Diesel Place banner

Bloverlander

4935 Views 93 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  SuperBuickGuy
I like Overlanding... which is what they used to call car camping when I was a kid. I've built all sorts, and I have a range of options when I go outdoors - from an enclosed hammock to a class A motorhome. Currently, I use a 94 Suburban and it's perfect. So a Blazer would be perfecter... right? actually, I came very close to buying the Chalet Blazer that keeps trying to touch the stratosphere with its asking (I thought $7500 was too much). But it wasn't perfect, the size and shape, I like, but it's not a diesel, it's not a pop top, and it's not coil sprung front end.

Funny thing, no one has built a Blazer with those specs - add to those specs, I'd really like to make my Class A redundant. I travel with me, wife and the dogs - and the occasional racecar.
So we're starting with some requirements:
1) A Blazer with half-removeable top (so I can take the camper off)
2) a diesel
3) one ton running gear
4) Manual (nice guy, always does what he's told
5) coil sprung front suspension... to the purists, it's on tons, go away. To everyone else, buckboards hurt my back and the Broncos do ride better...
6) must be able to tow 12,000 lbs and crest the hills around here at or near the speed limit while towing.
7) absolutely stone cold reliable.
8) and finally, I go to SEMA so occasionally the 'needs' list gets longer when I find out there's something I never knew existed by now cannot live another moment without

There is more - one of which you may find interesting. My wife's Jeep I converted to have cages so that she could cart her Search and Rescue dogs. One of the latest options is we added a 24v powered AC unit to it. It should work just fine for the camper I'm building.... alright... pictures.... I have a minor question... but first...

The Suburban.... there's a story behind the hood open, but for now, there it is... 94 6.5 250k miles, paid $300 for it. Put a motor in it (though I didn't have to, shades of this is in the Blazer story), updated to a HX35 turbo and have literally driven the wheels off it... it owes me nothing

what is this called.. foreshadowing.. the 'burb with the Blazer nosing in

the Blazer, 1986, 6.2 diesel, broken crank (ran when parked - which, sure, but knocked like a sob). Not rusty, fully loaded, and a diesel

someone will ask... so here it is... 1971 FJ40.... linked, tons, 350 chev, 5 speed

what I race 1976 Corvette, I built every stitch of it... BB 427, 5 speed (there might be a theme with that), C5 front suspension, 5th gen Camaro SS rear suspension... I race autox and Optima Challenge ultimate street car. I have plans to do the Silver State Challenge and may do the Wilwood Corvette Challenge (though that would require a newer Corvette)


Back to the Blazer... I bought a set of one ton axles, Dana 60 front (GM), 14 bolt van rear. 4.56 gears detroit locker in the rear (I've done this before, was a bad idea then - but, well, that's what it came with) and limited slip front. All the suspension parts are from Ballistic Fab and, if they ever arrive, from a Ford F350 van (springs). It's 10" of lift and I'm close to being done with the suspension... need to install spring pockets and a sway bar...
sharp eye'd viewers will notice the tires seem to have been on the FJ40... you're right, they were and they were WAAAYYYYY too hard of sidewall so it wouldn't flex...


I do suspensions, but I love the 6.5 and 6.2 diesels.... I've had a bunch, never had a manual one.
The motor
this is what it looked like tonight


it's a 99 H1 civilian 6.5 diesel with 34k miles on it (maybe)... ebay... it is a 506 block and it is a van block - which puts the turbo between the heads. I swapped to the updated heads because I wanted stronger but more importantly the pickup style for the turbo. It's a DB2 fuel pump but it's from the 92/93 6.5 turbo. I've had LOTS of these motors. I've been pulling from my stashof parts to assemble this... I have 4 turbo set ups from 6.5 motors I've parted or sold. I've also turbo charged 3 6.2s - this is getting to be long, but pictures will happen eventually.
I've put ARP studs for the heads and a fluiddamper on it. I have a new HX35 turbo.. because it's a 99 H1, it already has the better water pump
the goal of this motor 300-350 hp, 550 lbs torque and reliable. Sure, I could turn up the boost in anger and make quite a bit more power, but, all honesty, I don't need it or want to deal with a motor that melts down. 15 psi max - and yes, I understand I could turn it up a lot more... but I don't think I'll need it.

As for the rest, NV4500, NP208 (until I find a NP205). I hope I never have to tow with the short rear driveshaft and 208 - but the benefit is the 208 gives me time to find the right 205....

and thank you. both for posting up so I could use your knowledge to build it better and for listening.

questions?

my question is how to block the oil holes in the top... I'm sure google will help me eventually, but that's the minor question.
See less See more
7
  • Like
Reactions: 1
61 - 80 of 94 Posts
nope. pictures later, but the sock isn't terrible.
In thinking, the only other thing has got to be electrical.... but why under load? the only choice is run it until it doesn't go anymore.... bright side is this does reaffirm my choice to run a 92 pump on my H1 motor in the Blazer. I guess the only other possibility would be a faulty computer...
Time to take the tank out of the Suburban on the off chance the pickup is messed up or plugged up

first drain the tank

nope, sock isn't the problem... maybe the computer is gone... I dunno

it's not, but now is the optimal time to put the pickup in place for the diesel heater


not to say I didn't spend a bit of time getting things ready to test fit the winch bumper on the blazer
See less See more
6
  • Like
Reactions: 2
To finish... put the pickup in the tank for the diesel heater...

then assembled it and drove it out of the shop...

back to the Blazer
first problem, finally, solved. Needed the fittings for the fuel pump... apparently Dorman makes them. Thanks Dorman

while I was gluing the fitting to the tank, I figured I'd try this...


and also got the heat shielding so I can finish the turbo portion



so back to the fitting... it works... problem is getting the lines to fit. Okay, so there's a huge secret. I guess some people gave up on a 6.5 diesel install because of the fittings. I guess they'd never heard of -10 an fittings?


so I don't know if this is going to be the solution... I have a stand alone cooler as well... but it has its own challenges.
See less See more
6
  • Like
Reactions: 2
oil lines part 2
flare

use liquid steel as a shim

and it's now adapted.


electric fuel pump install - apparently another 'fix'

for some reason this ragged edge was under the hose

but with a trim and a flare - pump fits fine

and clamped
See less See more
7
  • Like
Reactions: 2
oil lines... sorted
had to take the bend out to make it fit

See less See more
2
  • Like
Reactions: 2
random stuff forward - remove the outer cover of the hvac box - so I can put heat shield in place

even got the idle solenoid connected

and time to get the bumper off the floor

the brackets for an 86 Blazer must have been for the 'other' one (or the idiot at the swap meet didn't know wtf he was talking about)
See less See more
4
  • Like
Reactions: 2
in other news, got the blocks

the problem... the blocks I was using aren't symetrical


and that, of course, puts the tire in a different spot in the fender (and worse, makes the truck crab)



in the rest of this, I'm going to add at least one leaf

at SEMA, I noticed a new engine stand coming from Harbor Fright. for less than $400 it's comparable to $800 stands... wish I had it when I was building the motor for this... ah well, I do enough motors that this will be well used
See less See more
6
  • Like
Reactions: 2
I'm kind of in the middle of a lot of things - waiting for parts, for one such as this


fun fact, the PO obviously had problems with the electrical system - thus added a bunch of ground cables (which isn't a 'bad' solution) however, he should have first check to be sure his connection to the internal regulator wasn't causing him an issue. Sure, I get it, most people overlook grounds (and we won't even go into the running argument I have with a major manufacturer about whether a frame is a sufficient ground - not saying who, but their opinion has not convinced me to run a ground cable to the motor from a rear battery)
tl;dr - start simple... check for corrosion on all the positive connections before spending your life adding 20 ground straps to a vehicle. I'll bet that the 'problem' was it wasn't charging well....
I needed to drill the hole larger for the heavy-duty alternator and I'm waiting for the new a/c pump, the right plug for the alternator and gaskets... and the list goes on... not just that but AutoX on Sunday so had to align the Corvette (which I do myself because I think it's faster then explaining to the local Firestone tech what I'm looking for and how to adjust it)...
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
got a bit more done today... spent most of it making my wife's new car into a dog box... but I did get me time
new a/c pump installed

finally machined the clutch fan housing to accept the new fan

yes, this is 'the right fan' for it.... uh... fixable

also started wiring the new alternator
See less See more
4
  • Like
Reactions: 2
my biggest fan

alternator wired and starter wired (what a pita)

and time to gold plate this pig... or at least the wires on this pig

did the same with the starter wires... pictures are just not possible
See less See more
4
  • Like
Reactions: 2
reconsidering my life choices... there's so many considerations doing this... it will fit, but wow what a pain.... and I love it.
of course, having to screw with heatshield doesn't make me happy

form and fit

but it's necessary


time to figure out the upper coolant tube

more bits

there are issues because that is where I planned on running the pressurized line for the turbo

it would be a bit annoying to have to remake the intake to a flat plate and round hole


oh but wait, there's more

what you can't see is the 2 1/2 hole that needs to be there for the turbo's exhaust


you have no idea the temptation to put the turbo where the muffler would reside... it would solve some problems. That said, that means there would be another 2 1/2 tube that would need to fit up through that nonexistent hole

I wish I had a muffler shop tube bender....
See less See more
9
  • Like
Reactions: 2
I thought I'd be continuing on with exhaust, however, the bits I need didn't arrive yesterday... not complaining, I have tons to do - but one of those changes from moving is going from that-day or next-day delivery to in-a-week-or-so delivery... so I let my ADD reign and
started working on fixing the core support

amazing it can take 2 hours to do this but I'm still setting up the shop - so to cut these two pieces, I had to: clear the shear, find an extension cord, get the dies in the brake, find an extension cord for that, set the brake, get the metal out, clear a table to put the metal on, fix my wife's dog kennel, go to the store to get my wife a jump box, finish the brakes on the motorhome, then complete these pieces..


I did 'waste' a bit of time staring at these trying to determine how I was going to mount an idler pulley under the alternator..

and then ADD again with the front bumper

so how does one 'level' the front bumper? by checking the angle of the door sills, of course. Of course, they're also a 1/3rd of a degree different from side to side...


anyway, now's that for a got-nothing-done?
See less See more
6
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Cool build. Seen some of your other builds around the web ( also own a c3). So are you thinking a possible custom camper build on the back? On my 6.2 swapped 77 k10 step side i am running a contractor box and doing that yp. Nothing to crazy but its got the manual swap and 1 tons ….

for the isssues ob the pedal swap if you want bolt in you need a hydro pedal out of a truck with hydroboost brakes. For anyone looking thats an 1986 and up diesel or 1 ton square body. I like your fabbed aetup.

looks like a warn bumper up front bet they have lots still kickibg around the PNW. The side wings are super weak but the center is pretty good. What winch are you planning? Mines got an 8274 and it works good for what it is although a little light for a fullsize.

on the 24 volt ac you mentioned you could use parts from a CUCV to make that happen. I have the firewall resister(24-12volt) and 24 volt starter in our barn. The detroit diesels start super fast with them.
See less See more
Spent the morning retrieving these jewels.... as I said before, the NP208 was likely just a placeholder...

boost on a HX35 turbo is limited to 30psi... which is about double what can be reliably used in a 6.5 TD - on the 'burb, I simply used a boost valve, this time, I'll do it right


fix things while you're thinking about them.... the PO didn't fix this... but added 50 more grounds?


I got so tired of catching on the rusty bits that I figured I'd stop and fix that too



got the exhaust bands so I can finally start on the exhaust

trial on front bumper... it is going back at least 5"


See less See more
12
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Cool build. Seen some of your other builds around the web ( also own a c3). So are you thinking a possible custom camper build on the back? On my 6.2 swapped 77 k10 step side i am running a contractor box and doing that yp. Nothing to crazy but its got the manual swap and 1 tons ….

for the isssues ob the pedal swap if you want bolt in you need a hydro pedal out of a truck with hydroboost brakes. For anyone looking thats an 1986 and up diesel or 1 ton square body. I like your fabbed aetup.

looks like a warn bumper up front bet they have lots still kickibg around the PNW. The side wings are super weak but the center is pretty good. What winch are you planning? Mines got an 8274 and it works good for what it is although a little light for a fullsize.

on the 24 volt ac you mentioned you could use parts from a CUCV to make that happen. I have the firewall resister(24-12volt) and 24 volt starter in our barn. The detroit diesels start super fast with them.
poptop camper fully self contained - though the shower will likely be outside. My goal here is I can take off the camper and have a Blazer or slide the camper in and be full lux-overlanding.... and that requires AC

I'd guess you're right about the Warn bumper - but it's been fiddled with over the years and it's basically just a start for me. when done it will be a lot closer to the grill and have a a deer catcher above it.

As for a winch - something in the 12k capacity range.

Electrical is an evolving deal. At this point, I've been watching videos on making a welder-alternator... and I have a bunch of the parts to make a pretty killer one - and given my current issue of needing an idler, I may make that as a York compressor like I've got on my FJ40.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
time to attach it for real

a bit low

moved it up then used the bolts that hold the tow hooks to hold the bumper in place

and done

and you can see why - now I have a platform to work from
See less See more
4
  • Like
Reactions: 2
not a lot to photograph - basically just tightening bolts... but I got new part

and bought hoses to connect the upper radiator hose

brand new fluid... I was right, it was a placeholder

and time to start routing the brake cables

soon, remove these and remount them
See less See more
5
  • Like
Reactions: 2
It was a fun weekend with my wife - but the Blazer had to languish, alone, in the shop.
That said, parts did arrive
the bearing to adapt my t-case to the NV4500

I may use the spare case since it's mostly apart

where the bearing goes

brake lines


all was not happy because the rears are a 7/16 banjo fitting rather then 3/8 (like the fronts).... so reordered those and these will go into the brake line bucket
front shocks arrived and they're 'just right' for length

See less See more
7
  • Like
Reactions: 2
More parts arrived today... rear shocks


also the dies for putting pipe beads


directions were non-existent but figured it out

and a bead

then paint the cross over coolant tube

figured I'd use the later NP205 (one is a 77, the other is a 78 - the 78 has 30 spline outputs

the onto taking the NP205 apart so I can get the bearing bored



for reasons below, I didn't have the patience to knock this roll pin out

then an unintended visitor... quails are cute but utterly stupid. Of course, Luigi was in heaven

fun fact, the quail will sit on the fan until it gets flinged off...

and the other visitor - waiting for its tow to get fixed... again. lord I hate Jeeps
See less See more
13
  • Like
Reactions: 2
so today's distraction - make a shelf for the portable ac for my wife's truck

repurposed a dog dish stand... attached it the seatbelt anchors

and created a second shelf for the 2nd 24v battery

installed


in Blazer stuff, the np205 is fully apart
See less See more
5
  • Like
Reactions: 2
61 - 80 of 94 Posts
Top