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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
remote mount pmd question

From my understanding it seems like you could just get the extended wiring harness and move the pmd out of the engine bay without spending an arm and a leg on these kits. But if thats the case then why do so many keep it inside the engine bay?

Can you just remove the psd from its location, use the extended wiring harness and mount the pmd inside your cab?
 

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Do a search as I think someone did exactly that.
 

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The FSD\PMD does not run hot on the Inj Pump, engine running.

What causes failure is repeated heat soak - the abrupt rise in underhood heat when the engine is turned off.

That, combined with summer heat and air conditioner system heat, is the killer.

Ain't no lil fan gonna solve that - it just blows super-hot air across the heat-sink.

Suggestion - better location would be inside the fender-duct, the cool air path to the intake air filter box

'Nother suggestion - in front of the radiator bulkhead, behind the grille

'Nother suggestion - ANYPLACE OUTSIDE THE ENGINE BAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:cool:
 

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Mine is in the cab, below the steering column and cooled
by AC air in the summer.

You can build a cable, need to cut the connector off off
a bad FSD/PMD and get a Male from an old cable
( new PMD's come with a short male cable )

If there is a standyne dealer close, stop and ask,
they will probably give you lots of bad PMD's and old
cables,

Note, cutting the connector off the PMD is tricky,
hard to leave enough of the pin to solder too.
If you are not reall good at cable fab, may be more
problems than it's worth,

For most, a quality cable from Kennedy or Heath is
a better option.
 

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For most, a quality cable from Kennedy or Heath is
a better option.
I hate to say it, because I really like the rest of the kit, but Health's cable is not terribly well-engineered. It relies on using shrink-wrap and a small cable tie to keep everything together. It's kind of hokey. Kennedy's harness is FAR superior. He engineered a molded, waterproof connector. John spent some time engineering it. That said, I do like the idea of getting things completely OUT of the engine bay.

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 

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Bill gives 7-year full replacement warranty with his setup - most folks do not associate that scenario with the concept of 'rip-off'..............
 

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those kits seem like a ripoff to me..
In what way?

First off, it is a widely accepted fact (by everyone except GM and stanadyne) that the FSD is better off away from the engine.

Now, you could make a cooler/relocation kit yourself. I have done so and for my $11, I am happy with the results.

But if you have neither the time/experinece/guts to make it yourself the kits are a godsend and worth every penny. This is not one of those Vortex fin deals that make promises with little to back them up. These kits deliver.

BTW, to answer your original question.
Can you just remove the psd from its location, use the extended wiring harness and mount the pmd inside your cab?
NO! You would still need a heat sink of some sort. The FSD will not live long in any ambient conditions without a suitably sized heat sink attached.


Tim
 

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I hate to say it, because I really like the rest of the kit, but Health's cable is not terribly well-engineered. It relies on using shrink-wrap and a small cable tie to keep everything together. It's kind of hokey. Kennedy's harness is FAR superior. He engineered a molded, waterproof connector. John spent some time engineering it. That said, I do like the idea of getting things completely OUT of the engine bay.

Sincerely,

Rob :)
I have both Heath & Kennedy harnesses, Kennedy's is a better plug on both ends, but too short for out of engine bay mounting of the driver, my Heath plugs into my Kennedy harness, the Heath harness is only shrink wrapped on one end, where it plugs to the engine harness or Kennedy harness in my case, with a weatherpak connector on the driver same as Kennedy. Mine has been running without shrink wrap even for almost 2 years now to allow me to to some R&D on the signals. FWIW nothing wrong with shrink wrap, plenty of that used in commercial applications
 

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those kits seem like a ripoff to me..
When your truck dies every 2 miles when you 500 miles from home I bet you would change your mind. I take my truck to some very remote places in the West and Southwest. Sometimes 20 miles from the nearest occupied building, I want a proven system.
 

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In what way?

First off, it is a widely accepted fact (by everyone except GM and stanadyne) that the FSD is better off away from the engine.

Don;t say 'everyone', I can think of two people on this site that believe it belongs on the pump. I may chage my mind when I am done with my liquid cooled PMD project, but for now mine is on the pump,and pushing 153K without failure.
 

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I have both Heath & Kennedy harnesses, Kennedy's is a better plug on both ends, but too short for out of engine bay mounting of the driver, my Heath plugs into my Kennedy harness, the Heath harness is only shrink wrapped on one end, where it plugs to the engine harness or Kennedy harness in my case, with a weatherpak connector on the driver same as Kennedy. Mine has been running without shrink wrap even for almost 2 years now to allow me to to some R&D on the signals. FWIW nothing wrong with shrink wrap, plenty of that used in commercial applications

I do have a 72" unit...


I've had excellent results on the FSD cooler and still mounted underhood. It really steams me though when people think that they can just mount the PMD on a painted surface or free air. I've actually considered moving the price of my extension up and creating a discount back to the original price for online orders so that I don't have to get worked up on the phone...:rant:
 

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John if you will recall from previous posts I ran yours as recommended with all your instructions, and had multiple fails there, maybe I got a lemon of a driver, I don't know, but so far knock on wood the Heath driver no fails yet, when & if I have a fail I'll post that info as well.

I'm glad to hear you now have a 62" harness my opinion from my tests is that your mount out of the bay is a better solution than in the bay, that said what sold me on the Heath unit was the warranty, I have no beef with you or what you sold me it was better than GM original, facts are though; the underhood location didn't work for me. The DSG unit you sold me is my back up just in case the Heath unit leaves me stranded.

I've never advocated folks mount it in air or just any painted surface mount, a correctly sized sink is a must IMO
 

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Discussion Starter #15
In what way?

First off, it is a widely accepted fact (by everyone except GM and stanadyne) that the FSD is better off away from the engine.

Now, you could make a cooler/relocation kit yourself. I have done so and for my $11, I am happy with the results.

But if you have neither the time/experinece/guts to make it yourself the kits are a godsend and worth every penny. This is not one of those Vortex fin deals that make promises with little to back them up. These kits deliver.

BTW, to answer your original question.
NO! You would still need a heat sink of some sort. The FSD will not live long in any ambient conditions without a suitably sized heat sink attached.


Tim

I'm saying the kit seems like a "ripoff"(a way for companys to make money by selling you something that you could do yourself in very little time and money) for the following reasons.

1. you can get a heat sink from a computer repair place for nothing.

2. you can extend the wiring harness yourself very easily.

3. they cost around $400

4. you could buy a used but tested psd off of ebay with a 30 day warranty for next to nothing which i would rather do then spend 300 on a brand new one. even if I have to send it back and get another

5. look at what Pa1dFor did http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68237

It makes more sense to me to do it yourself for next to nothing that you may or may not have to replace for next to nothing then spend a ton of money on something with a warranty but thats just my .2 cents
 

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Ripoff is a pretty strong assertion here, you are forgetting non-recovered R&D costs and raw manufacturing costs, it's always easier to reverse engineer anothers work and then claim on savings.

So I stand in strong opposition to your statement of the kit being a ripoff.

Yes you can "build your own cheaper" not everyone can, capitalism is what it is, price is what the traffic will bear, I have no problem with a vendor charging what they believe to be what they are entitled to recover for their time, and non recoverable R&D.

I will agree with you if the product does not arrive as presented, or causes harm after installing it that it may be a ripoff. But labeling it ripoff on price alone isn't fair as all facts aren't represented. Both the Kennedy & Heath kits are quality products, I own & use both of their products, they are plug and play products, if you have your own ideas good on ya, but please refrain from attacking vendors that pay for this site that allow you to have a forum to share ideas.

As for the warranty it's a matter of risk abatement, with problems of drivers do I risk buying a new one again or defer ther cost today at todays cost, I have zero faith in a used driver, so I will never install a used one, so with that mindset I'm looking at buying new at tomorrows cost & availability, that is why I finally went the Heath option. Build your own with a used you assume the risk it will go again, used driver even remote mounted in my opinion it a matter of when it will fail as opposed to if it will fail.

all data thus far collected/reprted at this & other sites has been with a new or used driver mounted under engine on IP or cooler, we have not seen much data on remote mounts & "home grown" mounts to say conclusively that is a viable fix, yours is working, but how long have you been configured that way, ever had to retorque the screws to recover is also another piece of info missing.

I'm not chastising you, just saying all facts & data aren't in to say a product is a ripoff
 

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95 Tahoe,

OK: drive to computer repair place, drive to standyne/gm
for PMD, and drive to other places to acquire misc items.
And maybe a soldering iron, solder, and wire
Than several attempts are constructing a harness.
Than it does not work ???? my faulty work , bad pmd from
factory( or EBAY?), or is the IP the problem, ??????

My point being, not all have the talent nor the time to
construct a quality harness/heatsink .

When ever I address the construction of a home made
harness/heatsink, I specify that , for most , a purchase
of a Kennedy or Heath may be a more viable option.
Besides, They invested in the R&D, an in Kennedy's case
invested in an adapter plug.

Also I view your coments ( seems like a rip off )as Opinion, Which does not really serve any constructive purpose,
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok i'll retract my earlier comments of these kits being ripoff's

however i think all of you have to agree that it would take very little mechanical/electrical technical know-how to make one yourself...how hard is it to use a pair of wire crimpers and some butt connectors

I think these kits would be great for someone who didn't want to take the time or effort to do it themselves for a fraction of the cost but hey If you have money to burn and little spare time go for it sorry if I offended anyone
 

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Discussion Starter #19
95 Tahoe,

OK: drive to computer repair place, drive to standyne/gm
for PMD, and drive to other places to acquire misc items.
And maybe a soldering iron, solder, and wire
Than several attempts are constructing a harness.
Than it does not work ???? my faulty work , bad pmd from
factory( or EBAY?), or is the IP the problem, ??????

My point being, not all have the talent nor the time to
construct a quality harness/heatsink .

When ever I address the construction of a home made
harness/heatsink, I specify that , for most , a purchase
of a Kennedy or Heath may be a more viable option.
Besides, They invested in the R&D, an in Kennedy's case
invested in an adapter plug.

Also I view your coments ( seems like a rip off )as Opinion, Which does not really serve any constructive purpose,
I believe the majority of posts here are opinions...

as far as serving a "constructive purporse" if my statements concerning this matter were to make a person consider doing it themselves and save lots of money I think that serves a very constructive purpose
 

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It makes more sense to me to do it yourself for next to nothing that you may or may not have to replace for next to nothing then spend a ton of money on something with a warranty but thats just my .2 cents
Keep in mind, the bulk of the cost of these PMD relocation kits is for a new PMD itself. A new PMD costs $250-300 by itself. So now you're only talking about $100-150 more for the relocation kit.

Could I make my own relocation kit for less? Probably. Is it worth my time? No.

When I did the math, I may save $50 to $70 with buying my own new PMD and creating my own relocation kit. It would likely take me hours, and wouldn't be as good as the kit I bought, and wouldn't have any warranty.

The Heath kit I bought took me 45 minutes to install, and came with a nice warranty. Well worth the $50 to $70 to me. They created a good kit, and they deserve a profit from it.
 
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