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Discussion Starter #1
Here is the updated (10/06/03) "cheat sheet" summary on the more popular
set ups with 2 micron absolute filters.

I've updated my summary with new photos of Lone Eagle's (Frank Blum)
unique engine mounted Post OEM set up and also photos of his post
OEM filter cut open.

I have also moved my Post-OEM mounted filter assembly from under
the airbox and have mounted it under the truck on the frame rail.

We still have not determined whether we get better filtering
results mounting the filters in a pre or post OEM location. We'll
need more testing and getting accurate samples to accomplish that.
At this point in time, check out the results below in the paragraph....
Field Tested Filtration results & Comparisons:

Many thanks to OC_DMAX for compiling all the data from the postings on TDP.
Thanks to jbplock for hosting the results which can be viewed as a PDF file:
http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO/OC_Dmax.pdf

To understand the ISO codes check out the information at:
http://www.edm-mechatronics.com/iso_table.htm

Field Tested Filtration results & Comparisons:
abear's (megafilter w/lift pump) results now hold the record for the >2um ISO code at 12.

The previous lowest level for >2um was 13 by OC_Dmax (Racor w/o lift pump) and
jbplock (FM100-30um, OEM and Baldwin BF7635 MegaFilter w/lift pump).

OC_Dmax’s Pre-OEM frame mounted Racor still holds the record for the >5um
and >15um ISO codes at 11 and 8 respectively..... and without using a lift pump!

Installation:
All easily installed, however a lift pump may be needed for the MEGA if installed
as a Post OEM filter. All can be installed as pre or post OEM fuel filters. Typically
the Post OEM filters are mounted under the hood and the Pre OEM filters under
the truck on the frame rail or near the fuel tank.

Cost:
Mega filter assembly..... $200 (filter replacements $40) + (cost of lift pump if Post OEM)
CAT & Racor filter assembly...... $130 (filter replacements $11 -$22)
Stanadyne FM100......$200 (filter replacements $12 -$13)

Water Separator with drain:
CAT filter assembly.... none
Racor filter assembly.........Yes (see thru bowl)
MEGA filter assembly..........Yes
Stanadyne FM100 ............Yes (see thru bowl)

Filter Heater:
CAT and MEGA filter assembly.... none
Racor filter assembly................ Optional
Stanadyne FM100 .................... Optional

Air Bleed for Priming:
Mega and CAT filter assembly....... YES
Stanadyne FM100 ........................ Yes
Racor filter assembly............ Need to install petcock

Mileage between servicing:
The 2 micron Post OEM Racor (R60) filter has been cut open (Lone Eagle)&(56Nomad)
It appears that they will be good for at maximum 25,000 miles when
serving as the secondary filter. The primary OEM filter should be changed at the
regular recommended mileage of 15,000 miles. Photos available at:
http://members.cruzio.com/~quailman/LoneEagleCut.jpg
http://members.cruzio.com/~quailman/LoneEaglePleat.jpg
http://members.cruzio.com/~quailman/OEM.Post.cut.jpg

The 2 micron Pre OEM Racor (R60) filter has been cut open (Sandman).
It appears that they will be good for at least 10,000 miles when serving as
the primary filter. Most likely the OEM filter in this set up will easily last
20,000 miles. All photos available at:
http://community.webshots.com/album/86589312OLYdBM

What is t
 

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I've got an early 2001 D/A with 36,000 miles. The truck runs flawlessly, but I'm concerned about injector life and am considering secondary fuel filtration. I'm interested in a turnkey (as opposed to DIY) installation. I need something 100% reliable with no requirement for periodic bleeding. Can I elicit some posts from satisfied/dissatisfied owners of the various systems? Thanks!


Rick T
 

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Rick,


this topic has been pretty well discussed. there are many solutions that work well. some were initially more trouble-prone than others, but all produce good results. a lot has to do with where you want the filter to sit (under the frame, by the engine, or inside the rear fender). i'm sure you'll get some replies. hopefully they will all be positive ones. one user here (also elsewhere) did a great write up of all the avail. choices. it was a good comparison. maybe he'll post it here if he is around.
 

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Rick - I'm with you, I'd like a turn-key kit. I do enough jerry-rigging and trips to the hardware store mid-job... There are lots of posts out there but finding a turn-key kit that doesn't require me to cut into the factory lines (pre-OEM) has been my criteria.


Phil B.
 

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Well in my case I went with the Cat setup Post OEM. I'd have some air issues early on, but have resolved them.


Anyhow my reasoning was the availability. I've got a large dealer that runs 5 days a week 6am to 12pm. Easy to get access to, plus elements are inexpensive 12 for short, 17 for large.


All of them work, and work better than stock. Pre OEM seems to be the 'fail safe' way to avoid the prime loss issues. As for the kits, the available ones allow Pre Or Post OEM and are well priced.


I would recommend the Cat(1st) because of availability, Racor (2nd) availbility once again and has a water seperator/fuel heater option, plus has been shown to be trouble free since it's rated to work both in a pressure and vacuum fuel system(but slightly harder to find because of backorders), Kennedy's Mega setup(3rd) it's an excellent design, but everytime I need filters for my truck(oil & trans) I end up having to order them, so they're a little harder to find in a pinch.


Now you should always keep a spare of both filters 'just in case'.
 

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Victory Red-


You mentioned you had air issues, but you resolved them... how?? Did you tilt the "unit" or was the filter not tight. I seem to be leaning more towards Post OEM, probably go with CAT as Racor seems to have the availability of Bilstiens right now... can't afford not to be able to get a replacement filter for weeks...


Bob
 

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I put a Racor r60t setup on the frame rail under the rear door of my crew cab... NEVER had trouble with air.... knock on wood.... and it has been flawless for almost 14K. Very simple setup....





I can runa 30 micron rock catcher, a 10 or a 2 micron filter in it....





Hope that helps
 

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I'm running a Racor 690R2 under the air filter box post OEM.
I'm guessing I got 8 or 9000 miles on it. No issues.
My first analysis did not come up good but I blew the sampling method.

Will do another.

I think it comes down to what you want as far as installability and filter cost/availability is concerned.

They all seem to be good units. Personally I think adding fuel filtration is an absolute must.
 

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After buying the Nicktane system to install 2500 miles away from Sacramento California, the only bump in the road was that we did not have the tool to disconnect the "quick connect" fuel line fittings, and had to order them from Sears.


After getting the proper tool (price, approx. $10) and some aggressive tugging to separate the original fuel line, we used the rubber fuel line supplied by Nicktane and just left the OEM fuel line in place in case for some reason we wanted to go back to original.


On separating the fuel lines, nothing came out of the fuel tank end, and no more than a few ounces from the engine end. We filled the CAT filter with fuel, spun it on, and started the truck without doing any bleeding of air, hoping for the best. The truck ran and continues to run fine.


The Nictane system came with everything needed, except for the aforementioned tool to disconnect the quick connect fuel lines.


I would suggest to Nick that for kits that will be home installed under the shade tree, he might offer, at an extra fee, to throw in the necessary tool in the package.
 

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I have about 1300 miles with the Nicktane CAT system w/o a problem. I like it because you don't have to cut factory lines and eliminate two of those loose QD fittings in the install process.


All of Nick's fittings are stainless steel. The filter is protected in the front from road debris by a 1/4 inch steelplate.


Replacemenrt filters are available everywhere and replacing the CAT in the upper rear wheel well is easy. You can reach it by crouching next to the truck.
 

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The Mega requires no cut lines in the pre or post configuration. You get new hose and can keep the one OEM you remove to return to stock. I have a Stanadyne (30 micron filter) on my lift pump, the OEM (5 micron) and finally the Mega (1 micron). I carry a spare of all 3 in my truck. The Mega kit have everything in it and due to it's location, you don't need the line disconnect tool. Don't get me wrong, I have a complete set.
I removed the tank to hardline QD piece to put in my Stanadyne/Lift pump assembly on the frame like many have just the filter. It can go back to stock at any time. It made a much bigger mess and there was not a complete kit for it. It was one of the many trips to the Depot projects. I really enjoyed it.
So, I guess my answer to the pre or post question was like that Dieon Sanders commercial, both. I installed the fuse to the lift pump where I can pull it at any time and check the restriction of the system. I do so every month and so far have seen no real change.


This all started with some clear line testing on my stock system and a pre/post OEM filter test. The line said there were visable bubbles and the fuel test said it was still dirty. I have neither issue now.
I believe adding any filter in any position is better than leaving it stock. I believe the lift pump will add longevity when set up correctly, but only time will tell.
 

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k1xv , could you please give the Sears part # for diconnecting the fuel line. Thanks, Mike.
 

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Sears
Lisle AC/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set
$9.99
Sears Item #00946337000
Mfr. Model #37000

take the part numbers, the employees at my store were idiots
 

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56Nomad,


I finally got my personal page somewhat back together so if space is an issue for you, you can delete and forward the post links to http://home.wi.rr.com/ocingamd. I've only got a few pics in place, but as time permits I'm updating. Thanks for the use of the space in the meantime though.


4x4,


If you followed the thread over at TDP, I did find that a slight tilt towards the clean side helps my situation. On real hot days i still get some air buildup causing a studder about 5 secs after startup but no stall. I've considered increasing the pitch slightly more to see if I can eliminate it all, but since I've only had one stall in several months it hasn't been a priority.


I also changed the OEM around 1500 miles ago and had a lot of air early on, but it has since diminished. Not perfect, but a piece of aluminum the thickness of a dime seemed to make a difference.


I initially spaced it to allow a little easier access to the bleeder plug. Took it out and it got worse. Put in back in and it got better. Weird, but hard to explain. Anyhow it's a heck of a lot cheaper than a lift pump.


I can't guarantee it'll work for you or anyone else, but it made my life better. I initially went to buy the Racor setup from my local dealer, but it was a 3 week lead time for the head. So up the road to a Cat dealer.


I've got 6500+ miles on it now, If I hit 10,000 before winter I'll swap it to the large one. With a little bit of planning you can use the large or the small under the airbox. RIght now I'm running the 750, but have a 749 waiting for it's day like Nick uses in his setup.
 

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DMAX Daddy had the right tool part number.


He is right, the employees at Sears know nothing beyond socket wrenches. I bought mine online from the Sears web site just to avoid the aggravation.
 

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Rick T


I've got the Nicktane kit (pre-OEM) - turnkey except the quick disconnect tool. I am happy with it and the provided instructions cover everything a do-it-yourselfer needs to know. Contact Nick (aka Diesel Power) and he'll fix you up
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It's almost time to be changing out my OEM and
Racor Post OEM 2 micron filter.......

Hoot, I'm giving serious consideration to moving my
Racor back under the frame as no one has been
able to come up with better filtration numbers.
<font color="red">http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO/OC_Dmax.xls</font>

I know all the good logical reasons why it might be
better to mount Post vs Pre.... but the hard data
pushes me toward the Pre-OEM mount. The only
down side is that I'll be replacing the frame mounted
filter at 10,000 miles. The peace of mind is worth it.

As you know, it is any easy switch for me....... been
there before
 

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56Nomad,


Bill (jbplock) has done a great job with the data, but I don't think we have enough repatitions to make a statistically significant conclusion.



At 50 bucks a throw, I doubt we ever will.
 

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NAPA has the Lisle AC/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set also. $10
 
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