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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I started hearing this funny noise sounded like a rod knock.
Got out the stethoscope and poked around, couldn't find the cause of the noise.
About to give up and saw this crack in the bell housing.

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Started taking bolts out and this piece just about fell out.

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Been cracked for a while from what I can tell.
Looks like oxidation between the back engine plate and the transmission is the cause of the crack.
So after I got this chunk out I looked up in there and see the flexplate is cracked, that explains my
rod knock noise.

Haven't even had this truck a month, dumped all kinds of money into it on all new fuel lines.
What a piece. 🤬 🤬 🤬
 

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Ouch.. be sure to check your motor mounts as well
(y)
 
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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Almost got the trans out, lot of work.
Also found out rear engine plate is broken by starter.
So far I need...
Bell housing
Flexplate
Rear engine plate.

Balls

You can see how far the corrosion pushed it back.

642416
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anybody know what size the allen head crank bolts are on the rear that hold the flexplate to the crank ?
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Answers' right here 14mm

 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't know I am going to torque the new flywheel bolts on a piece of cardboard on the ground.
Gonna take some serious grunting to get to the second 60 degrees from what I am reading.
I think best route is to pull the motor.

I have seen where they use some heat on the bolts to get them off, it's getting it back together that I am worried about.
 
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I don't know I am going to torque the new flywheel bolts on a piece of cardboard on the ground.
Gonna take some serious grunting to get to the second 60 degrees from what I am reading.
I think best route is to pull the motor.

I have seen where they use some heat on the bolts to get them off, it's getting it back together that I am worried about.
It might be best to pull the motor at this point (y)
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It might be best to pull the motor at this point (y)
Looks like no choice, upper oil pan has to come off. There are 2 locating dowels from the oil pan to rear cover. Only way to get upper oil pan off is to either remove engine or front differential to allow room to get oil pan out.
Lower oil pan has to come off to get at bolts in upper pan.
What's that saying bleep rolls down hill.

Good news, I have spent a boat load of cash and either have all parts needed or going to get them later today. Seals, o-rings, housings, flexplate, rear cover.... only used piece I am getting is rear cover, everything else is new GM.
Fingers crossed I didn't jack anything up in the transmission.
 

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If your going to pull the engine might as well do headgaskets. if they have not been done yet. Yes, some rigs never have the headgaskets pop, but if they do it sure sucks doing them in the vehicle. Roll of the dice brother.
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not doing head gaskets, it only has 137k on it.
Decided to pull the cab, I had the nose off and figured I was this far why not go all the way and fix everything.

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ouch.. be sure to check your motor mounts as well
(y)
Right side motor mount is ripped right off.

And it appears I have a problem with the flex plate....

642629
 
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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Turned into a full on restoration now, ordered some POR15.
Gonna get the frame done then fix the rust issues on the cab.

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Looks like the worst of the rust is around the leaf springs and hangers
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Anybody use a Lisle Manifold drill template?
I have 7 broken bolts to get out.



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At this point, pull the heads, do the gaskets & get the broken bolts out.
If not I would try this, the Pro-Maxx kits are better quality,
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tighter tolerances & higher quality drill bits, trust me this kit is what you want.
 
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If you have any amount of protrusion allowing a nut to slip over a broken stud, I would plug weld it and remove it with a light impact. Also soak with good penetrating oil. I have removed many broken bolts/studs this way. I will only drill and easy out when the broken bolt is broken well below the surface. It's imperative to attempt to remove the broken faster shortly after welding while it's hot. The aluminum head will expand more than the broken steel faster. Once you remove the broken stud, chase the threads with a clean oiled tap. Use shop air to clear out debris.
I like Just Tool'n's recommendation though.

Here is an example of removing a broken sub-flush bolt.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Bumper Automotive exterior

Using a mig welder, the broken bolt required slight build up. After a couple of "spot welds" a nut is centered over the bolt.
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Eyewear Automotive lighting

The nut should not be bigger than necessary as you want to only weld the bolt. at this point I turn up the heat a bit and plug weld the the nut.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Bicycle part Bumper

As soon as the cherry red dims to normal its time to remove it.
Hand Automotive tire Finger Wood Thumb

Again, you'll need to soak first and possibly gently grind the rusty end for a good weld. I have done this on many rusted broken exhaust studs while in the rig. If you have access to drill, you have access to weld.
Keep us posted and message me if you have further questions.
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Some progress, used the Lisle tool and got the new manifold on, took a couple of days working on this.

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This was a huge victory, getting this glow plug out. Took about 4 hours of work.
Couldn't get a drill to stay on center so I used a grinding tip and ground down till I saw threads, hooked the starter up and cranked it over till the plug flew out.

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you have any amount of protrusion allowing a nut to slip over a broken stud, I would plug weld it and remove it with a light impact. Also soak with good penetrating oil. I have removed many broken bolts/studs this way.
I heard this is the way to do it but I don't trust my welding skills.
 
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