discs it will increase brake stability and assist in front pad longevity...Just curious. At this rate I will be able to go well over 120K miles before I am required to change them...


Jeff
 

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Jeff


I just broke 40K on my 02 and, like yours, has the original pads. I rotated the tires last week and inspected the brakes. The pads were like brand new and the rotors were smooth with no grooves at all.
Very impressive. I hope to get 100K out of em'.


Chris
 

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A local auto repair shop told me he had a customer that pulled a loaded trailer with a 1 ton Ford PSD with a manual transmission, and had to replace the brakes about every 30,000 to 40,00 miles. The customes got a new 02 D/A Dually and had over 70,000 miles and still original brakes. He said it was the Allison Transmission that was saving the brakes. After pulling my 28 ft. 5th wheel this summer I can see why the brakes last so long. The transmission does a lot of the braking for you.
 

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Got to love that transmission but I would rather replace the brakes
 

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55,000 miles, brakes checked during oil change... pads had 75% left on them......
 

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One of the things the salesmen all bragged about when the new 2500HD and 3500 came along as 2001s was that they should have 4 times better brake life than their predecessors. Since my old '91 is past 200,000 miles on the original pads (ain't asbestos great?
) I guess I should expect 800,000 or more from these.
 

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I have 92k on my truck and replaced my shoes and pads. I have some questions if someone may know? One, My shoes were worn on the ends only, so replaced! What would cause this? Two, My inside pad on the passenger side was just about worn down to an 1/8 of a inch and the outside pad about 3/8". The driver side had a whole lot more. lol. They were replaced as well.


Now to throw the loop in to the bunch. What would cause a front end shimmy around 40 MPH while breaking only? It did it before and after the brakes were replaced? I don't think the rotors are warped but not ruling it out?


HELP, lol
 

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Ok, I just went through this myself. 65,000 miles on the odometer and the original brake pads still had at least 50% left on them. I was getting some pulsation on the brakes so I decided to have the rotors turned. The only problem was that the rotors had worn much faster than the stock pads. The front rotors couldn't be safely turned and the rear ones were toast.


Cost of front pads: $250/pair


Cost of rear pads: $250/pair


Cost of front rotors: $150


Cost of rear rotors: $800


It's great that the stock pads last so long, but the cost of replacing the rotors far exceeds the advantage. I did find the rear rotors for about $550/pair. It was recommended by some that I replace the pads with softer pads to save the rotors, but I really like the grip of the stock pads and I didn't want to deal with the dust typically associated with softer pads.
 

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equis,


Might be a stuck caliper. I think heartbeatcanada had the same problem and he pulled his caliper off and fixed it. I had a brake issue that felt like a stuck caliper about a month ago, come to find out that both parking brake assemblies were full of rust and there was even some rust on the slides the pads sit on. The dealer cleaned and lubed certain spots and it's better now. I don't know if it's 100% gone because from time to time it feels like something still may be dragging but it's alot better than before.


The shimmy can be warped rotors but that's just a thought. Hope it helps.


LA DMAX
 

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>Cost of front pads: $250/pair


>Cost of rear pads: $250/pair


>Cost of front rotors: $150


>Cost of rear rotors: $800


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


The rotors for my ol' 95 K1500 were like 30 bucks a piece. *cough* *gasp* *wheez*Edited by: CStone
 

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You got ripped off. Sorry man but you should have atleast checked around.


I just purchased (like today) pads and rotors all the way around for 650.31 from raceshopper.com.


Oh and these are High Performance Hawk pads and Powerslot Rotors.


Oh my brakes hav 53k on them and the rears are shot. Front are about 50%. But I have been known to do a Brake stand once and awhile.


Captain Beefheart said:
Ok, I just went through this myself. 65,000 miles on the odometer and the original brake pads still had at least 50% left on them. I was getting some pulsation on the brakes so I decided to have the rotors turned. The only problem was that the rotors had worn much faster than the stock pads. The front rotors couldn't be safely turned and the rear ones were toast.


Cost of front pads: $250/pair


Cost of rear pads: $250/pair


Cost of front rotors: $150


Cost of rear rotors: $800


It's great that the stock pads last so long, but the cost of replacing the rotors far exceeds the advantage. I did find the rear rotors for about $550/pair. It was recommended by some that I replace the pads with softer pads to save the rotors, but I really like the grip of the stock pads and I didn't want to deal with the dust typically associated with softer pads.
 

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Alaska Duramax said:
You got ripped off. Sorry man but you should have atleast checked around.

Maybe so, but I wanted to stay with the OEM setup. I do a lot of trailering and I was concerned with using aftermarket products (I've heard lots of good and bad about them).


I'd be interested in knowing if the aftermarket replacements last as long as the OEMs (approximately 80,000 miles).
 

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Ok, so where did you get the front rotors for $150. Inquiring minds want to know. Then I will replace the front calipers also for like $23 a piece too. Hopefully that will do it:)
 

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I called my local Chevy Stealership. Prices are as follows and I recieve no special discout or anything.


Front and rear Pads = 142 per set


Front Rotors= 133 EACH


Rear Rotors = 189 EACH


Ryan Chevrolet in Minot North Dakota.
 

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OMG, you sure? My dealership here wanted a bit over $400 a peice for my front rotors. I will have to call another dealership!
 

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I would never have paid $800 for two rotors. That is ridiculous for factory replacements. Not to mention $250 for brake pads. That is highway robbery anyway you cut it. The prices don't even make sense. It sounds like some dealers are just ripping people off. No big surprise there...
 

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Yes I am serious. I posted the name of the dealership. Call if you think I am lying. I think that thier priced are like WAY high still. But 800 is just insane.


Like I said before go to raceshopper.com and they have good prices on high quality upgrade pads and rotors.


I called and talked to hawk for about 45 minutes. SUPER helpful.t they are designed to do. They have the standard hipo pads that are the HPS and then they have a heavy duty application HPSD. Compounds are significantly different. The HPS is designed for hard initial bite and Reduced fade. The HPSD is designed for Even Further reduced fade and Longevity with high heat situation.


The guy didn't own a Dmax, but did have a 02 Ferd and pulled a 5wheel. Asked me what my usual load was and how often I pulled it. I said that I pulled about 25-50% of the time and my load was either my Harley or my Jeep. No camper or anything. He recommended the HPS pads. They do pads for a living so I took them at thier word. Here are the Part Numbers I ordered.


Front= HB322F.717


Rear= HB323F.724


If you want the HPSD just remove the "F" and insert a "P".


Even though they do not make rotors the guy went on to recommend the powerslot rotors because of the slotting style they use. It is not a fully slotted or vented rotor as traditionally thought. Its slots are not all the way through the rotor. This is helping with the warping associated with sloted and vented rotors. But the slots are still deep enough and taked to the outer diameter to allow for gas venting.


For those that don't know Brake fade is caused by Gas trapped between the rotor and pad. Gas is caused by heat. Heat by friction. However we want friction! Afterall that is what stops us. So brakes must be designed to deal with the Heat and Gas. Slotted and vented rotors do a great job dealing with the gas. However the design is inherently weaker than a standard solid rotor and hence they have a tendancy to warp.


I have run Vented rotors on my Jeep for many years. Luckily my rotors are big enough and the Jeep light enough that I have not needed to worry about the extreme heat buildup and warping of the vented rotors. Our Big Pickups are a different story.


They small rotors and huge weight equal bad juju. That is where the Powerslot rotors come in. They are solid but with machined slots to vent the gas. In theory they are the best of both worlds.


Powerslot Part numbers


Front=8692PSL and PSR


Rear= 8691PSL and PSR


I have yet to recieve or install them but assure you that I will report good or bad as to thier performance.Edited by: Alaska Duramax
 

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I think I see why mine are so expensive? My rear drum is like 100 pounds and the front rotor is 45 pounds. My truck is a dually also. I have found the front rotors for 150 now, but not sure if I am going to go with the slotted rotors due to the loads I haul. Here is the only pic of my truck I have.





 

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I have read that many guys are getting over 100,000 miles before the front need replaced, and at those miles the rear look very good.


I have 55,000 miles and they all four look like new.


I had an 97 Z71 with 11" of lift and 37" tires, and I had to replace the fronts evey 50,000 or so , while the rears was good for about 100,000 miles. Amd with that truck, I had to replace the front rotors and rear drums at approximately 186,000 miles. (14 bolt rear) the cost was up around $400 if I remember correctly. $125 a piece for the rear drums, compared too $40 each for the 10 bolt on most 1/2 tons.


The way I look at it is, the bigger the truck, the more it cost to play/work.
 
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