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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I like most of you on this forum saw this mod and wanted to try it myself. I followed what someone on here stated and did my bolts in stainless steal and they are 2" (inches) in length. I could not find stainless bolts so, I went with stainless wing nuts, which seem so far to work very well. I also did not use bolts but instead used cap screws. So here is how I did it;
I purchased 4 cap screws that are 3/8" X 2" that are course thread.
I also purchased 4 wing nuts that are 3/8" -16 that are course thread.
i also purchased 4 3/8" lock washers. All above are stainless!
I then disconnected both grounds then disconnected both positive wires.
I then took off all the extra plastic around the end of the connector that hooks up to the battery.(sorry no pic of that)
I then placed the wing nut all the way on the cap screw with the lock washer following it.
I then placed the battery cables on after the lock washer.
I then started to screw the cap screw onto the battery with everything above attached.
I fingered tightened the cap screw on.
I then tightened on the wing nut against the cable, lock washer, and against the battery, also finger tight with a litle extra grunt.
The vehicle know seems to start better, pictures to follow.
While I was working on the battery I went ahead and pulled out the snorkle out of the fendar and cleaned everything up!
 

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Excellent work! Looks even better than my setup!

Rob :)
 

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Sh!t if i did that id be welding batteries all the time.....

Whats this for? jumper calbes? or just staying tight?
 

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Me TOO!! I just get battery's that have old style post on top too, that give's me a place to hook up jumpers and other things, like kicken stereo.
 

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You really should shorten the posts, electrical short waiting to happen, (or slip some fuel line over the bolts) also the wire you have looks like its between the cable ends and the battery, if thats the case likely you will have a weak/poor connection to the starter, the bolts in my opinion really dont need to be stainless, just slather some di-electric grease or plain old wheel bearing grease over the terminals and they will not corrode again.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Attempt!

I did the 2" and stainless because someone on here stated they wish they had, so I figured why not. I was a cheap mod/update/fix for my truck anyways. Before the fix I was at or below 12V on the dash guage, after it stayed right at 14V. i checked the batts and alt after the mod and both batts were at 12.39V with the truck off. With it on they were at 14.12V and alt was at 14.39V.
The wire that someone asked about goes to something, I was only home for a couple of days and did not have time to trace and fix. I also was on a very short and tight budget since it cost so much to fly home. When I return I will fix it and figure out what it goes to properly.
The individual with the idea about the fuel line cover, that is a good idea. I will try it, when I go home again! I am not to worried about a short. To cause a short the hood has to be opened, or something under the hood has to break. truck needs to be driven for both of those to happen!
Know that it is done I wish I would have gone with the shorter bolts, but the money has been spent and I am pleased with what I have.
Thanks for all the replys!
 

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I'm really interested in doing this battery mod, but I am concerned about using steel bolts (or cap screws). Most of the aftermarket side-terminal battery bolts are either copper or lead.

Are the steel bolts just as good for conducting electricity as copper or lead connectors?

Jon
 

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I'm really interested in doing this battery mod, but I am concerned about using steel bolts (or cap screws). Most of the aftermarket side-terminal battery bolts are either copper or lead.

Are the steel bolts just as good for conducting electricity as copper or lead connectors?

Jon
You are only using a short portion of the bolt. At any rate, the tightness is the most important. The bolt is tighter than the regular side battery terminal.
 

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I'm really interested in doing this battery mod, but I am concerned about using steel bolts (or cap screws). Most of the aftermarket side-terminal battery bolts are either copper or lead.

Are the steel bolts just as good for conducting electricity as copper or lead connectors?

Jon
The factory bolts look like steel or alloy? not anything special.
 

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I've used stainless on a boat installation, and on the Suburban, works fine. Steel will work just as well, I just like the idea of never having corrosion on the stainless.

Dieselcash, that looks good! When you get back you could just cut off the cap screws at the end of the threads, then you'll have the right length and could remove the wingnuts if you want to without having to remove the studs from the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Dave001,
Thanks, That is a good idea will have to look into that when I get back.
Which I can not wait! i have less than a year and I will be on American soil, atleast for a couple of months!
 

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...Are the steel bolts just as good for conducting electricity as copper or lead connectors?

Jon
I am going to do a version of this mod to my truck tonight, so I am reading this with interest.

The whole idea of the bolt is to clamp the cable terminal to the battery terminal with a good solid connection, so you are not (shouldn't be anyway) using the bolt to pass any current. Theoretically, the bolts could be made of plastic or other non-conducting material if it were strong enough to provide a good clamp load.

Regards,
 

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The whole idea of the bolt is to clamp the cable terminal to the battery terminal with a good solid connection, so you are not (shouldn't be anyway) using the bolt to pass any current. Theoretically, the bolts could be made of plastic or other non-conducting material if it were strong enough to provide a good clamp load.
I don't agree. Since the metal nut/washer that contacts the battery cable eye on the back side is tensioned by the metal bolt which screws into the battery terminal, this bolt/nut/washer is an important part of the conductor.
 

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I agree. Under ideal conditions, the bolt's material may not be of concern, but these connections are not in a sealed enviroment. They our out in THE enviroment. There will be corrosion, dirt, and contamination. The bolt adds extra contact points. If it was in a sealed container, it wouldn't be necessary, but then modifying it wouldn't be necessary either.
 

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The whole idea of the bolt is to clamp the cable terminal to the battery terminal with a good solid connection, so you are not (shouldn't be anyway) using the bolt to pass any current.
I'm with Goldsburg all the way on his statement. The bolt/nut/washer combo IS an important part of the connection, but NOT of the conductor. The conduction is from the battery through the lug(s) to the wire. The bolt/nut/washer combo is only there to insure that the connection is electrically and mechanically solid between the lug(s) and the battery. The connection from the lug to the wire is a whole different ballgame, btw. The ONLY time that the bolt/nut/washer combo should be conducting electricity is if there are jumper cables (or a short to ground).
That being said --- The choice of metals for the bolt/nut/washer combo is important because if there is a galvaniac reaction between them and the connector/battery they will corrode and loosen the connection that you're trying to maintain. Stainless Steel or Monel would, I believe, be the prefered metals.

Bottom line: If you're using the bolt to carry current you have something wrong. Putting a washer (for example) between the lug(s) and the battery, or between lugs would change this and shouldn't be done. Mixing metals (for example adding copper washers) should also be avoided for the same reason - CORROSION.

The above is from an Engineering standpoint. Personally, I think that since we're dealing with lead, sulphric acid, and copper in close proximity to each other the proper way to deal with these connections is really quite simple - Maintenance. Clean the connections as part of your regular preventitive maintenance program and you won't have problems with this simple system. The only problem that I have with GM's battery connections is the rubber coating on the lugs. They make maintenance more of a chore, and this may well be intentional. The automotive industry, in general, does not want you maintaining your own vehicle --- Doing so really cuts into their profit from the Service Department, which is where the REAL money is in a dealership.
 

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Ultimate Battery Mod

I had those bolt on jobbies too. I got rid of them plus the side terminal connectors when they turned to green mush. There is a special place in hell for the guy who designed those darn things!(probably the same guy who put the secondary fuel filter on the back of the intake 82-84:thankyou2)


The battery terminals pictured can be found at NAPA or a heavy equipment dealer. Never a problem in 5+ years.


The fuseblock is for lights, CB etc.
 

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Dielectric grease should be used to to prevent corrosion, and as said to about the point is not to have current pass through the bolt, electrolyisis can occur and weaken the metal until the bolt breaks off in the battery which is a bad scenario.
 
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