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Okay, so, I purchased the subthump box for 2 10"'s thinking it would be a breeze to get a nice sounding stereo goin in my new truck. Boy was I wrong! In the past, it was as simple as going to an electronics store, buying the correct wire harness and deck kit, some wire connectors, electrical tape, etc... and spending an hour outside, taking apart the dash, drinking some suds, and wiring everything up.

So, I purchased my 2004 Silverado 2500HD Crew Cab Long bed a few months ago. The truck is equiped with the BOSE system, steering wheel controls, OnStar, rear radio controls, as well as an above head DVD Screen/Player. Like I said, I've always installed my own stuff so I felt this was a no brainer. Smack me for saying that...

I started off by going to Best Buy and buying a wire harness and dash kit for about $50. Went home, wired everything up, already had an aftermarket deck i was going to slap in. I got it all wired up, power wire for my amp ran thorugh the firewall, ground wires connected to the body, etc. I turned it on, everything was SUPER LOUD. I then looked at the harness package Best Buy had sold me and it shows for NON-BOSE applications.

All I could say was Censored

I took it back and started my research. Best Buy was no help, so I went to Circuit City. They told me that I would need some $160 wire harness, in order for my stuff to work correctly.

I have read many things about the PAC devices. It's said that ONLY the volume steering wheel controls will work. I want to be able to use my Gas button, mileage button, OnStar, Tuning, etc. I'm currently running off the factory 6 disk head unit, and none of the additional audio equipment is hooked up in my truck (It's basically stock righ now) since I'm stuck trying to figure out what I need to do.

So:

1.) What device do I need to buy?
2.) Where do I purchase said device from?
3.) What will/will not work after the device is installed?
 

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i believe you need a PAC deal for the onstar and everything to work
 

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I turned it on, everything was SUPER LOUD. I then looked at the harness package Best Buy had sold me and it shows for NON-BOSE applications.

All I could say was Censored
Cars are so proprietory today in how things work that Circuit City, Best Buy etc... are all CLUELESS! Guys even come on this form asking questions about installs that pro stereo shops have screwed up...

I dont mean that as a derogatory remark towards Ciruit City and pro stereo shops...they just dont know, even tho they should. NOT ALL OEM stereos operate in the same way!! Take the lux Bose system for example...how it operates by varying volume thru a data bus signal!?? Id hate to see what Circuit City does trying to rig up aftermarket subs in an Escalade. I also dont mean any offence towards you also...Circuit City should have directed you towards the correct adapter

OK :rant: over...

SO what they did was sell you an adapter that was meant for OEM systems that have the speaker amplifier integrated into the head unit. SO the "audio outputs" from the head unit are at a powered level and are wired DIRECTLY to the speakers. Because speakers need to be amplified in some manner. Direct line level audio from a CD player, radio etc is not powerful enough to drive a speaker. BUT the Bose systems do NOT have an amp in the head unit. The Bose system has low level outputs on the head unit. The head unit sends audio out at a low level to the Bose amplifier which is located under the center console. From there, teh Bose amp takes the low level signals and makes them more powerful, it amps them up to a level that is powerful enough to drive speakers. Then the amp sends out those powered signals to the speakers.

The Bose amp is meant to RECEIVE LOW level audio signals and then magnify those signals. So if you give it signals that are already amplified, its like trying to jump start a 12 volt car with a 24 volt military vehicle. You just end up with an overly amped mess.

Which is what that adapter did. That aftermarket head unit has an internal amplifier with SPEAKER (high) level outputs. So that harness that you bought took those SPEAKER level outputs from teh aftermarket head unit and tried to feed them to the amp, which is ONLY designed to take LOW level inputs. Hopefully you didnt toast the amp...

If you MUST run an aftermarket head unit, you need to wire up the audio wires in the stock head unit harness to the "RCA LOW LEVEL" outputs of the aftermarket head unit. NOT the "speaker outputs".

If you just want to add subs heres what I reccomend that will sound good (DP member "C.A.P." has this setup in his truck and he is a big audio guy who knows his pro audio gear, and he says it sounds good and I defiently beelive him)

1. Put the stock head unit back in.
2. Buy an aftermarket amplifer and hook that up/use it to power the two subwoofers.
3. Disconnect the stock Bose subwoofer to eliminate phase issues.
4. Hook the aftermarket subs/amps to the stock head unit using a "PAC AOEM-GM24" adapter. Its on ebay for maybe 40 bucks.

The PAC adapter hooks inline with the stock head unit and has a box on it that extracts the LOW level audio signal and gives it out in the form of standard RCA plugs (the red/white audio plugs). Then you can take RCA cables and run them from the PAC box to the aftermarket amp/subs. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any questions...

---Ben
 

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Basically it will look like this....


BOSE HEAD UNIT--->PAC AOEMGM24--->BOSE AMP--->BOSE SPEAKERS
......................................I
......................................I--->AFTERMARKET AMP--->AFTERMARKET SUBS
 

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Basically it will look like this....


BOSE RADIO->PAC AOEMGM24->BOSE AMP-->BOSE SPEAKERS
................................I
................................I-->AFTERMARKET AMP-->AFTERMARKET SUBS
Nice drawing... pretty simple.
 

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thanks for adding the color Doug!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ben, thanks a million. I just ordered the PAC AOEM-GM24 on eBay, so I'll definitely install it as soon as it shows up and get back to you.

Thanks for the detailed explanation above. If I ever made it up to CT, I'd definitely buy you a beer or two, or three...
 

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Ben, thanks a million. I just ordered the PAC AOEM-GM24 on eBay, so I'll definitely install it as soon as it shows up and get back to you.

Thanks for the detailed explanation above. If I ever made it up to CT, I'd definitely buy you a beer or two, or three...
uh-oh!!! Im only 18):h

Glad I could help out! Let us know how it sounds and if you have any other questions or get stuck during the install dont hesitate to email or PM me.

--Ben
 

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what does he have to do to get it to work with the deck that he bought
 

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if some one wanted to could you (this is what i plan on doing) get the PAC adaptors that you need to keep your steering wheel buttons working install the deck of your choice have and amp for your subs mono amp and a amp for your doors a 4 channel amp run your rca cables to the amps from the deck run all the power and ground wires to the amps. then just run speaker wire to all four doors and doing it that way would bypass the bose amp and everything but still keep your steering wheel buttons right
 

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yes, but I dont know where you would mount the IR emmitter for the PAC steering wheel control module. You ahve to point it right at the front of the radio. like mount it in the center console somewhere. Its easier to keep the stock head unit...
 

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In Gm trucks when we used to do the ir emitter it was run behind the radio and put just in front of the radio,its hard to explain, Only noticable when you knew it was there. I always hated it but no customers ever noticed.

Oh and in my area the chain of installers usually went
Circuit City>>>Bestbuy or Soundtrack>>>Quality Auto sound>>>Car Toys>>>Private custom shops

So if you want to learn start at CC, From Soundtrack up usually required at least basic MECP certification. Just somthing to keep in mind on who is messing with your $50G truck.

***Disclaimer- Not to say if you work at Best Buy or a chain you suck, I know a custom guy who works there PT who is the [email protected]#. Thats just what Denvers pecking order is/
 

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hmmmmm I really dont know what the PLUS is... :confused:

Maybe one of the mods could shed some light on it?

txmikem--- go with the stock head unit/PAC AOEM-GM24 setup!! It looks totally stock (IMO I like the stock look better but thats just me) and it will sound great! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
txmikem--- go with the stock head unit/PAC AOEM-GM24 setup!! It looks totally stock (IMO I like the stock look better but thats just me) and it will sound great! :D
I originally purchased a new Alpine from Best Buy, which was when I bought the harness that didn't work...

I returned EVERYTHING once I found out, and the only thing I have now is my old head unit, which I was going to install if I had to. I REALLY like the factory head unit, especially because of the steering wheel controls and 6 disk CD changer and the compatibility. So, that's my plan Ben.. Stick with the factory look, continue to use the factory Bose door speakers, but, add my own Amp and Subs underneith the rear seat. I'm just looking for good Bass, with the mids and highs to match. As for the PAC AOEM-GM24, I'm guessing the harness comes with decent instructions on what color goes where, and how it plugs up. If I do have problems, I'll definitely post up pictures and questions. Thanks again.
 

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Yup, eevrythings included with teh PAC adapter. Just make sure to disconnect the factory Bose sub so you dont get phase cancellation issues...

--ben
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just make sure to disconnect the factory Bose sub so you dont get phase cancellation issues...--ben
Hmmm.. Factory Bose sub huh? Where might this be? I didn't know I had a factory Bose sub. If so, where the heck is it? Is it just a wire i'm disconnecting? I guess now is the time to find out all I can, so I know exactly what to do when it comes in. That way, i'm not sitting around with my finger up my Censored and screaming :help2:
 
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