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Is there significant (seat of the pants) power to be gained by sticking some big pipes behind my 6.2? Do any companies make pre-fab kits for a K30 longbed that a monkey could bolt on? :)

My CUCV has scrawny pipes at present.
 

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Yeah, bigger pipes will give you a noticeable increase in power (to a point, of course). For the maximum gain you can also turn up your injection pump a little bit as well.

I don't know if there is a company that makes kits to put bigger pipes on, but you should be able to find a muffler shop that will help you out... :)
 

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Remember, dump before the rear axels.
On paper the 6.2 should only beable to make about 210hp with no turbo, diesel fuel only and all the mods you can think of not includeing water/meth injection.
I figure that is about the limit that the pistons will melt if held to that power out put for an extended amout of time. I figured that is about how much power it would make running a 16:1 A/F.
Things that reduce EGT's
Cold air.
Wide open exhaust.
More air.
Water/methanol injection.
How easy is it easy to melt pistons in an IDI engine?
I need an EGT gauge!
 

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oil pan 4;1535426; said:
Remember, dump before the rear axels.
Im thinking thats going to be some loud horse power if it dumps before the axel. Come summer I want to bring from the manafolds to the bumper some 2.5 .But havent found a muffler I would use yet . I have factory dual that I want to toss.
Ive seen a lot about dynomax . But the system does not include muflers. Or tell you the size or length you will need to pick up.
I used google search and typed in {exhaust 6.2 dual } it seems to be the last on the parts list keep looking to the bottom for that 6.2 .
 

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A couple of 3" pipes will work nice for you. A cross pipe Y is also recomended by others. Only down size is that it is a waste if you later decide to add a turbo. Turbo has single exhaust, so your duall exhaust is a total loss, your single exhaust probably needing to be a 4" tube.
 

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The exhaust manifold exits are less than 2 1/4" so 3" pipes won't do much more than look good.

Straight shot back to the mufflers, one smooth gradual curve up and over the rear axle, then into a suitable low-pressure area behind the rear tires is very workable for 2 1/2" duals.

That will help 'pull' the exhaust outta the system - install a crossover between the pipes just behind the transmission support to prevent droning.

Dumping the pipes in front the rear axle will really help rustproof everything from there back, as all that soot begins to coat everything between the ground and the underside of the bed.
And that high-pressure area where road-draft hits the rear bumper will make sure that soot recirculates enough to create an interesting visual effect, as well as forming a centrifugal filter, hurling those heavy soot particles onto everything back there.

Two stacked air filters in a reworked housing and ducted to that hole in the passenger-side radiator bulkhead will ensure plenty of fresh, cool, higher pressure air rammed into the intake at any forward vehicle motion.

A little higher pressure at the front, a little lower pressure at the rear and ya got mild ram-air - remembering that you're only flowing around 350cfm at 3500rpm, every little bit helps.
 
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