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Discussion Starter #1
So with the price of oil in the dumpster and all the pandemic stuff, I have not ran my vehicle for quite a while. Went to open the door with the clicker and nothing..... oh crap, well keys are inside, oh double crap. hoping I can get onstar to open it or the remote app on my phone but don't have high hopes cause the electronics that run the locks would not work.

So question 1, how to get in. I do have a slim jim, but zero knowledge on interior of the door and all that crap, any hints there would be great. I have seen locksmiths use tools to wedge the door open to hit the unlock button but if the electronics don't work then that would be a dead end. Is there an option to get the hood open somehow, cause then I could charge the battery.

Which brings me to question 2, charging the battery, any pitfalls? disconnect it? I do have a thing plugged in the OBD port to keep the engine in 8 cylinder mode which I suspect is the voltage draw.

Any suggestions short of a brick from 8' would be appreciated. Cheaper the better as all nickels are for the mortgage.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just noticed my line there at the bottom is my Duramax, the vehicle with the dead battery is an 2018 High Country.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update, got in , via spare key. So I hooked up a trickle charger and instead of the light being red, it is flashing red.
 

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Well I let the trickle charger run all night, still flashing this morning. I had read where sometime they do that and then come out of it, didn't happen like that. So I grabbed a marine battery and checked it's charge, 12.15v. Checked the battery in the vehicle, 1.93v, oooff. So I used jumper cables to connect the marine battery to the vehicle battery. Did you know that will set the alarm off, luckily just putting the key in the ignition shuts that off or the neighbors might have started throwing rocks and feces. So then I hooked the trickle charger up to the marine battery and going to let that go for a while. Hope I didn't ruin that battery. In hindsight I had left the GPS plugged in along with the OBD port device, I don't think I have driven in like 3 weeks, live and learn. Do you think that battery will recover?
 

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It is safest to disconnect either your positive terminals (my choice) or negative to both batteries. Charge each of them separately so you can accurately test the results. Check with a load tester if you have one. They are cheap, $25 or less. No they're not as good as a carbon pile tester, but muh better than guessing. The longer an uncharged battery stays that way, the more likely it will be negatively affected. If your battery is down significantly, do not use a trickle charger. Will your battery recover? Only time will tell.

I had a friend who had a GRP 29 battery in his travel trailer and it was about 8 months old, but was always down on charge. He was going to get a new one. I told him I'd pay him the core charge if he would let me keep the battery and he agreed. I put the battery on a charger for weeks (not sure how long it was) and most every day, the charger would say it was fully charged, and I removed the charger for another day and retested, and it would be won some. So, I charged again, and again and again. Eventually it would loose only a little and I used the battery in my trailer for 3 more years. But it took a lot of re-charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If it didn't have all the crap mounted on top I likely would have disconnected it. Only one battery as it is a gasser (6.2). It is charging now, see how it turns out. Don't have a load tester. If I get it to start I will move the trickle charger to my Duramax in case I have to run to buy a battery, really didn't need this cost. Haven't worked for over 2 months and things are looking bleak. Might have to sell both.
 

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If it didn't have all the crap mounted on top I likely would have disconnected it. Only one battery as it is a gasser (6.2). It is charging now, see how it turns out. Don't have a load tester. If I get it to start I will move the trickle charger to my Duramax in case I have to run to buy a battery, really didn't need this cost. Haven't worked for over 2 months and things are looking bleak. Might have to sell both.
Take that battery down to the local auto parts store and ask them to load test it.
(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Might have to do that, I tried to start it a bit ago and no go yet, I will check again in the morning. Found my Duramax to be dead too, guess I will have to find a key or break into that somehow, as the main key is in the cupholder.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
to be clear, I disconnected the trickle charger and the marine battery to try it.... could hook up my bigger charger (10 amp I think) with a 50 amp boost feature and see if I can make her run.
 

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I'm assuming it didn't freeze since its been sitting? A dead battery will easily freeze and If it did that does things like warps the plates and shorts them so you end up with dead cells.

You could also try having the charger connected while both batteries are connected. That is often how you are supposed to do AGM and gel batteries if you kill em. The marine one should do most of the work but then the charger should be able to take over and bring them both up. If its a 'smart' charger it may be too smart to actually work like the trickle charger was. I would not bother with the 50 amp boost. If its a 10 amp charger the 50 amp won't likely be able to deliver 50 amps for more than maybe 30 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have the marine battery, which was at 12.15v sitting on the ground beside the vehicle with jumper cables to the vehicle battery and the trickle charger hooked to the marine battery. I don't think it froze, been fairly spring like.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well the trickle charger was still red today about noon, 12.36 volts. Started the vehicle, looks to be charging. Info screen had me run the drivers window down and up. Letting it run for an hour, then shut it off and restart, then let it sit for an hour and restart. There is a part of the drivers info center (lower left corner) that says CAL, not sure what that is all about, might have to have dealer reset something perhaps, any ideas?


Moving on to next project, 06 Duramax, dead batterys, key locked inside. Currently searching for spare key. Have seen references that you can put power to the vehicle in order to run the door locks, two versions 1. put power to the trailer plug- I assume the aux power connection that I think is the center spade. 2. get underneath, put a jump cable on the starter power post other jumper to frame and hook up the spare battery.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Oof, so the gasser restarted fine, letting it sit for an hour. The Duramax..... ooof, so no luck finding the key. decided to hook a lightweight jumper wire to starter. i think it was the smaller post on the starter but I could not see real well. so hooked this jumper, probable 10 guage or 12 gauge, maybe 5 feet long from the starter to the marine battery and a full size jumper cable to the frame. crawled out and try to unlock the vehicle. go around to unplug jumpers, eek, smoking and melting. WTF. turns out a jumper on the battery had a red wire on the negative and while laying under the truck I hooked the damn things up backwards. So now my little jumper is fried, dammit. So I hooked up the right way and hit the button, door unlocks. Take jumpers off, hook up spare battery and trickle charge under the hood. So wonder what all is fried. FML. Need a beer.
 

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Oof, so the gasser restarted fine, letting it sit for an hour. The Duramax..... ooof, so no luck finding the key. decided to hook a lightweight jumper wire to starter. i think it was the smaller post on the starter but I could not see real well. so hooked this jumper, probable 10 guage or 12 gauge, maybe 5 feet long from the starter to the marine battery and a full size jumper cable to the frame. crawled out and try to unlock the vehicle. go around to unplug jumpers, eek, smoking and melting. WTF. turns out a jumper on the battery had a red wire on the negative and while laying under the truck I hooked the damn things up backwards. So now my little jumper is fried, dammit. So I hooked up the right way and hit the button, door unlocks. Take jumpers off, hook up spare battery and trickle charge under the hood. So wonder what all is fried. FML. Need a beer.
Go through the fuses and make sure they are all good
 

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I’d replace the battery’s. When they get deeply discharged the way you’ve described, the battery is damaged and will not hold a full charge. For example if your battery is rated at 800 CCA’s, it’ll be much lower than that, prolly in the low 600s if not lower. If you want to find what killed the battery, I’d suggest you do a parasitic draw test. What it will tell you is how much power is being drawn from your battery whenever the vehicle is not running. There will be some amp draw because of alarm systems and memory functions for the radio and pcm. But that amp draw would be in milliamp range.
 

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The negative wire is always the first to disconnect on a battery, that way you can spot weld your wrench to the fender. :eyeroll:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I got lucky, tried trickle chargers on the Duramax batteries for awhile. Ended up putting jumper cables to my other pickup. Started, no codes, no apparent damages, better to be lucky than good like my granma used to say.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Been able to start it every few days, looks like I dodged a bullet. Now I need to find a buyer.
 
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