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help me find my pmd?!

Hi New To The Site So Bear With Me Im Not A Mecanic Im A Locksmith With A 97 Chev G Seies Van With The 6.5 And It Started The Stalling Etc I Have Had It For 3 Yrs Finally Paid It Off Was Told By A Mecanic That The Pmd Is My Problem But He Wanted Alot Of Money To Put In A New One In The Stock Location I Read Here That Remote Mounting Is The Answer> Great Bought A New Pmd And Cooler And 6 " Cable Problem Is I Dant Find The Old One To Unplug It And Plug In The New Cable Sorry Im A Locksmith Not A Mecanic Any Help/ Pictures Would Be Great Thanx
 

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Hi New To The Site So Bear With Me Im Not A Mecanic Im A Locksmith With A 97 Chev G Seies Van With The 6.5 And It Started The Stalling Etc I Have Had It For 3 Yrs Finally Paid It Off Was Told By A Mecanic That The Pmd Is My Problem But He Wanted Alot Of Money To Put In A New One In The Stock Location I Read Here That Remote Mounting Is The Answer> Great Bought A New Pmd And Cooler And 6 " Cable Problem Is I Dant Find The Old One To Unplug It And Plug In The New Cable Sorry Im A Locksmith Not A Mecanic Any Help/ Pictures Would Be Great Thanx
Post #2 and #3 and a little bit of improvisation.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267979

By the way, I am not a mechanic nor a locksmith. Everything about this car, I learn it from here by reading a LOT.

As a locksmith, you probably have some small tools to fish the cable from underneath the intake manifold.

This is assuming the van 6.5 is the same as the truck or suburban.
 

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most of the male to female connectors used for electrical in vehicles have a rubber gasket that when connects to there female counterpart, creates a near perfect water tight connection. plus if you are driving in the rain(which im sure alot of us do), then the PMD would be screwed there to. not submurgerin water but you get the idea. you'll be fine man. get ahold of heaths PMD isolator, put it on the front bumper, and IF it does actually have a problem-7 year waranty to back you up
 

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Go to faqs and make your own....Save the Coin for exhaust.
Unless money is of no concern, then yes...Heath and the warranty would be the way.
 

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My truck is a 94 2500 but the IP is mounted in the same location. The upper plenum is going to be different though. Here is a pic of the PMD mounted on the IP.
 

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I am going to have to replace mine soon and was wondering why no one seems to be putting them inside the cab? It seems like the cable run would be shorter and it would be protected from the elements. It does get pretty hot inside in the summer while parked with the windows up, but it doesn't seem to cook anything else.


I realize you sent this some time ago but I am thinking the same and will be mounting mine in the cab. Will let you know how it goes. Have you had any feebback on this?
Thanks,
Dan
 

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I realize you sent this some time ago but I am thinking the same and will be mounting mine in the cab. Will let you know how it goes. Have you had any feebback on this?
Thanks,
Dan

Not a lot of airflow in the cab and how hot does the inside get on a summer day with the windows rolled up?
 

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That thought came to my mind also however,

In TX, the inside of the cab can be hot also, unless you put it right underneath the AC vent. Of course, not everybody lives in TX.
 

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I live in Florida. The cab is hot only when not moving, so is under the hood or the front bumper. At least I can see the temp inside and touch the pmd for heat. I think it is the best way. I am putting it there. Saw Edam Co. diagram, looks easy and again your always checking it when in cab, when out, it cannot be hotter than under hood. Also, putting a computer fan on it, again, can always check fan for movement. Cannot when in bumper.
 

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How's this? :) Did that tonight just to get home. Had to swap two back and forth....Ordering PMD with heat sink! SSDiesel Supply or Heath? Figure I'll put in front bumper. Needs to be WATERPROOF. Skid plate?
 

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Doesn't matter where from. Warranty & service does. I bought from my local store (Dorman) with a lifetime warranty:HiHi: Theyre all the same Flight system black or the grey Stanadyne are the only 2. I have both.
 

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Romeo,

I'd stay away from the skid plate. Too easy to get knocked around when mounted that low. Mine is inside the front bumper in the center (between the bumper openings). Been there for years with no issues. Yes, it's from Heath, with the big heat sink attached.

Jake
 

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If it's mounted to the skid plate, does it also have a heat sink, or are you using the skid plate as a heat sink?

I've ordered a new PMD, resistors, extension cable, and heat sink, but currently, would like to get it mounted to something that can act as a heat sink until it arrives. I want to DRIVE! Would firewall, yes, I know, it's in the engine compartment, act as a temporary, matter of days, heat sink?


have the heath unit mounted on the front skid plate on my 94....took it to colorado and crossed a few creeks/streams and no problems a year after the trip. the unit is sealed anyways so no worry
 

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If it's mounted to the skid plate, does it also have a heat sink, or are you using the skid plate as a heat sink?
Needs a separate heat sink. The heat sink can be bolted to the top of skid plate, facing the engine.

I've ordered a new PMD, resistors, extension cable, and heat sink, but currently, would like to get it mounted to something that can act as a heat sink until it arrives. I want to DRIVE! Would firewall, yes, I know, it's in the engine compartment, act as a temporary, matter of days, heat sink?
Dont! Without a proper heat sink you'll burn up the PMD in a very short time.
 

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Thanks, thanks. It will be here Monday. :(
 

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Heatsink needs to be Aluminum.
Skid plate is steel not Aluminum!!!
You don't want Aluminum Skid plate for obvious reason.
 

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About to give up. Replaced IP, replaced fuel filter, replaced crank position sensor, replaced PMD (with aluminum heat sink out of engine compartment), and it still, after a few minutes, stutters and wants to just give up at 2000 RPM. Seems fuel starved. Bleed fuel filter and fuel "bubbles" out, but doesn't stream. Replaced lift pump but that seemed to do no good, so put old one back on. ARGH!
 

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2 cents worth. Place in hole in bumper. Place with plug in down position. Tilt slightly with the PMD "under" the cooler. Zip tie accordingly.

Plug down allows water to exit PMD. Plug down allows easier plug and play option if it fails on road. Top cover of PMD is not sealed so tilted back allows water drain from PMD cavity. Paint thin flat black for heat dissipation and hiding valuable part. Cooler does need air to function properly. Avoid extended idling.

Check glove box for suitable replacement.

For you new guys I made a dual PMD conversion. You could actually switch from one PMD to the other on the fly just like the NASCAR guys do with their ignition boxes. Didn't throw any codes and worked great for troubleshooting bad PMD's. Now what did I do with them plans,,hmmm.
 

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Starting to sound like a tank sock problem
 

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(Yes, I know some of these are VERY old.)
...why no one seems to be putting them inside the cab? It seems like the cable run would be shorter and it would be protected from the elements.
It doesn't solve the problem since the cab can get very hot; the wiring would be MUCH longer; and there are many better locations.
Would it not cool better if the fins ran vertically?
If your heat sink is so close to not working that its orientation can damage the PMD, the sink isn't big enough. And you shouldn't rely on convection for airflow - mount it where the ENGINE draws air across it (either in the intak stream, or in front of the fan).
If it's mounted to the skid plate, does it also have a heat sink, or are you using the skid plate as a heat sink?
A heat sink needs 3 things to be effective:
1) either high thermal mass (so it can absorb pulses of heat) or high surface area (so it can dissipate long-duration heat) or both. (Forced airflow is a way to decrease thermal mass & surface area.)
2) high thermal conductivity (like Cu & Al)
3) a highly-conductive bond to the heat source (usually a machined flat surface with something between to increase the contact surface area)

The skidplate has NONE of those. A painted body panel (like the firewall) doesn't, either.
 
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