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I’m doing head gaskets on my Lbz. 12 hr day yesterday & I got the pass head off. Back at it today to get the driver side out. Y pipe crud was expected. I didn’t block the egr until 80k Miles or so.

What do you recommend to clean the Y & Y horn pipe with?

Do y’all know of any any coating I put on the frame to match the original waxy undercoating to match the GM finish?

Does anyone sell the firewall insulation pad? I had a rodent pick at mine a bit. It’s not horrible but I’m there and it wouldn’t be a bad idea if I can find one.

Thanks in advance!!
 

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I have heard that Easy Off oven cleaner works well but I have not tried it personally.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
After cleaning it a little I decided to take it down to my powder coater and have him clean and do a satin black powder coat on all the top end aluminum. I'll post some pics when I'm done.

Here's a pic of my PPE manifolds in Bronze titanium. As they heat cycle they should match the PPE un and down pipes.
 

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Well, for what it worth, when I was in the CAD Amed Forces, we used to clean our carboned up parts (gas powered semi auto FN's), by immersing them in Coca Cola.....and by morning they were sparkling clean. I would expect a Y bridge to take a little longer with a change or two of Coke....

Nice PPE "headers"...got a pair of those on my truck as well..installed duing HG job.

cheers,
theo
 

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The shop that did mine said they steam cleaned the crud out. I really regret not at least replacing the driver side manifold.
 

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I cleaned Mine and the EGR cooler in my parts washer Biggest problem is it destroyed the solvent to the point I needed to filter it for 5 days. I used a spoon to get most of the crud out. Water base solvent works also.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Update!

Truck has been back together since mid December. It took a while chasing down stupid issues like the oil cooler gaskets, new idler pulleys & alternator. Still have a little drip off the bell housing. Next I’m gonna replace the power steering pump. It was howling after it got hot towing to Prescott this weekend.

The truck is a beast now with the improvements. I towed our genesis 34GS 5th wheel toyhauler up to Prescott from Scottsdale and chugged the grade in 4th gear at 2200 rpm no problem. The ppe full exhaust made a big difference in egt’s.

Next up is to have Mike L finish the trans & do a tune with switch.
 

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I hear ya on the replacing parts and items....that started for me around the 275,000 mile mark...PS Pump, Steering Box, finally put in OEM Bearing hubs (I'll Never Ever go with AM sh*t again for ANY parts for that matter.), Side door Panel, Drivers door hinges.bushing kit...a whole bunch of fuel hoses RnR the Turbo, and now about to do a coolant hose in the Engine bay, and a Pinion Seal in the rear diff....plus install a good used set of running nerf bars...last set rotted out on the drivers side. Shocks, Sterring stabilizer, ball joints... I am VERY gratefull I have a great mechanic and one that works for a GM Dealership as a Diesel Tech.

But all in all, it still drives phenomenally, still looks good, and at $80 to 105 Thousand Dollars for a new one.....??

yea, not happening.

Cheers,
Theo
 

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Oven cleaner, and a lot of it. Used four can to do my y bridge and all parts in contact with the erg. Also, you can use map gas to carbonized the crap in there. Then, scrap it out. Either way it is a pain. Other reason to delete the EGR.
 

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sonic cleaner...
 

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I understand the OP is far done with this, but others searching may be wondering....

I used gasoline mixed with diesel fuel to clean the tubing.

https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/140-duramax-third-generation-2006-2007-5-lbz-lly/723530-without-pcv-egr-even-problem-5.html#post8100986

A buddy with the same truck just so happened to have gallons of it laying around when he mistakenly started to put gas in his LBZ. It came out spotless just using a soft parts brush. I then took it to the car wash wand and sprayed it off with hot water so there'd be no gas remnants.
 
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