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Discussion Starter #1
Well it happened again. The positive/positive cables on the passenger side battery came loose.
This time it took out the gauge fuse and everything in the dash went dead.
Took the positive cable from the driver's side battery and cut the red protective rubber from around the metal part where it fits against the other positive cable.
It's nice and tight now and shouldn't surprise me again.
Easier on the alternator too.
 

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do some searching for battery mod, i have 3/8th bolts with nuts holding my cables on, and they will NEVER EVER come loose... SS also so they don't corode, 3buck mod that will never come loose from batts again... even if they are somewhat stripped out inside. Check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yup.
Exactly!
I did the same with the ss bolt except I have my cold air intake in the way so bolt length is limited. Still though, I don't think It'll come loose again. (Knock engine block :D )
 

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Cables don't corrode,batteries do!!!
 

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You need to do this...




I have had some problems with the connections to the batteries, especially the 'burb, with the connections coming loose regularly. I think the GM connections are for the birds. I took them out, replaced them with a combination of 3/8" coarse pitch steel bolts (sure, you can use stainless, but I used regular steel). I used them in lengths of 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" (for the double positives, etc.). I also put nuts AND lock washers on. Here's what I did.

1) Remove all battery side terminal bolts, grounds first, then positives.
2) Take wire brush and Dremel tool with wire brush and clean EVERYTHING until it shines.
3) Remove silly excess rubber hoods over cable ends
4) Put nuts and lock washers on bolts.
5) Place bolt assemblies into positive connectors, and then install them "finger-tight" into the batteries. If you want, you can snug them a little - I probably put them in about 10-12 inch-pounds.
6) Using two open end wrenches, hold the bolt head, and turn the nut/lock washer combo down, tightening the nut against the the connector, which in turn is pushing against the battery terminal. Snug them up well, probably about 10 FOOT-pounds. This is very snug.
7) I then coat the bolts with anti-corrosion gel from NAPA.

This works extremely well. They do NOT loosen, and the current flow is decidedly better. It's certainly never cranked faster. I also put a 4 ga cable from alternator to positive battery terminal, and replaced ALL grounds with 4 ga cables.

Sincerely,

Rob
 

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Cables do corrode! It comes from the battery but the cable will corrode. On my old blazer the cable corroded about 5 to 6 inches down from the battery. I had to replace the entire cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Rob (Turbo Tahoe):
Thanks for the suggestion.
I'm keeping it in mind when (not if) the cable comes loose again.
I've tried to trace the pos. wire from the alt. but it disappears below it.
I take it that somewhere along the way it connects to the pass. side bat. terminal.
I'm going to have to try the 4 gauge wire deal.
 

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Hey Rob (Turbo Tahoe):
Thanks for the suggestion.
I'm keeping it in mind when (not if) the cable comes loose again.
I've tried to trace the pos. wire from the alt. but it disappears below it.
I take it that somewhere along the way it connects to the pass. side bat. terminal.
I'm going to have to try the 4 gauge wire deal.
Hey, don't give up so easily! The positive wire doesn't just 'disappear' - it connects to the positive terminal of the battery - and there is a fusible link on the line ... it's black, it has a fusible link... I'm sure if you looked hard you could figure it out!

Anyway, you don't have to remove the original wire. Just put a 4 ga on parallel. If you are a little squeamish, and want to do something safer, then put a big fuse (perhaps a wafer fuse) in line near the battery. Right now, I have the 4 ga wire going directly to the battery, but unless someone (that would be ME) is careless with a metal tool, I really don't see how we'd get a short in there...

Also, the terminal mod is literally only a couple of bucks. I think that EVERYONE should be doing the mod. It is cheap and definitely ELIMINATES the terminal problem. In fact I like it better than top post batteries, as it has less of a corrosion problem, and you have nice bolts to grab onto for jump starting if you want. Using flat washer and lock washers ensures NOTHING MOVES unless you want it to!

Best mod - bang for buck - I ever did to the electrical system.

Rob :)

P.S. AND AND AND... you do NOT want to experience the battery cables coming loose. If it is the positive cable coming loose or falling off, then it is STILL connected via the crossover cable to the other battery - you could have a lot of sparking and a BIG disaster on your hands if that happens! I did BOTH Tahoe and Burb within 30-40 minutes, and that was taking my time! Just do it! :)
 

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The alt cable usually goes to the nearest battery. In mine, it goes to the driver side battery. You can trace it very easy unless it goes to the farther battery.

At any rate, it looks like you may want to replace at least the pos to pos battery cable if it has not been replaced before. Those cable can corrode inside and you don't even know it. Don't ask me how I found out.

If you replace it, just get as big of cable as you can. I am more leaning towards 2 ga. I have one of the local alternator/starter shop builds it for me. It is a little more expensive but it is quality and it is about the same price as the smaller OE cables. Some people here uses 0 or 1/0 gauge. It is true you can double up on the cable.

Cables in this truck are so important so you may want to work a little bit more carefully and don't give up so easily. Clean up all the connectors, put the Dielectric Grease in all connector. The connector that Rob suggested for the battery is actually very important and cheap solution for this type of battery. The good news is that you just have to do this once, well you have to check it once in a while but it is solid solution. Otherwise, this problem will haunt you all the time, again don't ask me how I found out.
 

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You need to do this...




I have had some problems with the connections to the batteries, especially the 'burb, with the connections coming loose regularly. I think the GM connections are for the birds. I took them out, replaced them with a combination of 3/8" coarse pitch steel bolts (sure, you can use stainless, but I used regular steel). I used them in lengths of 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" (for the double positives, etc.). I also put nuts AND lock washers on. Here's what I did.

1) Remove all battery side terminal bolts, grounds first, then positives.
2) Take wire brush and Dremel tool with wire brush and clean EVERYTHING until it shines.
3) Remove silly excess rubber hoods over cable ends
4) Put nuts and lock washers on bolts.
5) Place bolt assemblies into positive connectors, and then install them "finger-tight" into the batteries. If you want, you can snug them a little - I probably put them in about 10-12 inch-pounds.
6) Using two open end wrenches, hold the bolt head, and turn the nut/lock washer combo down, tightening the nut against the the connector, which in turn is pushing against the battery terminal. Snug them up well, probably about 10 FOOT-pounds. This is very snug.
7) I then coat the bolts with anti-corrosion gel from NAPA.

This works extremely well. They do NOT loosen, and the current flow is decidedly better. It's certainly never cranked faster. I also put a 4 ga cable from alternator to positive battery terminal, and replaced ALL grounds with 4 ga cables.

Sincerely,

Rob
NICE!
 

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I did the mod and also slid a piece of heater hose over the bolts so there's less chance of an accidental short. I've always hated side terminal batteries until I ran across this mod.
 
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I got tired of those side post batteries so went out and bought ALL new cabling and top post batteries. Truck turns over faster than ever now.
 
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