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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I started hearing this funny noise sounded like a rod knock.
Got out the stethoscope and poked around, couldn't find the cause of the noise.
About to give up and saw this crack in the bell housing.

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Started taking bolts out and this piece just about fell out.

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Been cracked for a while from what I can tell.
Looks like oxidation between the back engine plate and the transmission is the cause of the crack.
So after I got this chunk out I looked up in there and see the flexplate is cracked, that explains my
rod knock noise.

Haven't even had this truck a month, dumped all kinds of money into it on all new fuel lines.
What a piece. 馃が 馃が 馃が
 

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Ouch.. be sure to check your motor mounts as well
(y)
 

Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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9,818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Almost got the trans out, lot of work.
Also found out rear engine plate is broken by starter.
So far I need...
Bell housing
Flexplate
Rear engine plate.

Balls

You can see how far the corrosion pushed it back.

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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9,818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anybody know what size the allen head crank bolts are on the rear that hold the flexplate to the crank ?
 

Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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9,818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Answers' right here 14mm

 
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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't know I am going to torque the new flywheel bolts on a piece of cardboard on the ground.
Gonna take some serious grunting to get to the second 60 degrees from what I am reading.
I think best route is to pull the motor.

I have seen where they use some heat on the bolts to get them off, it's getting it back together that I am worried about.
 
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I don't know I am going to torque the new flywheel bolts on a piece of cardboard on the ground.
Gonna take some serious grunting to get to the second 60 degrees from what I am reading.
I think best route is to pull the motor.

I have seen where they use some heat on the bolts to get them off, it's getting it back together that I am worried about.
It might be best to pull the motor at this point (y)
 

Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It might be best to pull the motor at this point (y)
Looks like no choice, upper oil pan has to come off. There are 2 locating dowels from the oil pan to rear cover. Only way to get upper oil pan off is to either remove engine or front differential to allow room to get oil pan out.
Lower oil pan has to come off to get at bolts in upper pan.
What's that saying bleep rolls down hill.

Good news, I have spent a boat load of cash and either have all parts needed or going to get them later today. Seals, o-rings, housings, flexplate, rear cover.... only used piece I am getting is rear cover, everything else is new GM.
Fingers crossed I didn't jack anything up in the transmission.
 
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If your going to pull the engine might as well do headgaskets. if they have not been done yet. Yes, some rigs never have the headgaskets pop, but if they do it sure sucks doing them in the vehicle. Roll of the dice brother.
 

Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not doing head gaskets, it only has 137k on it.
Decided to pull the cab, I had the nose off and figured I was this far why not go all the way and fix everything.

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ouch.. be sure to check your motor mounts as well
(y)
Right side motor mount is ripped right off.

And it appears I have a problem with the flex plate....

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