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Discussion Starter #1
My new truck has the turn over ball in it. I have never used a Companion hitch, how easy does it remove from the truck. My other truck had a Curt and rail so you all know you just pulled 4 pins and remove. What about the B&W, I know a lot of you guys probably have them???
 

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The companion hitch comes in 2 pieces, the base and the head. Pull a few pins and the head detaches from the base. Remove the top bolt on the 'stinger' and loosen the 4 u-bolts on the 'stinger' and the base lifts out. I remove the stinger after the Companion has been removed. Very easy to remove and each piece of the Companion isn't too heavy. I believe shipping weight is about 90 lbs total.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So alot more than pulling 4 pins on the Reese with rails. I have the B&W turn over in there now, but wow the companion is a lot more than I can get a Reese for and seems I takes more to remove. I will remove/install alot
 

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The companions are a first class hitch.
 

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If you consider loosening/ tightening 5 bolts a lot more work than pulling 4 pins, I guess you are right. I can have mine in or out in less than 5 minutes. Also no rails in box! And it has a very quick and easy trailer latch, I don't know if the reese is as slick for hookup.
 

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I have a signature series from reese, turn 4 cams 1/4 turn and lift out the hitch. Other then the 1/4 turn, nothing to loosen, tighten, or adjust (once you set it up the first time).
I have mine padlocked (the cams on each side), and it takes longer fumbling with keys then removing the hitch. 5 minutes is with the engine crane if I am by myself - give me a teenager, (and the correct key) and it is under a minute either way. The rails are under the bed, just 4 "pucks" are exposed when it is out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yea I take mine out to offen to have to mess with teenage or crane because of weight. I store my camper at the campground, but I carry golf carts every trip. So every time we go camping usually twice a month, I have to remove and install hitch 2 time in the weekend. I like the look of the B&W but don't wanna have to have a wrench in my pocket when I get there. I was hoping it removed easier. I don't understand, what are you un-bolting and where?
 

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If you leave the camper at the site, why do you need to install the hitch each weekend? To moved it around?

Is your golf cart hauler a 5th wheel?

The companion is pretty slick. Takes a few mins with a wrench or ratchet to undo the 4 u-bolts and the single draw down bolt. It comes off in two pieces so it's easy for one guy to take it in and out.

Consider that you'll probably have to remove the B&W under bed gooseneck hitch to install any other 5th wheel hitch, so you'll likely end up with a big hole in the bed if you go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yea sorry I guess I should have said the camper is stored at the campground in a have to move it on-site when I get there
 

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My old truck had the Reese and my new one has the Companion. The companion is a better hitch. Its solid and doesnt rattle like the reese did. Also its nice to have the flat bed without the rails in your way. Taking the hitch out isnt a big deal at all. I keep a socket and ratchet in my seat pocket behind the drivers seat at all times. Its not as bad as it sounds.
 

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I have the new B and W companion 3500 only one draw down bolt now I can take it out in under a minute myself very easy I love and it's 20,000 pounds now..
 

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I talked to B&W yesterday. He advised to just loosen the top cinch down bolt then pull the handle under the bed to release the hitch.
Take out the post with the hitch
 

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I have the new B and W companion 3500 only one draw down bolt now I can take it out in under a minute myself very easy I love and it's 20,000 pounds now..
I saw their new design.

I'll likely take a hard look at them once I'm back in the market for one, but I'm slightly concerned to see that the new design has the "potential" to be less safe than the current design.

The reason I say that is due to the number of failure points. The new one seems great because it only requires the loosening of a single bolt, but it also means they have a single point of failure that can cause the hitch to come loose. That's why it has the locking mechanism to keep that single draw down bolt from backing out at all. Any loosening of the draw down bolt is loosening of the hitch. The old design allowed for minor draw down bolt back out because the u-bolts were locking it into place as well.

With the old design, you had the draw down bolt and each of the two u-bolts. All three would have to fail in order for the hitch to actually come loose.

I'm sure the strength upgrade has to do with replacement of the u-bolts with the welded post housing (and partially for marketing reasons), but I'm worried it might be at the expense of some peace of mind.

The time consuming part for me is getting the tools out at all, not the turning of 4 additional nuts to secure it in place.

Just some food for thought...
 

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(Quote With the old design, you had the draw down bolt and each of the two u-bolts. All three would have to fail in order for the hitch to actually come loose.)

The old design u bolts were bolted to the base only thing holding it from coming out is the cinch bolt that is held by the gooseneck
The new design is the same thing cinch bolt holds it in the gooseneck the only difference is the peice that goes in the gooseneck is now bolted to base plate.
Both of them have the same thing ,if the cinch bolt breaks that would allow the hitch to come out of the gooseneck hitch under the wright conditions.
 

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(Quote With the old design, you had the draw down bolt and each of the two u-bolts. All three would have to fail in order for the hitch to actually come loose.)

The old design u bolts were bolted to the base only thing holding it from coming out is the cinch bolt that is held by the gooseneck
The new design is the same thing cinch bolt holds it in the gooseneck the only difference is the peice that goes in the gooseneck is now bolted to base plate.
Both of them have the same thing ,if the cinch bolt breaks that would allow the hitch to come out of the gooseneck hitch under the wright conditions.

It is true, they would both fail if the under-bed gooseneck locking pin failed.

However, I can go out right now, completely remove my draw down (cinch) bolt, and the hitch base would still be securely in the truck You wouldn't even be able to wiggle the base at all. That's because you draw it down to 40ft-lbs upon install, then secure with the u-bolts. So the u-bolts will hold the base in position even if the draw down is then removed.

The base itself is attached directly to the post which is held into the gooseneck ball receiver at 40ft-lbs.

I may be mistaken, but on the new ones, it appears to me that the post housing is bolted to the base, but the post itself can move up and down within that bolt on piece right? You bolt the post housing to the base, Set it in the receiver and pin it, then draw down the bolt on top. That would seem to indicate that the post can slide within the base-bolted housing.

If you remove the draw down bolt from the new model 3500 bases, can you lift the base off the post? Or does the post have a mechanism to keep it from sliding completely out the bottom of its housing? Even if it can't come completely out, it would no doubt loosen the base to the point you could move it around, and probably even pick it up an inch or so.
 

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Cool, thanks for the pics. I see how it works now. So in theory it might get "loose", but it would never actually come free from the truck... Great to know. Thanks for the follow up.
 
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