I remember getting one done on my 97 6.5TD. Same time they replaced the fuel driver. Made a huge difference but that doesn't mean you'll have the same experience. Depends on what the flash does.Edited by: hoot
What model truck do you have, if it is a 1500 series L56/EGR engine you would be just as well served by getting a boneyard 99+ year model L65 PCM that has the higher fuel curve 76mm vs 63 in it. I tried a BD reflash and it did not work had to send it back, problems with the theft deterrent learn sequence. Tested another flashed PCM from another vendor(BTW) really only one outfit that does the reflash Z-Industries, everybody markets their reflash.
RATDOC tried the same PCM after I finshed with it; our joint consensus that for the money there was not much gain over a late model L65 PCM program. I've been running my 1500 with a 99 L65 PCM from a 3/4t van for almost 2 years, some tricks to make it run right it's not a simple plug & play drop me a note if you might be interested.
IMHO If you are a 2500 or 3500 series truck don't bother, put your $600+ core charge toward gages/exhaust, air filtration, boost control, and then IC these trucks are choked up from the get go from GM, for these truck to make safe power they need to be able to breathe, plus opening them up allows them to run vcooler so you can take advantage of any mods done later. I would recommend going to Banks web site some good info there on how to build a truck for power without overdoing it. www.bankspower.com
like TURBINEDOC said, I did try one and found that
while it DID make a top end difference, the lower and mid
ranges were pretty much the same. My truck('99 burb)
already had plenty of stuff done to it to enhance the entire
rpm range, and maybe that's why I wasn't too impressed
with the re-flash. I'd recommend trying to find a used one
so that you won't have to lay out $500 smackers for
doing yours, plus you'll have a back-up computer if needed.
As far as I'm concerned, the re-flash is for
fun only and doesn't make a huge difference in the "normal"
rpm ranges(unless you drive with a heavy foot).
I also noticed that my tranny shifted weird
while using the re-flash, swapping the computers back and
forth would cause the shifting problem to come and go.
Also worth noting is that the lackluster performance of
the computer Tim and I tried MIGHT have been just a problem
with that one computer.....who knows, maybe yours will run
like a scalded dog.
Tom, How much diff in the top end? My truck
is great until it hits 27-2800 rpm then it
loses steam quick. I would rather it shift
at 2800rpm than the 3300 it shifts at now
because of this.
I have the 4 inch exhaust, amsoil filter,
3in down pipe, no cat, boost control,
egt guage and boost guage. I want an
intercooler but my plow frame mounts where
the aftermarket ones mount so no go, plus
I want one in the grill where they belong.
As far as the comp reflash, Van Aken is the
only company doing is as of now so I may try it
but now am doubtful of it's gains.
top end is definately better, BUT, I had an intercooler
on my truck. You WON'T get the same results without one. What WILL
happen with your truck is the computer will add more fuel, the
EGT's will climb, and the post turbo inlet air temperature will
get to be way too high. At that point, the computer pulls back
on the fuel and your truck runs no better than a stock one.
This all happens VERY quickly(seconds) and any attempt at
trying to defeat this safeguard(bypassing the IAT sensor)
WILL result in a severly damaged engine.......get an intercooler!!
As far as reflashes go....it was/is Z Industries who does
ALL the reflashes for companies such as BD performance. Things
might have changed since I looked into this(2 years ago),
but I doubt it. Feel free to ask if you have any more 6.5 questions,
or just shoot me an e:mail(with 6.5 in the heading) if ya want.
P/S-this difference between standard reflashes and competition
versions is about 5mm's of fuel.......75VS80......any company
that claims more is full of it......a DS4 pump can only push
around 80mm of fuel(stock). DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT THE
COMPETITION VERSION WITHOUT AN INTERCOOLER!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I can not comment on the effects of each advancement I have done on my 97 2500 Sub because I don't have access to a dyno. I can say I noticed an increase in power after installing the computer, at BD, on my way to Alaska. On a later trip through Abbotsford my truck did dynoed 192 rear wheel hp with 105,000 miles while equiped with BD computer, 3 in exhaust, intercool and the pump turned up. Other 96 and 97 trucks at that test averaged 165hp.
I reread your post this moprning and was curious on how you are making out with your quest for power. Are you running with a boost controller, that would help out with the rpm range you are talking about GMs program cuts back boost just about the time you need it, boost control is good but you really need a gage setup EGT & Boost to set up safetly; overboost 10psi sustained in non intercooled is a bad thing, also getting more boost via control means closing the wastegate which means higher EGT over 1000 F sustained post turbo also another bad thing.
Can you update your signature as to what mods you have, some consider it bragging, for me it's more info to know where you are so better advise can be given. You listed as a 98 GMC is that a K or C series 1500,2500, 3500 , have you done any flow improvements to intake/exhaust that kind of info etc. to your current set up.
The other thing if you see in a sig what somebody else has done and you think you might want to try it you can ask the other person how it benefitted them, instead of what you read in sales brochure
I will add to the sig.
K2500 HD ex-cab short bed with 4.10 gears
As of now my truck has a BD 4in exhaust, boost and EGT
guage's, Amsoil filter, injectors, and a boost controll.
I was running a PS2000 but removed it to sell. Still have
it and will put it back on. I also have Bill Heath's boost
controll just not installed yet. I will this week though.
He also has a hand held programer coming out the end of
this year that I will buy.
I will say that none of the mods I installed made a huge
difference in power. My truck has always run strong 12lbs
of boost stock and runs very well. I need to be
intercooled before the computer program I think. I need to
relocate the oil and trans coolers to under the bed of the
truck for room 1st. I plan on keeping my truck forever
and may end up with a Cummins 12 Valve under the hood so the
intercooler will be needed no matter what.
If I remember correctly what is happening isn't boost cutback but maybe fuel cutback from high IAT I'll have to hit my manual again to confirm, I ran without IC for a year with the higher HP L65 PCM no cut backs as you describe, but I limited my boost to 10 sustained because of warnings too much too soon and engine won't last. Do you have access to a scan tool tech 2 or Snap On MT2500 you may have a bad IAT sensor or one starting to go.
As for more power I don't think that you will get any real seat of the pants power gain, until you go into the engine and drop compression and larger turbo to take advantage of lower compression. What the mods do though is allow you to make better use of what GM put in there safely, I'd say from my experience these are mostly longevity improvements not real power gainers, I've done just about all the bolt on one can do some more in the works timing gears and maybe injectors, once extended warranty is out I'll maybe do a bit more.
when you do go with the IC maybe this will help some
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