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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I was trying to remove a broken starter bolt. I was over zealous and drilled into the block. When I pulled out, coolant was draining out of the hole. The hole is 5/32. Can this be filled with black silicone, braze, welded, plugged? Thanks for all the help.:banghead::bawl::mad::eek::duh::crap:
 

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How about drilling and tapping for a screw in pipe plug?
 
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Did you get the broken piece out and are the threads in the block ok? If so I wonder if you could put some kind of sealant on a new starter bolt and just screw it in. Be kind of like a head bolt that goes into coolant? other than that welding is the only way I can think of and I doubt you could do that in the truck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was thinking that too wally world. Use black silcone, and something for the treads. I also like the plug idea. Coolant is coming out as I type this. Bolt still needs to be removed. Hopefully the threads are in good shape. I had trouble with the drilling and am real close to the edge of bolt.
 

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Let's take the Truck!
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Trouble is that you drilled off the bolt to the side? Or all the way through the bolt?:eek:
 
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How close is that water jacket to the bolt hole? What happens if somehow the bolt cracks the edge of the block/bolt hole? Get a new engine?
 
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R.I.P. Sam
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I'd fill the hole with RTV or maybe even JB Weld. To top it off, some Permatex thread sealant on the bolt would help, a sealant that doesn't harden, so the bolt and threads arn't an issue later.
Teflon tape isn't a sealant, all it does is make threads slipperier, so that threads can tighten a little more and lock into place.
 
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Ewww... on the plus side, you now have an easy to reach block drain for the drivers side...

I would flush the block, get the hole uber clean and squirting in some jbweld and coat the bolt with anti seize and bolt it together, wait the full cure time for the jb, then clean up the starter mount face and put the starter in and pray... pray hard.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Ewww... on the plus side, you now have an easy to reach block drain for the drivers side...

I would flush the block, get the hole uber clean and squirting in some jbweld and coat the bolt with anti seize and bolt it together, wait the full cure time for the jb, then clean up the starter mount face and put the starter in and pray... pray hard.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I will be praying. :bow:
 

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Didn't used to be uncommon on older cars for exhaust manifold bolts to enter water jackets. I'd prob'ly use aviation Permatex on the threads and go for it. Allow to dry well before refilling with water.

The good news is that you'll be able to see if you have a leak, and also, it's not a leak that will increase in size if you Do have one. A bit of seepage can often be cured with sodium silicate or Barrs Leaks.

When I drilled my broken starter bolts, I used a drill bushing to keep it in the middle of the bolt, only drilled in just a tad, then used a left hand drill to back the bolt out....Joe
 

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Hey guys,

I was trying to remove a broken starter bolt. I was over zealous and drilled into the block. When I pulled out, coolant was draining out of the hole. The hole is 5/32. Can this be filled with black silicone, braze, welded, plugged? Thanks for all the help.:banghead::bawl::mad::eek::duh::crap:
After you're all done with this, figure out why the bolt broke. Support bracket missing from the block?
 
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Didn't used to be uncommon on older cars for exhaust manifold bolts to enter water jackets. I'd prob'ly use aviation Permatex on the threads and go for it. Allow to dry well before refilling with water.

The good news is that you'll be able to see if you have a leak, and also, it's not a leak that will increase in size if you Do have one. A bit of seepage can often be cured with sodium silicate or Barrs Leaks.

When I drilled my broken starter bolts, I used a drill bushing to keep it in the middle of the bolt, only drilled in just a tad, then used a left hand drill to back the bolt out....Joe
What does a drill bushing look like. This was my second starter bolt. The first time I used a punch to get me a spot to center it. This bolt, I tried it but the transmission lines were in the way. I should have cleared them, but tried to do it without disconnecting them. Not working in my garage. I have a project I need to clear out of my garage. Then I'll move it in there and do it right. I was thinking that if my bolt threads were damaged in the drilling. I might move up a bolt size to an m10 bolt and retap. The hole in the block should be 5/32. My friend who use to have his own shop recommended that I tap that hole and put a hex head bolt, with something to seal the threads.
 

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Drill bushing;

It's a hardened steel bushing, the inside diameter a prescribed size of a standard split-point good quality drill bit. The outside diameter should be the size of the portion of the block holes where the starter goes that are unthreaded. You push the drill bushing into the hole as far as it wants to go, assuming that the broken bolt does not come clear down to the bottom of the block, then drill into the bolt with a good quality split point drill, ONLY A LITTLE WAY, then switch out the drill for a reverse-twist drill that will catch on the edges of the hole and just run the broken bolt out. I only used a right-twist drill to make the hole because the left-twist ones I ordered were Chinese crap that would not drill anything. The bushing kept the hole in the middle.

You can buy drill bushings at industrial supply stores like MSC Industrial, or if you are not in a hurry, I can, I think, round up the bushing and the drill extension to help me get past the stuff that was in my way, and mail it to you, providing you are willing to keep the stuff around and mail it to the next guy who needs it. It's the only very low-risk way I know to do that job, and you can tell by now that the job IS risky any other way.....PM me if you want me to try and find the bushing and extension....Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey Guys,

I got the bolt almost drilled out. I'm thinking of moving up to 7/16 bolt size. It should work, but i'll have to drill out the starter housing a bit to make room for the larger bolt. I'm going to make my own plug using a bolt and cutting it. Threading it in with blue locktite. Then putting the starter bolt behind that. I'm hoping it takes care of the engine block hole. Here is a pic of the progress. :coolnana:
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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I would be leery changing bolt sizes. Then you don't have the stock knurling to hold them in position, you have a larger bolt that may not break, but would allow the ear on the block to break instead. I would probably look at a heli-coil.

What I have done to center, is start with a drill bit that is about the hole size, and just let it bite in. Then you should have a divot out in the center. A drill bushing will probably be straighter.
 
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Unless I disremember, you have to oversize the hole to use a heli-coil, too, and that'll also weaken the block. My biggest nightmare would be extracting ANOTHER bolt, this time with loc-tite on it, so I wouldn't do anything but extract and replace the existing bolts, with some sealer on the one that got mis-drilled, but that does not mean I am correct, it just means I'm cowardly when it comes to removing meat from places already known to be prone to breakage.....Joe
 

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Your, right, you have to remove meat to heli-coil, but then the bolt isn't over strength. If the threads are screwed, your gonna have to drill some out regardless.
I'd feel more comfortable removing a bolt with Loctite and heat than a some of the sealers. I've seen nightmares with sealers plugging stuff up rock hard.
 
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